Signal indicator won't turn off.

My 1999 Blazer wouldn't stop with the indicator "clicking" on SuperBowl Sunday. It stops when the brakes are pressed, but keeps going even with turn signals turned off. Turn signals themselves work just fine. What should I be looking at?

I check all turn signal fuses and they are fine.

Thanks :)

What signals are "clicking"? All of them (front/back/left/right) or what?

It's the audible indicator in the dash. I hear the clicking even when the turn signal is turned off. All of the signal lights work fine, I just can't get rid of the clicking sound.

Might be a problem with one of the circuits, as if that's not an obvious enough answer. You might need to get it looked at though, my father's truck had a similar problem that annoyed the hell out of everyone, and a new board fixed it right up.

My 1999 Blazer wouldn't stop with the indicator "clicking" on SuperBowl Sunday. It stops when the brakes are pressed, but keeps going even with turn signals turned off. Turn signals themselves work just fine. What should I be looking at?

I check all turn signal fuses and they are fine.

Thanks :)

I'm experiencing the exact problem in my 2000 Blazer and GODDDAMMMM is it annoying....going on 3 weeks now.....if I don't get it fixed soon I'll be driving it straight to the nearest mental institution....the one good idea i've heard is that it could possibly be leakage in the circuit via corrosion in a tail light socket, which is back feeding the turn signal "clicker", but not with enough juice to activate the flashers....or something like that....it seems consistent with the fact that hitting the brakes makes it go away....I plan on checking the bulbs tonight and hitting them with some WD40 to see if that does the trick, although it doesn't look like they've given us easy access to the bulbs.....I'll let you know how it pans out......Let me know if you have any progress.

Thanks.

most likley bad turn signal switch

JUST finished this job. The flasher unit was "pinging" but no lights were on and it would stop when the brakes were applied. I verified this by touching it the flasher unit. It's the multi-funciton switch. I replaced this about 2 hours ago and no more noise. Switch is expensive - $182 with tax here in PA. PITA of a job but I was able to do it without removing the steering wheel. NO MORE BLINKER NOISE.

The parts guy at the Chevy dealership said these go bad all the time and they replace LOTS of Blazer multi-function switches.

Hope this helps - LOL.

Okay, I had the same problem with my 1998 Blazer a few months ago. It was driving me crazy. But then I just learned to ignore it. I did find some information on the internet about it tho... found out it would cost about $400.00 to have repaired. So I just gave up and let it keep clicking. Then my alternator went out. I took it to the garage to have the alternator replaced and guess what? No more ticking. I don't know why, but when the alternator was replaced it stopped completely.

i've also learned to ignore it. i actually got a new switch 6 or so months ago ($120), but haven't gotten around to the PITA job. replaced the alternator a couple weeks ago too, i wasn't as lucky as Diana - it still ticks. one of these days i'll get around to swapping it out.

I just spent the past two nights trying to figure out why the flasher in my Blazer was clicking. This post helped me in my trouble shooting process, so I thought I'd add some info. Sorry if this has already been posted.
You can disassemble the multifunction switch and clean the contacts for the turn signal. It looked as though the grease was contaminated and blocking contact in the center of the switch (a small indentation in the middle of the center contact)
I'm not sure if it was that or some contamination between two of the contacts that was closing a circuit or poor contacts.
I just cleaned all of the contacts. I wiped of the old grease, scuffed the contacts with a scotch-bright pad, and added some fresh electrical grease. Reassemble, and no more clicking.

So great to have these replies.. I have been having this problem for a few days now and have contemplated trading it in.... Thanks to all of you who have posted your suggestions.. I believe that I will try to clean the contects first and if I completely destroy the switch, then I will replace it..
Thanks Again

:lol2: :p :iceslolan

I have this same issue on my '98 Blazer and was wondering if anyone knew some specifics about the flasher unit and the MFS. I'd like to know if the flasher units might have a transistor that is [poorly] designed so that it could turn ON with leakage current from the MFS, such as might be conducted by grease that has migrated within the switch. IF this is the case, maybe a possible fix for the issue would be to put an appropriate resistor (10k Ohm or so?) to ground in parallel off the signal wire from the MFS? Maybe this would shunt the unwanted current from the MFS away from the flasher unit and be a cheapo / low labor fix to the issue? Any electronics gurus out there that have an opinion on this? I don't have a wiring diagram for my truck, so I could be completely backwards on this, but I figured there are no stupid questions, right?

Same problem with my 98 Jimmy. Replaced the relay behind the glovebox, still same. I have searched many forums and the consensus seems to be contaminated grease in the multifuction switch. Many advise cleaning and regrease before buying a new one. Some say remove steering wheel some say that's not necessary. I would appreciate any advise on doing this job. I am fairly mechanically adept but I don't want to get my head blown off by airbag. Thanks all.

Here's an update on what I've done to try to address this issue with minimal pain and suffering. I removed the flasher unit, opened it up to inspect its internals, and it appears to be a relay (obviously) plus some electronics, presumably a transisitor to do some switching and a timer to regulate the on/off time of the relay. The terminal marked "L" is the Load terminal (that socket on the body side connector goes to ground through the switch and the bulbs when the turn signals are on). So, I tried to solder a few different size resistors across the + and L terminals to offset the load being presented by the MFS. I assumed the load was small since no dash indicator lamps or signal bulbs were actually lighting up, so I tried high resistances first to be safe. I've tried 22k, 10k, and 4.7k so far. The 22 and 10 did nothing, but the 4.7k sounded like it might have been passing enough current to almost prevent the flasher from operating... the clicks were a little less certain. I guess I'm going to try a 1k resistor next. I was hesitant at first, but I figure the worst that should happen with such small currents (like 14.5 milliamps) would be to damage or destroy the inexpensive circuitry in the flasher itself... I would hope that the wiring, switches, and bulbs in the lighting circuit are much hardier than would be bothered by such a small current.

My Blazer is doing this now too. I have a 99 Chevy ZR2 Blazer, it is for sale now. I'm going to dump this thing, it has been the most unreliable vehicle in the past 6 months. In the past 6 months I've had to have 4wd repaired ($$$$$!!!!) the driver's power window quit working, keyless entry went out, replaced alternator, some kind of thumping in my transmission from 1st to 2nd after it has been running for a while, now the stupid turn signal thing. It's like being married to a hooker, you can't trust her at all anymore!

Ladies and Gentlemen, I have lost faith and I'm now going to switch to the world of Japanese autos. I'm dumping the Blazer and getting a Tacoma I think. My Ford Mustang was great, but I still think I'm going to the land of the rising sun....

My Blazer is doing this now too. I have a 99 Chevy ZR2 Blazer, it is for sale now. I'm going to dump this thing, it has been the most unreliable vehicle in the past 6 months. In the past 6 months I've had to have 4wd repaired ($$$$$!!!!) the driver's power window quit working, keyless entry went out, replaced alternator, some kind of thumping in my transmission from 1st to 2nd after it has been running for a while, now the stupid turn signal thing. It's like being married to a hooker, you can't trust her at all anymore!

Ladies and Gentlemen, I have lost faith and I'm now going to switch to the world of Japanese autos. I'm dumping the Blazer and getting a Tacoma I think. My Ford Mustang was great, but I still think I'm going to the land of the rising sun....

traitor! lol just kidding. many people will tell you that japanese automobiles are far superior to american ones. my neighbor got screwed over by GM back in the day, so that is why he still holds a grudge and only drives foreign cars. but others people they are better quality. im on my 2nd vehicle and its still american.. but then again im still young...

Tacoma = Ford Ranger. I am no great fan of Ford, but save money, get a better warranty in the Ford. All parts but the external sheet metal and interior plastic is bolt for bolt exactly the same, and you will not be paying "import prices" when it breaks down. And trust me, that will be as often, or more prevalent than your Blazer. ;)

I disagree on the Ford Ranger/Tacoma reply. Especially for the new one which has grown in size and has a new 245hp engine. Not even close to anything you can get with Ranger. The older Tacos were about the same size, but after doing a lot of research I found that the Toyota was the most reliable (to avoid Blazer type problems) and held it's resale value better than any other of the non-full sized trucks. Also, I have talked to a lot of people with them (I accost people in parking lots even) and no complaints yet!

The Ranger is a good little truck, but I want something a little bigger, more powerfull (I tow rafts on trailers from time to time in the mountains), a little better off road (I live in central rockies and camp almost every weekend), and reliable (I'm going to finance this for a pretty long term loan with the intention of keeping until it dies).

I own a 98 blazer and i had the same problem. That stupid clicking noise on the right side of the dash. In my case, it was the multifunctional switch in the steering colum. i cleaned and oiled and everything and still that annoying clicking noise. i eventually found a u-pull-it-salvage yard and got a new one for 40$. I would suggest the same thing. GM really needs to put a recall on the blasted things!!!

I did the clean and regrease thing on the MF :smile: switch to no avail. Still incesant ticking. I was willing to put up with the clicking but the little woman wasn't. So I broke down and paid the $175 for a new switch. Problem solved. Due to the prevalence of this problem I agee GM should recall/replace these when the problem arises. I will keep my 98 Jimmy SLT. It is a luxury SUV with offroad and tow package. I luv it. The Vortec 4.3 pulls my large boat well, good mileage and has been reliable for 90K other than this one annoyance (regular maintenance aside).

This is a failure of the Multi function switch (turnsignal lever) its a very common problem, and if you are going to go through the trouble of cleaning it I would just replace it. $97. at gmpartsdirect.com the dealers want $197, its not a bad job to replace the dash has to come apart, first dicoonect the battery and remove the fuse to the air bag, take off the bezel and bottom trim remove the cover on the steering column, you dont have to remove the steering wheel, at least on mine I didnt (tilt wheel) two torx head screws hold the mfs in and a huge wiring harness. All told 3 hours and I'm a klutz.

This is a failure of the Multi function switch (turnsignal lever) its a very common problem, and if you are going to go through the trouble of cleaning it I would just replace it. $97. at gmpartsdirect.com the dealers want $197, its not a bad job to replace the dash has to come apart, first dicoonect the battery and remove the fuse to the air bag, take off the bezel and bottom trim remove the cover on the steering column, you dont have to remove the steering wheel, at least on mine I didnt (tilt wheel) two torx head screws hold the mfs in and a huge wiring harness. All told 3 hours and I'm a klutz.

Would you happen to know the part # on that, I'm unable to find it.

Flasher relay swap.

part # for the muti function switch is 26100837
at gmpartsdirect

My 1999 Blazer wouldn't stop with the indicator "clicking" on SuperBowl Sunday. It stops when the brakes are pressed, but keeps going even with turn signals turned off. Turn signals themselves work just fine. What should I be looking at?

I check all turn signal fuses and they are fine.

Thanks :)

My 1999 Blazer also constantly signals, unless I hit the brakes. The second my foot is off the brakes, it starts sounding again. What a pain in the ass. I also do not feel like spending $400 bucks to have a new switch installed. I also tried replacing the signal switch behind the glove box. Forget it , it doesn't solve the problem.I tried spraying some contact cleaner into the signal switch. TYhis worked for a day or 2 and then back to the same problemo. Next step is to take the signal out and clean and regrease.
Good Luck

Change the flasher module.

Hi Gang,
I realize this is an older post, none the less, I have been sticken with the old mystery multifunctanionl switch. Some have said they accomplished this task without the removel of the steering wheel, does anyone know the trick and what the he** this thing looks like? Thanx ahead of time

Joe/ djr1085@aol.com

Hi Gang,
I realize this is an older post, none the less, I have been sticken with the old mystery multifunctanionl switch. Some have said they accomplished this task without the removel of the steering wheel, does anyone know the trick and what the he** this thing looks like? Thanx ahead of time

Joe/ djr1085@aol.com
Look at this thread in the How to
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=625540
and the switch they are refering to is your turnsignal, cruise,dimmer and wiper control.
http://img419.imageshack.us/img419/4300/ds933ra8.jpg