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2000 Century starting problem


dude99x
01-30-2004, 04:21 PM
Hi,

I have a 2000 Buick Century that has a peculiar starting problem. When I start it completely cold, it starts perfectly. Same thing for a hot start. But when I let it sit for approx. 30 min to a couple of hours, it has some problems starting. I turn the key; it starts, then immediately dies. If I try again, it does the same thing. But if I wait for a half a minute or so, and try again, it will start, then immediately dip to very low RPMs, but catch itself and come back to life. This happened once every couple of weeks when I first got the car at 29k miles, then increased in frequency until it happens every time at 48k miles. It is currently throwing no DTCs or pending codes. I very recently had the intake manifold gasket replaced (failed pressure test), the intake manifold inspected (no cracks), the coolant flushed, the thermostat replaced (preventative maintenance), the spark plugs replaced, and the fuel filter and pressure checked. I also replaced the air filter and PCV valve, and put a bottle of injector cleaner in the gas. All of this service had no effect whatsoever on the problem. I also recently had a transmission rebuild (see my other post under 2000 Century harsh shifting), which has also had no effect on this problem. My mechanic has not had a chance to replicate the symptom and says to wait until it gets worse before he troubleshoots. I'm worried about what worse means. I can't afford miss work some day because my relatively new, low mileage car completely refuses to start.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Phil

glass man
05-11-2005, 08:39 AM
I have a 2001 Century (3.1 Engine) with the same problems as you describe. I have had this problem only on days where the outside temperatue is over 70 deg. F. The coolant temperature stays in the normal range and the engine is not overheating. The engine cranks over fine so I don't think I have a simple battery problem. Check engine light is on only during the time when the car doesn't start and goes out after the next time I sucessfully start the car. No codes are stored in the computer, Autozone checked for codes 3 times within the same week of starting problems. I have checked the resistance of the coil packs and they appear to be ok according to my Haynes manual. I tried to remove and check the ignition control modules located in the bottom of each pack. I am unsure as to how to remove these safely with out damaging them. Does anyone have a good safe way to do this? I intend to check the crank and cam position sensors this weekend if I can find the time. I belive that if either of these sensors have faulty or no signal, then you will not get a spark, is this correct? I don't really suspect these sensors because I thought they would not be as prone to failing when the temperature is over 70 deg. I am guessing that they either work all of the time or not at all regardless of outside temperature.

I would really appreciate any other ideas or thoughts on the starting problem. The car only has 52K and is in great shape so I would hate to sell it. Electrical problems are not easy to pin point sometimes and you can spend a lot time troubleshooting. My local mechanic doesn't have a clue, he doesn't specialize in electrical problems like mine. Thanks for your help in advance!

dlmad
05-17-2005, 08:20 PM
You may need a new gas cap. If you have the wrong cap, or pressure isn't right, you will get a yellow "check engine" light. I would guess that your gas cap may not be venting, or sealing properly and that is why it is OK cold, or OK hot, but not in between. $10 try at a fix, (approx.) I just bought an AC Delco locking gas cap and noticed that my gas milage instantly improved. That's a $40 investment for the locking type.

Just a guess.

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