Multiple Problems 95 aurora ANY HELP WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED

This is all for a 95 Aurora. I will start with the main problem. The transmission. As the tranny is entering reverse it jerks quite hard as if somebody ran into me from behind. Putting it into drive is similar but not as hard of a jerk. Now the fun part, while I am driving: It feels as though I am starting out in 2nd or maybe 3rd. Whichever gear its in when I start to accelerate from a stop it stays in no matter how fast I go. IT WONT SHIFT. I will only drive it to about 35 mph then the tach reads about 3500. I wont go above that cause it sounds unhealthy for the engine and tranny. Now there is a Service Engine Soon light on and the Airbag light is on as well. I looked at the tranny fluid level while it was hot and it looked to be a little high. These are the latest problems. Yesterday it was a whole different list of problems. Yesterday the cooling system wouldn't fill up (the upper hose, lower hose all wouldnt fill with coolant). The DIC said Check charge system on it and the VOLTS light was on. But the transmission was working perfectly yesterday. Smooth as could be shifts and just the right timing. Now today all of the problems above are occurring while the cooling system is now filled up the check charge system on the DIC is no longer on and the VOLTS light is no longer on.


I called up the dealer to ask them about the IDLE LEARN TEST. This test is for after you unplug the battery for getting the computer to relearn the idle or something like that. They said they would charge me 70 bucks to do it. So then I called a local garage and they told me how to do it without a scan tool. So today I did what they said. Which was, start the car put it into drive with the parking brake on and let it idle in gear for 2 fan cycles. I did exactly that and the service engine soon light went off after I put it back into park and then came back on about 5 seconds later. And thats where I am up to now. Please help me figure something out. Im leaning towards a computer malfunction or some kind of false code. Also on another note is it healthy for the battery voltage to be running around 18 volts while the car is running and driving.

As always any help will be greatly appreciated.

One other thing I forgot to add. Now the ABS and Traction Control lights are no longer on. The Traction Control is actually functional now as in I can push the button and it will turn on and off. Before pushing the button didn't do anything. So maybe that IDLE LEARN TEST may reset the ABS and Traction Control system and turn the lights off.

Good luck with the tranny I had the same problems with mine but once it started it never got any better as you say yours did. Mine had a complete rebuild for about $2800.00. But she runs great now. Hope you have better luck. One thing the guy who rebuilt mine said that it might not be a big deal about $100 bucks or so but It turned out different for me if yours is not staying that way it might be something simple. In anycase take it to a tranny specialist that you trust. I will call him and ask him what he origianly thought it was. the $2800 made me forget.

With that many things going wrong with it I would say your best best is to take it to a dealer and have it hooked up to the computer and have the codes pulled. Best of luck!

BKVic

A stick of dynamite?

you have to love the northstar tannys. I agree with flaurora, take it to a transmission shop. The clunking in the tranny is caused by the fluid pressure being raised, expecially in reverse. It takes more pressure for reverse than it does in any other gear, thats why reverse is worse. Check to see if there is a code for the "speed input sensor". As far as all the other shit going on, good luck on that one, maybe a computer. I had 7 different codes at one time, a computer cleared everything up. Hope this helps!

Just dig a big hole and drive it into it...then put dirt and some flowers on it...lol, no serioiusly, you need to have it checked out by a professional.

well I had some check engine lights come on. so i went to autozone and they checked the codes for me. there happened to be 12 but I cleared them and then he told me to come back it any one came on, well they did so i went back and they checked it again and it told me what the problem was. so I was able to fix it and paid nothing for the scan, so maybe you should go there find out what the scan tool tells you and post it up on here and maybe we can help you out.

You need to do what 97 silverbullet did. Have your codes cleared and then when the check engine light comes back on, take it in and check what codes are in the system. Then go from there. The traction and anti-lock brake lights are probably not on because after unplugging the battery for that long, you probably cleared the codes. But as soon as you take it for a nice drive, it will probably come back on. Just because you can push the traction button and the traction off light goes on and off means nothing. As soon as your check engine light comes back on and the traction off light is on steady, it will not change at all. I had that go bad in mine. It ended up being the pressure regulator valve. It cost me $700 to fix it. But that may not be necessarily what is wrong with yours. The only way to know for sure is to pull the codes from the computer.