Changing Plugs on tritron engine

I have a 97 E-150 with a tritron engine. When I went to change the plugs I could not find any way to access them. A friend told me that you just pull the engine to change the plugs. This is practical since you only need to do it every 100,000 miles. I cannot find any explanation on how to actually access the plugs in a van. The only thing you are told is how to remove the coil to access the plug. I cannot even touch or see the coils, let along remove them.

Additionally I understand that these engines are very sensitive to torque specification for the plugs. The plugs can blow out if not done right. Additionally the coils are suppose to be sensitive and tend to break. It would be nice to be able to replace a bad coil without pulling the engine.

Does anyone know if the engine has to be removed to change the plugs or access the coils?

What you have heard about removing the enigne is just plain wrong. You DO need to remove the "dog house" or engine cover from inside the vehicle.

If your engine has "COP" (Coil On Plug) modules, all you need to do is take a 7mm wrench, remove the retaining bolts, unclip the electrical connector and tilt the COP outward and pull up. They will come right out. There is no need to keep them in any particular order.

You do need to have some di-electric grease on hand to coat the exterior of the boots, and put a dab inside the boot too.

Use EXTREME caution to remove any grit, dirt, or sand from the area around the plug boots BEFORE you remove them (compressed air or a vacuum works well). The spark plug wells are pretty tight, and sand can get stuck between the plug hex and the head preventing you from being able to get a socket onto the plug's hex to remove it.

Torque the plugs with DRY THREADS to 15 ft-lbs NO MORE, NO LESS. Ford lists various torques for modular enigne spark plugs, all are between 13 and 18 ft-lbs, with 15 the most common. You can even find all THREE applicable to the same exact vehicle, from the same service manual but in different sections. So 15 ft-lbs is considered the "real" value.

Changing plugs in an E-van is no fun. I'd rather pull the heads than change plugs! Depending upon your level of patience, you may find it necessary to peel several layers of parts out of the way to get to the plugs! The fuel rail, PCV and crankcase breather hoses all get in the way, among other things. My coworker did it without taking much apart, but all the time wondering how the hell I did a head job in one!

That's untrue of the modular engines, which his is. The SBFs in a Van are no fun, but still no worse than a product of General Morons.

The BBFs are comparatively easy, with the front jacked up slightly for access over the front tires.

It's not the position of the plugs that makes access difficult on E-vans. It's everything that's over and around them, and the working position (for some). Some hate working on their knees with their head under the dash. I prefer it to stretching out over the hood of an F-Series (I often pull the van seats out for better access on the big jobs). Also, there is a long reach down the plug hole, and limited room to lift the plug out with a long extension attached. Personally, I would rather change the plugs in a Chevy van with a small block than an E-series with the SBF or modular. Dodge, on the other hand, wins hands down for ease of changing plugs!

maybe pull your wheel off and peak past it you may just see all of them!