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1996 Aurora Strange Problem


scoopjl
03-08-2004, 12:21 PM
When I turn the ignition off and open the driver door, the security light comes on along with the chiming bell. When the door is closed the light and bell goes off. The problem is that the headlights will not turn off. The only way is to disconnect the battery. Help. I can't find anything in the manual about this or in any forums anywhere.

bigpun
03-08-2004, 12:23 PM
there is a timer on your lights and as for the security light coming on it is supposed to do that shitface

scoopjl
03-08-2004, 12:38 PM
there is a timer on your lights and as for the security light coming on it is supposed to do that shitface
nice language. this answer shows you don't know what you are taking about.

tjm
03-08-2004, 12:47 PM
I had a similar "headlights won't turn off" issue when I first baught my Aurora. The dealer had it for a week and returned it to me with the same problem returning a few days later. (I was disconnecting the headlights under the dash) Turns out that whenever I used the tilt wheel things got better or worse. I told then to replace the headlight switch and associated wiring and the prob was gone.

bigpun
03-08-2004, 04:44 PM
i dont know what i am talking about talking not taking talking l l l talk talll lll keep that in mind buddy

semisendiz
03-08-2004, 05:14 PM
I had the same problem, and had to do the same: connect and disconnect every time. That is, unitl went to dealer for a diagnostic; turned out to be the headlamp switch (at the steering wheel), they said it would cost about $600 to fix. That's when I decided to go to the junk yard, buy a used steering column from a 1995 for $125 (they would not sell the switch only) and changed it myself. Worked perfectly. Now, I'm working on a couple more problems to fix.

jim56
03-08-2004, 05:53 PM
i dont know what i am talking about talking not taking talking l l l talk talll lll keep that in mind buddy
Cant they ban this idiot?

RobertHammen
03-08-2004, 05:57 PM
I had the same issue. The problem is too much grease on the multi-function switch. You can try taking it apart and cleaning it, or you can just get a new/used switch (it's not cheap). Other symptoms include a relay going "click-click-click-click" all of the time (this killed my battery on my '98 when this happened)...

--Robert

thumpin455
04-19-2004, 01:25 AM
Yes I too can confirm that the multifunction headlight switch is what makes the headlights randomly flash back on and off after the car is turned off. The relays inside the Lamp Control Module box located under the left side of the dash will also make a random click noise that coincides with the random flashing of the lights. In my case and most others, you will find that the Lamp Control Module is not the problem and niether is the twilight sentinel adjustment control. Again, the multifunction switch seems to be the common culprit. I did a search here and on a couple of the other Aurora forums and everyone seemed to cure their flashing lights/stuck on syndrome by replacing the multifunction switch which cost over $500 for a dealer to do it. I also found a few posts by Hammen and others that made reference to too much grease in the rotating part of the switch where the contacts are housed. I found another post about using contact cleaner with good results and this is what I did to cure my problem today.

Pardon me for being longwinded but here is how I saved over $500 and you can do it too. You will need to gain access to the rotating contact part of the switch that is hidden under the steering wheel covers but you will not have to remove the switch in order to clean it. You will need to buy a can of electrical contact cleaner and a can of compressed air like you use for keyboards. Both can be had at Radio Shack and both come with the red extension tube that fits the spray nozzle. First move the seat all the way back, then disconnect the battery, remove the sound deadeners, remove the two 10mm bolts at bottom of knee bolster, use your fingertips to pry the sentinel/dimmer assembly and trunk/fuel door release assembly from dash (leave harnesses connected and let dangle) to expose the remaining two 10mm bolts securing knee bolster, remove knee bolster, remove 10 amp fuse for Air Bag, disconnect SIR (air bag) yellow connector at lower left corner behind ins panel, tilt wheel up, use 3/16 or 5mm nutdriver to remove 3 screws securing steering wheel top cover (note that 1 screw is accessed thru the opening for the tilt lever while the other 2 are located on either side of the column closest to the lense/guages), remove 3 more of the same small tapping screws securing the lower steering wheel cover to column, remove black ring of text around ignition lock by pulling straight out, upper and lower covers can now be unsnapped and removed. With your left ear against the mirror control looking just forward of where the stalk goes to the column, you will see 5 tiny holes in a semi-circular pattern. When turning the headlamp switch you can see the contacts moving from hole to hole. Spray contact cleaner in the holes and immediately follow up with the compressed air can to flush out the contact cleaner. Move the headlamp switch rapidly thru all the detents and repeat several times with the contact cleaner followed by several bursts of compressed air to flush out the excess cleaner and dry. When finished, wait 30 minutes to make sure contacts are thoroughly dry then reconnect battery and test. Hopefully all is well and like me you just saved some major $

rodtice
04-19-2004, 11:06 AM
I had the same type of problem on a 95 Grand Am. Not wanting to buy a new switch I disassembled the switch to the very smallest spring, CAREFULL those springs in there really can cover the distance and get lost.

Emory clothed all of the corroded contacts, reassembled andrelubed with dielectric grease it has worked for the last 4 years since.

kev's 96 Aurora
04-19-2004, 05:02 PM
Something odd was happening to me also..if sentinal was above the snapped "min" position (guessing it means off) sometimes my parking lights wouldn't come on...when I move it all the way to the bottom where it clicks then lights are fine exept while driving sometimes everything blinks...I may have to do the cleaning also..plus the lights come on auto when there is still quite a bit of light out with no way to shut off..no I haven't read the manual fully..if there is something I'm missing please let me know.

chikita
05-14-2004, 08:12 PM
My 1996 Aurora (115k) did the wierd chime with the lights flashing and then lights not going off at all. The internet search I did brought up this website and eventually I found your posts. Using Thumpin455's very detailed instructions (wow, you are awesome) I was, to my extreme surprise, able to fix my own car. So it really does work, even for a woman. In reading the other posts, I have learned so much about my car, I think I might try to romp on it in first gear just to see what she will do!

dsatt12
05-15-2004, 05:59 AM
I think I might try to romp on it in first gear just to see what she will do!

Wallow around at the line line the overweight sow she is until the rpms come up and drink about 1/2 gallon of premium...

cmand
05-24-2004, 08:03 AM
A HUGE "Thank You" to thumpin455 for the step by step answer to the mysterious lights going on and off problem! My 1998 Aurora had identicle problem, we followed your directions, and all is fixed! Saved a lot of money with a little elbow grease! Thanks again!!!

radvra
05-26-2004, 09:39 AM
My 97 had the same problem...headlights stay on forever until you disconnect the battery. I took it to an Olds mechanic who replaced the left side switch assembly...wish I had known about this cleaning procedure...maybe next time! Part was $300+

JFGiles
06-26-2004, 09:36 PM
Ok, where so I start? I have a 1998 Aurora Autobahn and love it more than anything, I have had the car since late 1999 and it has been great, justhit 100k on Thursday. It appears that I have obtained that notorius headlamp problem. I followed the directions on cleaning the switch found in previous posts and after doping the repairs I thought I had it solved but a few hours later it started back up again. Does any body have any further advice on this problem? I found a post on another site and the reccomendation was to pull the gray #2 wire out of the LCM unit and leave it alone. Does this actually work? I have found the switch online from gmpartsdirect.com for $195.00 And I think that is probably the best way to go. Is this something I cando myself or is there something that I should stay away from. I have no problems with electrical work and have working knowledge of the steering column systems. I know that some of you out there are in the same boat or have been in the same boat before, so any information would be appreciated.

I also have access to the exploded views of all just about any vehicle and any parts subsection with part numbers and prices if anybody needs any help in the future with any of that type of information as I own an independent insurance auto appraisal firm.

thumpin455
06-27-2004, 09:50 AM
I'm the one who posted the step by step cleaning procedure under this same thread on 4-20-04. I would like too clarify a few things. The semi-circular hole pattern is about the diameter of a nickle. There will be five tiny holes at the 12:00, 2:00, 4:00, 5:00, and 6:00 o'clock positions. Use the Radio Shack #64-4315 Contact/Control Cleaner Lubricant and the Radio Shack #64-4351 Velocity Dust Remover Spray as your compressed air follow up. Both of these have the little red straw nozzle allowing you to spray directly into the 5 tiny holes on the switch at point blank range. Use towels and be very liberal with both. Spray cleaner into each hole several times while working the switch. Spray the compressed air into each hole while working the switch. Repeat 10 or 12 times and that should do it.

If your headlights continue to stick on after cleaning the switch then you will want to look at the only mechanicals inside the Lamp Control Module. The LCM box easily snaps appart by removing 4 phillips head screws. You will see 3 tiny coil relays on the circuit board. You will need a magnifying glass to inspect the contacts on each. What you may find is that one or more of these contacts have developed a build-up that has essentially closed off the gap. This build-up is similar to what happens on a set of ignition points in an old car except on a smaller scale. Like I say these contacts are tiny but you can use the tip of sharp xacto knife to knock off any high spots. They don't have to be perfectly smooth and flat, just move the contacts to make sure you've got a good click click action going on.

Sorry to get so long winded again.

dsatt12
06-27-2004, 09:41 PM
I think we'll all put up with a certain amount of verbosity if you're saving up from buying a $450 switch assy from the dealer...

RickyZ
06-28-2004, 05:57 AM
I'm the one who posted the step by step cleaning procedure under this same thread on 4-20-04. I would like too clarify a few things. The semi-circular hole pattern is about the diameter of a nickle. There will be five tiny holes at the 12:00, 2:00, 4:00, 5:00, and 6:00 o'clock positions. Use the Radio Shack #64-4315 Contact/Control Cleaner Lubricant and the Radio Shack #64-4351 Velocity Dust Remover Spray as your compressed air follow up. Both of these have the little red straw nozzle allowing you to spray directly into the 5 tiny holes on the switch at point blank range. Use towels and be very liberal with both. Spray cleaner into each hole several times while working the switch. Spray the compressed air into each hole while working the switch. Repeat 10 or 12 times and that should do it.

If your headlights continue to stick on after cleaning the switch then you will want to look at the only mechanicals inside the Lamp Control Module. The LCM box easily snaps appart by removing 4 phillips head screws. You will see 3 tiny coil relays on the circuit board. You will need a magnifying glass to inspect the contacts on each. What you may find is that one or more of these contacts have developed a build-up that has essentially closed off the gap. This build-up is similar to what happens on a set of ignition points in an old car except on a smaller scale. Like I say these contacts are tiny but you can use the tip of sharp xacto knife to knock off any high spots. They don't have to be perfectly smooth and flat, just move the contacts to make sure you've got a good click click action going on.

Sorry to get so long winded again.


Paul,
I performed and the problem went away. I only sprayed 3 times since your original procedure did not specify the exact amount of times. After reading the previous reply about the fellow having the problem go away then come back after a few hours, I hope that doesn't happen to me. I performed the procedure Sat morning and here it is Monday morning and still everything is good. Like I said too in my email to you, My access was very limited so my spraying was probably over more of an area than just isolated to the 5 contacts. Dunno what long term effects that may have???

robert m rottman
07-12-2004, 11:42 AM
A huge thank you to thumpin455 for your detailed instructions to fix this "96 Aurora strange problem" I had no problems following your detailed procedure this past Wednesday 7-7-04 and now my Aurora is OK. Running lights are not blinking on and off anymore, no more clicking of the relays in the black box under the dash. Many many thanks and may God bless you for sharing your knowledge with us all. One note to others is that this problem was intermittent for approximately one year before it became constant just last month. I had disconnected the black box (lamp module) under the dash a few times and the problem went away before they constantly did it and I found this fix on this forum. Thanks again......

Borealis
07-19-2004, 08:39 PM
OK...Help me out. It looks as though July '04 is the time for most all '98 Aurora's headlight systems to crash. j/k Thumpin455, I tried your suggestions...by the way, kudos on the instructions. Drove the car to work this a.m., only to find the battery DOA when I was ready to come home. No biggie, got a jump, and pulled the LCM to get home. I'm probably going to try cleaning the switch again as you instructed, and hopefully that will work. I noticed in one posting that someone talked about pulling a gray wire out of one of the LCM harness connections? Anybody know anything about this? Better yet...is there a way to do away w/ the LCM, as this module is only for the sentinel light function isn't it? Is it possible to pull the module and splice a couple of wires, and use the headlight switch in a manual function? I hate to mess too much, as I don't need a fried Aurora. Any instruction on removing the turn signal/headlight switch? Maybe I could do a more thorough job cleaning it w/ it removed. Any feedback would be greatly valued!
sd




Yes I too can confirm that the multifunction headlight switch is what makes the headlights randomly flash back on and off after the car is turned off. The relays inside the Lamp Control Module box located under the left side of the dash will also make a random click noise that coincides with the random flashing of the lights. In my case and most others, you will find that the Lamp Control Module is not the problem and niether is the twilight sentinel adjustment control. Again, the multifunction switch seems to be the common culprit. I did a search here and on a couple of the other Aurora forums and everyone seemed to cure their flashing lights/stuck on syndrome by replacing the multifunction switch which cost over $500 for a dealer to do it. I also found a few posts by Hammen and others that made reference to too much grease in the rotating part of the switch where the contacts are housed. I found another post about using contact cleaner with good results and this is what I did to cure my problem today.

Pardon me for being longwinded but here is how I saved over $500 and you can do it too. You will need to gain access to the rotating contact part of the switch that is hidden under the steering wheel covers but you will not have to remove the switch in order to clean it. You will need to buy a can of electrical contact cleaner and a can of compressed air like you use for keyboards. Both can be had at Radio Shack and both come with the red extension tube that fits the spray nozzle. First move the seat all the way back, then disconnect the battery, remove the sound deadeners, remove the two 10mm bolts at bottom of knee bolster, use your fingertips to pry the sentinel/dimmer assembly and trunk/fuel door release assembly from dash (leave harnesses connected and let dangle) to expose the remaining two 10mm bolts securing knee bolster, remove knee bolster, remove 10 amp fuse for Air Bag, disconnect SIR (air bag) yellow connector at lower left corner behind ins panel, tilt wheel up, use 3/16 or 5mm nutdriver to remove 3 screws securing steering wheel top cover (note that 1 screw is accessed thru the opening for the tilt lever while the other 2 are located on either side of the column closest to the lense/guages), remove 3 more of the same small tapping screws securing the lower steering wheel cover to column, remove black ring of text around ignition lock by pulling straight out, upper and lower covers can now be unsnapped and removed. With your left ear against the mirror control looking just forward of where the stalk goes to the column, you will see 5 tiny holes in a semi-circular pattern. When turning the headlamp switch you can see the contacts moving from hole to hole. Spray contact cleaner in the holes and immediately follow up with the compressed air can to flush out the contact cleaner. Move the headlamp switch rapidly thru all the detents and repeat several times with the contact cleaner followed by several bursts of compressed air to flush out the excess cleaner and dry. When finished, wait 30 minutes to make sure contacts are thoroughly dry then reconnect battery and test. Hopefully all is well and like me you just saved some major $

oldsmobuick
07-29-2004, 01:01 AM
YOU ROCK!!

Ok, I just finished the repair on my 99 Aurora with the clicking/flashing problem per your instructions. The hardest part was locating a 5mm nut driver, but once I did, WOW! I almost can't believe it worked! Thanks so much!!

Travisbrowning
09-02-2004, 09:55 PM
Thanks for the help, I have a 98 Olds Aurora. Problem just started today. It does look posessed! I read posts that sometimes the problem was the lamp control module, and others the multi-switch. To troubleshoot, locate the control module (LCM) located on the left side of the instrument panel. It has a 2 connectors 6 pin and 16 pin. Measure voltage on White wire (B1) in reference to ground. This is the control wire from the multi-switch. It should read battery voltage when manual switch is off, and ground when lights turned on manually. ( When connected to LCM, a trouble light to ground on this pin will turn on the headlights, and won't detect problem) If problem is in switch, the voltage should fluctuate as the light flashing problem occurs. If it does not fluctuate, then the problem is most likely the LCM. If it does fluctuate, disconect the 16 pin connector from the LCM, and connect an ohmmeter between the white lead of the wire harness and ground, or a test light between battery and the white lead. To verify proper connection, turn on headlight switch, and the ohmmeter will show a short to ground, or the test light will light. Then turn off headlamp switch, and wait. If it is the switch, you will see the ohmmeter fluctuate, or the test lamp; flash intermittently, as the headlights were doing. My problem was in the switch. I did not have time tonight to clean the switch, as someone had mentioned, but intend to this weekend. For an interim solution, I removed the white wire from pin B1 of the connector, and tapped it back to harness. This pin on it has ground potential when active so it is relatively safe. I never use my manual light switch anyway, I let the light sentinel turn my lights on/off automatically, so I won't miss it. Be cautious, as you will no longer have option to manually turn on your lights if somehow the automatic feature failed, but that would be unlikely. Note, this method still allows the parking lights, and the fog lights to be used normally with manual switches. Note, to remove pin, there are four rows of holes on the LCM side of the connector, I inserted a mini-screwdriver in the hole adjacent to the one with the white wire, and got pin to pop out undamaged.

Sk33t
09-14-2004, 05:49 PM
Man it really works :) Well I haven't actually did it but i took off the steering cover and found the 5 holes. One of the holes was filled with grease so I got a small knife with a sharpe tip and clean the grease and the lights stop flashing. I'm on my way right now to radio shack right now to get the contact cleaner and compressed air so I can do the job right. Thanks in advance :)

treeboy38
10-04-2004, 05:14 PM
Thank you thumpin455 for your post. My lights were flashing whish in turn killed my battery. I fixed the switch today and so far *knock on wood* the lights aren't flashing.

Thank you very much!

sequret
05-25-2005, 01:49 PM
Thank you so much to thumpkin455, you are an Aurora God in my book. Your easy to read instructions fixed my blinking chiming problem also. Only takes 30 min. or so. Longer to wait for the cleaner to dry! You saved me hundreds!!!!!

boattaillou
06-01-2005, 11:40 AM
I had the same issue. The problem is too much grease on the multi-function switch. You can try taking it apart and cleaning it, or you can just get a new/used switch (it's not cheap). Other symptoms include a relay going "click-click-click-click" all of the time (this killed my battery on my '98 when this happened)...

--Robert
Hello, Would this problem also be the reason the parking lights would flash on/off after the car is off? My friend has a '97 and the parking lights flash on/off after the car is off. Also, can hear the clicking under the driver's side. The headlights work find and do not come on after the car is off. It is just the parking lights flashing. Thanks for any information you can lend on this subject. Lou

boattaillou
06-01-2005, 11:44 AM
Yes I too can confirm that the multifunction headlight switch is what makes the headlights randomly flash back on and off after the car is turned off. The relays inside the Lamp Control Module box located under the left side of the dash will also make a random click noise that coincides with the random flashing of the lights. In my case and most others, you will find that the Lamp Control Module is not the problem and niether is the twilight sentinel adjustment control. Again, the multifunction switch seems to be the common culprit. I did a search here and on a couple of the other Aurora forums and everyone seemed to cure their flashing lights/stuck on syndrome by replacing the multifunction switch which cost over $500 for a dealer to do it. I also found a few posts by Hammen and others that made reference to too much grease in the rotating part of the switch where the contacts are housed. I found another post about using contact cleaner with good results and this is what I did to cure my problem today.

Pardon me for being longwinded but here is how I saved over $500 and you can do it too. You will need to gain access to the rotating contact part of the switch that is hidden under the steering wheel covers but you will not have to remove the switch in order to clean it. You will need to buy a can of electrical contact cleaner and a can of compressed air like you use for keyboards. Both can be had at Radio Shack and both come with the red extension tube that fits the spray nozzle. First move the seat all the way back, then disconnect the battery, remove the sound deadeners, remove the two 10mm bolts at bottom of knee bolster, use your fingertips to pry the sentinel/dimmer assembly and trunk/fuel door release assembly from dash (leave harnesses connected and let dangle) to expose the remaining two 10mm bolts securing knee bolster, remove knee bolster, remove 10 amp fuse for Air Bag, disconnect SIR (air bag) yellow connector at lower left corner behind ins panel, tilt wheel up, use 3/16 or 5mm nutdriver to remove 3 screws securing steering wheel top cover (note that 1 screw is accessed thru the opening for the tilt lever while the other 2 are located on either side of the column closest to the lense/guages), remove 3 more of the same small tapping screws securing the lower steering wheel cover to column, remove black ring of text around ignition lock by pulling straight out, upper and lower covers can now be unsnapped and removed. With your left ear against the mirror control looking just forward of where the stalk goes to the column, you will see 5 tiny holes in a semi-circular pattern. When turning the headlamp switch you can see the contacts moving from hole to hole. Spray contact cleaner in the holes and immediately follow up with the compressed air can to flush out the contact cleaner. Move the headlamp switch rapidly thru all the detents and repeat several times with the contact cleaner followed by several bursts of compressed air to flush out the excess cleaner and dry. When finished, wait 30 minutes to make sure contacts are thoroughly dry then reconnect battery and test. Hopefully all is well and like me you just saved some major $
Hello, Would this problem cause the parking lights to flash on/off after the car is turned off? Also, have the clicking noise under the driver's side dash. The headlights are working fine it is just the parking lights not shutting off. Thanks for any help on this matter. Lou

brihoo2k
06-18-2005, 06:27 PM
Great post thumpin unfortunately it didnt cure my problem. It probably would have in days gone by but my multi-function light switch wouldnt even pass a continuity test. After calling the dealer and finding out that it cost over $400 dollars for just the switch I decided to take matters in my own hands and got out the factory service manual. I studied the wiring diagrams throughly and came to the conclusion that I would cut the wires that supplied power to the headlights and parking lights. In the book it shows it to be a white wire for the head lights and a grey wire with a black stripe for the parking. Well on my 97 it was a yellow in place of the white I cut and taped those two wires and my problems were over. Of course the multi-function switch doesnt work anymore but it wasnt working before I started and I never used them anyway. I would not suggest this to anyone except in extreme cases

steve009
06-22-2005, 09:58 AM
My 97 had the same problem...headlights stay on forever until you disconnect the battery. I took it to an Olds mechanic who replaced the left side switch assembly...wish I had known about this cleaning procedure...maybe next time! Part was $300+

Hi i did what you guys said but i didn't remove anytihng but the rubber around the multi switch and sprayed away and it solved my problem.
I had spent $100.00 in Light Control Modules Thats where the clicking is coming from and hours tring to find a 1997 aurora that is compatable.
So thats again!

MTrachy
06-28-2005, 08:00 AM
I had the flashing headlight problem, and I followed the instructions regarding cleaning the switch. It has been over a week now, and the problem seems to have been solved. Thanks for the post on how to clean the switch. The instructions were dead on and very accurate...up to even using a 3/16 socket for removing the 6 screws holding the steering wheel covers on (even though they are really Torx screws...at least on my Aurora...but the 3/16 socket worked). So thanks again.

MT

thumpin455
06-29-2005, 09:21 PM
MT, glad your problem seems to be solved now.

Note that the instructions called for a 3/16" or 5mm "nutdriver" not a socket. Reason being is the walls of a 3/16" 1/4 drive socket are generally too thick to remove 2 of the 6 screws holding on the steering column clam-shell covers. The 2 screws that are deeply recessed inside holes on the underside of the steering column will not have enough clearance to use a socket. The one-piece design of a nutdriver gives you the extra clearance needed. I've had a couple of people email me and mention they couldn't get all the screws out or thought they had a couple stripped screws. USE A 3/16 OR 5MM NUTDRIVER NOT A SOCKET.

Several others have posted that this cleaning procedure has not worked. I read that others are peeling back the rubber boot and blindly spraying away. You cannot gain proper access to the rotating part of the switch which houses the contacts and has the 5 tiny holes to spray into without first removing the steering column covers (which takes a nutdriver not a socket).

Hope this helps

Marcolus
07-05-2005, 02:04 PM
well, i ran into this problem last night driving home from work, needless to say i could not find the battery and it died overnight, i finally found it, charged it, and am in the process of cleaning the contacts, :crossfingers: I hope this works b/c i really dont want to buy a new switch.

Also, anyone have horn issues while doing this?

Marcolus
07-05-2005, 03:27 PM
i dun did it

so far so good, you guys 0wn, thanks mucho

pjnutt
07-20-2005, 10:00 AM
This could be the best post on the site. Multifunction switches are EXPENSIVE, especially if you have a dealer change it. My turn signals went out this winter, I changes the whole steering column, switches and all for about $150, got one from a local parts dealer called Shrams in Waterford Michigan. Of course, my new/used switch must have been dirty b/c after 6 months of use it developed the psycho lights and dash issue.

On Sunday, I noticed my car head lights going crazy, no keys in the ignition mind you. There was also a loud clicking coming from under the dash. This post was right on the money on how to make a $10 fix instead of a $500+ fix at the dealer. I was fimiliar with how to rip apart the dash from my 1st jouney with the switch, so this was an easy fix, aside from crawling around under the steering column taking it all apart.

THIS SITE IS AWESOME, such a great resource. Thanks for the initial post, followed it to a "T", even the part number on the contact cleaner from Radio Shack!

THANKS AGAIN!
PJNUTT

jrc3
07-30-2005, 02:37 PM
thank you thumpin455 and all the others that have contributed to this thread. man oh man this fix really works. luckily i had contact cleaner and a compressor so it cost me basically nothing. and i like free, it's by far one of my favorite words. anyway, her is my contribution to this extremely helpfull thread. pics of the switch for reference.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y9/jrc3/Dsc00024.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y9/jrc3/Dsc00023.jpg

good luck to all, jack

kiway22
01-24-2006, 01:08 AM
I was wondering what those contact holes looked like. I have read quite a few posts about them. Thx jrc3

tjm
01-24-2006, 06:52 AM
Check the 2 "multifunction" links on this page. Full how-to write-ups and pics included.
http://www.aurorah.proboards47.com/index.cgi?board=1stgen&action=display&thread=1131809488

rbajjk
03-02-2006, 09:12 PM
You guys rock!!!!

Thumpin455 thanks for the insight, instructions, and where to buy the contact cleaner. I also want to thank Steve009 for the shortcut to remove only the rubber seal/guard around the turn signal stem....instead of the dash and steering column plastic. I felt like I got a virtually dead-on shot with the contact cleaner and compressed air - without dismantling everything. And just in case the cleaner pooled up anywhere in there I did place a large box fan under the dash/steering column for at least an hour before reconnecting anything. But I have to say that seeing those pictures really made it an easy fix - knowing exactly what to look for.

Anyway, problem discovered Tuesday, Wed AM fix (all of 20 minutes since I only removed the rubber gasket around the turn signal stem), and today is Thursday pm - still no issues.

Thanks again guys.

Brian - '97 w/120k

chet123free
07-20-2007, 01:01 PM
I want to send a special THANKS!!! to thumpin 455 for his longwinded description of his Aurora lighting problem and how he fixed it. I had a similar problem and his fix worked for me. Saved a ton of money.

Thanks again.

Chet

BNaylor
07-23-2007, 07:01 AM
I want to send a special THANKS!!! to thumpin 455 for his longwinded description of his Aurora lighting problem and how he fixed it. I had a similar problem and his fix worked for me. Saved a ton of money.

Thanks again.

Chet

Welcome to AF.

Thanks for your input, however, please check the date and do not resurrect old threads. This thread has run it's course and has been closed.

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