Hello all,

I hope you can help me. It's near time to replace the timing belt on my 1992 Escort, 1.9 liter engine, automatic transmission. I've attempted this task a few years ago only to be shut down when I got to the part where the big, 300 ft-lb nut on the crankshaft pulley needs to come off. The Chilton manual says to use a flywheel lock to prevent the engine from turning as force is applied to this nut, but they cleverly forgot to mention where this lock should be located. I looked around and couldn't figure it out. Perhaps remove the starter and apply it there? The other option, which is what the shop does, is an impact wrench. I don't have an impact wrench though.

Any thoughts?

Thanks

iF ALL ELSE FAILS TAKE A SPARK PLUG OUT AND STICK A BOUT 2 FEET OF ROPE DOWN THE HOLE THAT WILL STOP THE PISTON FROM COMING ALL THE WAY TO THE TOP AND THEN YOU CAN REMOVE THE NUT. MINE WASN'T THAT TIGHT. I GOT AT MINE FROM REMOVING THE TIRE AND BENDING THAT PLASIC GAURD DOWN. AFTER YOU GET IT LOSE YOU CAN TURN THE MOTOR BACK THE OTHER WAY AND REMOVE THE ROPE. GOOD LUCK.

Rope!

I'm not sure to embrace this as a brilliant idea or to run screaming, ha! That's great! I suppose if I make certain the piston (#1) is approaching TDC, there's nothing to damage inside the cylinder.

You say you've done this on yours?

The first time I changed mine I did it like this...place the socket on the bolt head and hold the top of the ratchet, take a hammer and give short sharp blows the the racthet handle. Now dont slam the thing so hard that youll break it but acouple of quick raps may break it loose for you.

ebritt, I think you have the answer. For some reason, I was under the impression that the bolt there was highly torqued, like 300 ft-lbs. I revisited the repair manual and saw that it's really only rough 95 ft-lbs. The hammer method you describe should work fine, as it has for other things in my garage. Just gotta keep the facts straight.

Thanks

Hello!

I took car of this over the weekend. Not too bad. I wanted to post a followup in case someone else needs to deal with this on their car, maybe my experience will be helpful.

Getting the crankshaft pulley bolt off was the biggest trick. I thought the suggestion to sharply strike a wrench attached to the bolt would do it, but it did not. It just turned the engine. Here's what I did. On the crankshaft pulley, there is an opening that is missing a tooth or two. With a socket wrench extension, I placed one end in this opening and the other end I wedged against the water pump housing (Sorry, I can't remember clearly now, I think it was the housing). With a breaker bar, I was able to turn the bolt. For installation, I wedged the extension against the bracket that holds the alternator, AC, power steering pump. You have to experiment with which end of the extension and how long an extension, but with patience, it's perfect.

The other key for me was this. I also replaced the radiator hoses, since they're original (!). The guy at the parts store gave me some Radiator Hose Grease. I didn't have any choice about using this stuff, I HAD to use it on the lower radiator hose, especially at the water pump. IT's very difficult to get on.

So, the car is together and runs good. Regrettably, I discovered that the coolant leak was really coming from the head gasket, not the thermostat housing.

Great.

Want an easy way to remove a crank pulley bolt?
Put a breaker bar on the bolt, brace it against the front of the car and turn the starter over, just make sure you have the breaker bar going the right way, otherwise it will hurt !!!
Haa!! Haa!!