ok, I am considering getting a 4 runner, I like them alot, probably a early 90's, 4wd for sure, most likely automatic, and V6 for sure, Im pretty sure they have a 3.0 V6 back then right? only thing is I am worried about the power pushing all the weight I wilh have in it, I will have somewhere around 400 pounds of stereo equipment, and then it will be lifted with 15x10 rims topped with interco super swamper stl/thornbird 35/12.50's or super swamper TSL/SX steel's and am not sure if the 3 liter can push all this no problem. other SUV IM considering is a late-late 80's early 90s cherokee with the 4.0 inline 6, a friend has one wiht a cuple hundred pound system, and is lifted like 6 inches I think with WIDE 35's and has no problem, that thing still hauls A$$ for what it is. should I go for the cherokee or do you think the 4runner has the power for my needs?

I don't know how much power you expect, but a middle-late 90s 4Runner V6 with a TRD supercharger will kick butt.

well, I can really only afford early 90's, seen a few 94's I can afford, when did they go to a 3.4L?

First 3.4L was offered in 1996.

For starters, I have an '88 4Runner, V6, 5 Speed, SR5, loaded with all optional pacages at the time. Up to 89, 4Runners had removable hard tops; a big plus for me. I don't even know where to start. Yes, it's true, the 3.0 V6 is not the strongest of all V6's, but if you set it up right, you should be fine. My Runner has a 4" Skyjacker lift, 33x12.50R15 Goodyear MT/R's on 15x10 Alcoa Challengers. I drove it around like that for about 2 years...it was ok...I did lose a bit of power...5th gear was weak getting up hills. I have since then installed 4:88 gears with a Detroit Locker. I got all my horsepower back with a little extra torque. I also have a K&N filter charger & Borla exhuast. I've always had a stereo system with a pretty heavy speaker box that accomodates 2-8" competition Kickers, 2-350w Pioneer 6x9, and a couple of amps (the box is big for maximum air volume behind the speakers for good bass). It also has some very heavy bumpers and trail armor. I don't know the exact weight, but let's just say, it's really heavy duty. The girls I'm with usually weigh between 105-125 lbs depending on height. My truck runs strong. To run 35" tires, you need at least 4:88 gears but I would recomend 5:29's. Any vehicle with substantially larger diameter tires than stock will lose a good amount of power without matching the differential gears. Sounds to me, like you don't mind spending money on speakers, amps and stuff like that; but I always say, "A thousand dollar winch will get you out of the mud faster than a thousand dollar stereo system". It's up to you. Everyone is different. Good luck. I wouldn't buy a Jeep, they are a little bit less reliable, strong engines though.

well, yeah, I have been looking over yotatech.com and am considering geting the 35's and at least getting 5.29's if not 5.71's

I also plan on having front/rear tube bumpers/winch for sure so if i do go into a tree or giant rock my hood/grille/gate/whatevcer survives. Or if i get stuck I can get back out. I am going to make my own too so I can build it to protect where I want it to, I saw oe guy wiht a dual 4" tube steel rear bumper and he filles it up with compressed air to a high psi. and he can fill his tires off of that or run an air tool if needer or whatever, pretty trick. but my sysetm is going to be a bit more than that, I am going to have a giant box with 4 audiobahn high excursions and 2 JBL 1200.1's, 1 audiobahn 5 farad rack mount cap, plus a couple audiobahns A4002T amps pushing components up front, 6/9's in back, and eventually a inverter/XBOX/7" screen.

Chart A (28" is stock 4WD tire diameter)

From 28" to 33"=17.85% larger diameter
28" to 35"=25.00% " "
28" to 36"=28.57% " "
28" to 38"=35.71% " "
28" to 40"=42.85% " "

Chart B (Only gear choice available)

4.10 to 4.88 = 19.02% lower ratio
4.10 to 5.29 = 29.02% " "
4.10 to 5.71 = 39.29% " "

By installing 5.71's you are gearing for at least 38" tires. Try to match up the percentage increase of tire diameter with the percentage decrease of gear ratio.

Another tip: 5.71's have been known to break much faster than 5.29's under stressfull off road conditions.

*Some 4Runners came with 31" tires stock & 4.56's if I'm not mistaken.

with 4 inch suspension lift and maybe a 3 inch body lift could I fit 38" boggers? I am pretty sure I dont wanna go that big but it would be cool looking for sure. ok, how big of a deal would it be though if I ran 33's at first with 5.29's, cheaper and since I am not getting them from a local place I wont be sure the 35's will fit, then if they do I got the gearing for them, and nothing wrong with a bit of low gearing, right? also what tires you like? I was looking at the thornbirds and heard a nicknae thornturds, now I am considering the super swamper SX, or maybe just something simple like the wild country radial TXR.

There's nothing wrong with 5.29's & 33's. You get more torque & it's quicker off the line. That's good for climbing things. In addition to a 4" suspension lift, you could install bigger shackles in the rear & beefy torsion bars up front. The shackles will give you an extra 1-1/2" in the rear, the torsion bars might give you an extra 1-2" in the front. If you crank the torsion bars too much it will give you a crappy ride. 35's should fit the rear, no problem. You might have to take off the front valance panel and bend back the pinch weld lip at the rear of the front fender to fit 35's up front. Even with a 3" body lift I probably wouldn't go any bigger than 36's (that's a lot of tire). I'm a big fan of going big, but I started my truck as a daily driver with good off road ability while keeping it somewhat practical. I'm not a big fan of body lifts, but sometimes you have to do it. If you put a body lift on a 4runner with auto trans, you might have secondary problems with extending things like the transfer case shifter and some other stuff. I had a buddy that put a 3" body lift on his, that's why I remember that he had some problems. I don't know a whole lot about body lifts, but I guess, once you got it all figured out, it should be no problem. I try to stay away from the super sawmper line up. They wear out too fast and ride like crap. They're good if you drive mostly off road.....I don't. I like Goodyear MT/R's. I've have them for over 4 years with about 50,000miles on them. They have been through mud, sand, snow, rocks, and just about any thing else I could throw at them including rugged terrain down in Baja Mexico. One of them has had a nail in it for about 4 years now, it only loses air about once every six months. As far as I'm concerned, these tires are close to bomb proof. Oh yeah, they kinda suck in the rain just like any mud tire.

visc... where did you find that chart?

I live pretty close to Downey Off Road Manufacturing (Santa Fe Springs, California). Their catalog is kind of like a bible. It's filled with a lot of good info. That chart is in the catalog with more detail.

ok, but if I lifted it 4 inches and then got even more lift from shackles and tweaked torqion bars, wouldnt 6 inches of lift require some kind of drivetrain mod, isnt that too extreme of an angle from case to diffs?

I might just get like 33" wild country TXR's at first, then I will se how 35's would fit and if they doo Ill research tires more and get the 35's. and I dont wanna do any permanent mods to the wheelwells to fit the tires, like bending anything.

That's why I went for the set up that I have. For me it's just right. I have the aftermarket shackles & torsion bars along with the 4" Skyjacker lift. I did get vibration from the drive line at first. I was stumped. Someone told me to put some washers in to lower the transfer case a bit so I manufactured 3/4" spacers out of some thick pipe. I think it was schedule 80 stainless. Problem resolved.

so you lower the whole transfer case, wouldnt you have to lower engine/trans/case, or did you just lower the rear of the whole setup so now it all just points downwards more, never seen the underside of a runner so I dont know how it all bolts up.

The transfer case sits on a support bracket that attaches from one side of the frame to the other side of the frame. 4 Bolts. 2 On the left & 2 on the right. The transfer case sits on this bracket. All you have to do is go out and buy longer bolts and some lock washers , install your spacers (about 3/4") and tighten it down. The rear leaf springs already come with a shim that angles the differential upward. And if your going to do it the cheap way, the rear lifting blocks are also angled so that it turns your differential upward. I've seen this method on Jeeps too. The transfer case spacers are just enough to get rid of the bad vibes. After the leafs break in and start to sag a bit, you might not need the spacers anymore....I just left them in, they don't bother me. No crazy wazoo mods needed.

ok, cool. I will probably do it the cheap way with block s since it is real CHEAP, but I want to later, or roight away if I can afford it go with a good likt kit like pro comp or superlift, etc... I am going to look at a 90 V6 5 speed today probably, its 2995 but has 236k, looks like it has been taken care of well though, but it has to be REAL nice for me to buy it wiht that mabny miles, I hear of people with 300k on their 3FZE(i think) and stinll running perfect, and my uncle has 411k on his 22r. so if it looks good I might have it.

Cool, let me know how it goes.......sorry to hear it's not going to be a convertable. I like '89 down. Good luck. If you have any Q's, let me know.

no offense but I wouldnt get a pre 90, dont like the looks at all.

oh crap, I forgot. I think all post 80's have coil springs in the rear.

Yup all the 2nd, 3rd and 4th gens are coils in the rear. and i think almost all years of the 80's.

ok, so no lift blocks for me...

make sure you do some brake work. those factories wont do a good job with those big boggers. just a thought

That's why I went for the set up that I have. For me it's just right. I have the aftermarket shackles & torsion bars along with the 4" Skyjacker lift. I did get vibration from the drive line at first. I was stumped. Someone told me to put some washers in to lower the transfer case a bit so I manufactured 3/4" spacers out of some thick pipe. I think it was schedule 80 stainless. Problem resolved.
I have a 4" lift as well, also had the same drive line vibration. I just had the drive line rebuilt and extended and it works great. Only cost around $250 if I remember correctly.

its been 7 months..... and I would do the washer trick for 79 cents if it was me.

I used the washer trick to find the correct size of spacer I needed, then I made some strong spacers out of some thick pipe. The pipe was free, from my friend's work.

I have a 4" lift as well, also had the same drive line vibration. I just had the drive line rebuilt and extended and it works great. Only cost around $250 if I remember correctly.

When you said you had the drive line rebuilt and extended, please give details as to what they did. What did the rebuild entail? How much of an extension? U-joints?........

I would go with the Cherokee if you want drivetrain durability. It has a straight 6 that has been around for 40 years and a transmission that is usually found behind V8's. The toyotas are put together better, but with the 3.0 they are a little less durable than most toyotas.