just got back from LACR, help me out, quickest time was 18.1@75mph, it has cold air (from ebay, ?) aem cam gear (changed every run, didnt change time) and 4-2-1 ractive straight-pipe (no cat) header with apex-i N1 exhaust, tried without intake, tried without silencer, 18.1 18.1 18.1 again and again! i want edelbrock turbo kit......help

honistly that is a good time for your set up. if I were you id swap in a 5 speed, that will help you out alot with your times. if you want to go turbo you might want to start looking for a better base set up, you already have an 00, IMO thats the best style civic. maybe you should look into a complete JDM swap, that will come with a 5 speed tranny, probably shift linkage and id go with like a B16 if I were you, nice and light that is a much better base and probabbly wont cost much more then the turbo kit. then save up and turbo the B16


thats just my opinion of what i would do first.

nice times though for an auto
Kyle

i will look into that, i went with neighbor 88 crx with b18c1 edelbrock intake, aem ems, 7lb aluminum fronts, blah blah ran 12's all morning....jealous...

Damn 18.1, wake me up when your done :cwm27:

18.1
was this in your car or you running on foot?

just got back from LACR, help me out, quickest time was 18.1@75mph, it has cold air (from ebay, ?) aem cam gear (changed every run, didnt change time) and 4-2-1 ractive straight-pipe (no cat) header with apex-i N1 exhaust, tried without intake, tried without silencer, 18.1 18.1 18.1 again and again! i want edelbrock turbo kit......help

Odd, esp. with those mods that seems kinda slow. I'm wondering if your launch is what's hindering you... Also if you have like "17 wheels or a lot of weight in your car, then that will definitely slow you down as well. I myself have an auto DX and I'm pretty certain (though I have yet to track my car on the ¼th) that it's in the low 17's to high 16's area. Mods I have are short ram intake with A'PEXi filter on the end, A'PEXi World Sport exhaust, and B&M adjustable FPR set to 5psi above stock level (not that it does much of anything). Especially with my current wheel/tire setup, I find that just flooring the accelerator to the floor rather than torque brake launching gets me faster times. Since I have sticky Yokohama ES100 tires they aren't ideal for spinning off the line. So just flooring, letting the tranny take itself to the 6300 RPM shift point in first, then putting the stick in "2" and holding till about 6200 RPM and then shifting into "D3" yields the best times for me. You get the most speed, acceration and performance if you hold it till the max power peak point which is 6300 RPM for our motors (not always redline).

his car is a automatic DX last time i went to the track 5 speed EX's with only exhuast and intakes were running 17's some high 16's that time is what he should be running IMO also elevation has alot to do with it.

Kyle

his car is a automatic DX last time i went to the track 5 speed EX's with only exhuast and intakes were running 17's some high 16's that time is what he should be running IMO also elevation has alot to do with it.

Kyle

Very true. LA Co. Raceway is at about a 2000 foot elevation level if I remember correctly, out in the high desert of So. Cali.

Very true. LA Co. Raceway is at about a 2000 foot elevation level if I remember correctly, out in the high desert of So. Cali.
my brother's car is a 93 civ hatch dx w/ intake and a ractive catback exhaustw/103hp and he runs 17.2 in utah(4750above sea)

Well im at 5200 ft above sea level with a b16a2 160 hp engine...civic si 99...supposed to run 15.6 at sea level. I tested mine at sea level and I ran 15.887 and at 5200 ft, 17.027....Altitude fucking sucks!

hey matt, its me ryan, remember? dx club, lol, changed named, same guy hows the car (mines still slow...)

I dont really see a DX auto wiht only I/E, FPR hitting 16's. maybe but i just cant see it happening.

anyone know anything about the new edelbrock ball-bearing turbo kit for 6th gen civics??

I dont really see a DX auto wiht only I/E, FPR hitting 16's. maybe but i just cant see it happening.

Lighten up the suspension, super light wheels (heavy rotational mass can KILL times) I have no A/C as well, and get a proper launch and something in the low 17's if not high 16's is possible. I ran an SLK (non Kompressor) against my car once (from a few different lights) and if it could hang even with that (it was in Huntington Beach CA, so as sea level as one can get), then it's definitely not in the 18 second bracket, or even high or mid 17's. Maybe not high 16's but definitely low 17's.

hey matt, its me ryan, remember? dx club, lol, changed named, same guy hows the car (mines still slow...)

LOL, yeah I remember you. I'm not too worried mine can't kill an ITR yet, because I'll probably walk it come the first curve in the road anyways. ;) I'm not all about the straight line. I'm about the entire long haul! :cool:

I haven't yet heard bad stuff about the Edelbrock turbo kit. If I go turbo, that's the kit I'd like to get.

I dont really see a DX auto wiht only I/E, FPR hitting 16's. maybe but i just cant see it happening.
i didnt say auto. its stick and its a hatch.

ok, first, look at the mods I listed, then look at your sig. obviously Im not talking to you, 2nd, you dont have a dx auto, so again im obviously not talking about your car. I was talking to silvery2kcivic. and removing the AC pump doesnt really do much, unless you run your AC as your going down the track. the pump takes power to drive it when the air is on but when you arent runnign the air I bet it uses almost no effort to turn the pulley at all. and I know the heavy rims can slow you down, how big are your rims? and how heavy are the lil stockers?

honistly that is a good time for your set up. if I were you id swap in a 5 speed, that will help you out alot with your times. if you want to go turbo you might want to start looking for a better base set up, you already have an 00, IMO thats the best style civic. maybe you should look into a complete JDM swap, that will come with a 5 speed tranny, probably shift linkage and id go with like a B16 if I were you, nice and light that is a much better base and probabbly wont cost much more then the turbo kit. then save up and turbo the B16


thats just my opinion of what i would do first.

nice times though for an auto
Kyle

What he said or K20 (may be a bit pricey for now though) Carrrnuttt showed me a link to that one, they did it on a 6th gen civic. K20 would work perfect for a 7th gen civic and motor mounts is all you need together with what comes with the swap. :2cents: :2cents:

i got big plans. i found some rota 15's that look tight, the slipstreams or the ummmm the other cool simple design ones, i like the venom 2000 nitrous set-up, but i dont know if i want/need all the bell/whistle shit that comes with it. im feeling really stuborn about the base... i wanna keep the engine, cuz i have a spare head (y7 non-vtec) and itd be waste to change, plus i wanna run aem ems and they wont control automatics, i dont know where to go with it....cuz its never just done, like buy the nitrous, gotta get new fuel pump <~ example, its never finished and it bugs me getting back into the modding fever again

ok, first, look at the mods I listed, then look at your sig. obviously Im not talking to you, 2nd, you dont have a dx auto, so again im obviously not talking about your car. I was talking to silvery2kcivic. and removing the AC pump doesnt really do much, unless you run your AC as your going down the track. the pump takes power to drive it when the air is on but when you arent runnign the air I bet it uses almost no effort to turn the pulley at all. and I know the heavy rims can slow you down, how big are your rims? and how heavy are the lil stockers?

"15 @ 12lbs. per wheel. Stock for 6th gen DX's are "14 and weigh in somewhere between 18 and 21lbs. Not a big differance at first look, but since 1lbs. of wheel weight = 8lbs. of rotational mass when moving, those few pounds differance can add up pretty quick x4 wheels. I don't just have a missing A/C pump either, I bought my car with NO A/C when brand new. A/C is one extra thing for the pullys to turn rather it's on or off it's still rotstional inirtia that the motor HAS to spin around. Sure when removed it may not make much of a differance, but it's also a 30lbs weight reduction too and allows many more options in the future mod wise by not being there.

they cant weigh that much, (Ive always heard that 17's are alot heavier than stock wheels, and my tantrums(which arent expensive rims) only weighed 19 lbs each.

and it isnt each pound adds 9 pounds rotational weight, it is 1 pound of wheel weight increase is about 8-10 lbs static weight added to the car, so you took off anywhere between 192 to 360 pounds if your wheel weights are correct. the figure isnt always the same cuz it depends on how much weight is how far off of the center axis. but about the ac, sure the weight is out, but as far as the parasitic loss goes, ask the real experienced people here what they think, its muy oppinion as well as others I have read that the pulley only really requires power to turn it when the pump is under load, like when its idling and you turn on the AC, the idle falls cuz the engine just got robbed of some of its momentum and had to catch up with itself.

i saw a site and alot of 17's barely weigh more than stock 14's at all.

i saw a site and alot of 17's barely weigh more than stock 14's at all.


Most "17's are heavier than people think. a 16lbs. "17 is pretty exceptional for it's size. Most of your average "15 wheels weigh about that much. I've weighed mine myself and they are about 18 or so pounds. www.wheelweights.net lists the stock steelies at 21 pounds. That's a little far fetched to me though not entirely impossible. They definitely weight at least 5-7 pounds more than my current wheels.

And the calculation is 8 pounds of rotational mass to 1 pound of physical weight. You can ask CivicSiRacer up on that if you don't believe me. You did the math on the weight I took off my car. Take a Civic DX like mine, then put back on my factory wheels or just add a 200lbs. person to my current set up and you I'm sure know what that amount of extra weight can do to performance. Weight has a direct correlation with trap times. Even SCC mag did an extensive article on this subject, and found that adding 200 pounds of weight really makes a differance. Keep in mind their test car was a Suby WRX which has twice the HP as a DX Civic, so with my car the power loss to the weight shold be even more noticable. I shaved off 200lbs just by replacing my wheels with lighter, then minus another 30lbs. for having no A/C, and the list can go on if you factor in my lighter suspension setup, and lighter exhaust, or at least freer flowing and less restrictive. The facts can't be argued. Do the right things, and times you refuse to believe are easily obtainable with an auto Civic DX. :) I could really care less what my car can do in a straight line though since I have it built up for performance in auto-X where engine power isn't much of a factor in things as much as suspension setup and above all, driver skill.

the name civicsiracer sounds familiar where I got the 1 pound on the wheel averages about8-10 pouns on the car, maybe you got it backwards because the way your saying it COULDNT be right, you are saying if I were to get rims on my car and each one weighed 8 pounds more than stock it would have the effect as if I were to ad 4 pounds to the car itself. it has to be the other way around, adding one pound to the wheel averages about 8-10 to the car. go grab a 5 pound weight, throw it, then tie it on a string and hold about 8" from weight and spin it trying to keep your hand as close to steady as you can and youll see its harder to pull the weight one way when its trying to go the other. so you would have to throw a heavier weight to keep the required force the same amount. and Ive always just been told its an average of only aq tenth of a second off for each hundred pounds dropped, I know it has to differe with different power ratings and different weights of different cars. plus with a auto, they shift slow and ive never seen a civic auto take off of the line "quickly"

Most "17's are heavier than people think. a 16lbs. "17 is pretty exceptional for it's size. Most of your average "15 wheels weigh about that much.

True, most 17's are pretty heavy. Not all though. I know my wheels (CP-10's) are suppose to weight 1lb per inch, the 17's (what I drive on) are weight 17lbs, the 18" version 18 lbs. When I lift them, they do feel lighter than the stock steelies do. I'm not big into racing, but it's nice to have the lightweight 17's on the street. Less rotating weight to have to move, both to accelerate and stop. That reminds me, I saw the Blue SI, the plate said " 1 FSTSI." I thought this was ironic, sense he has a heavy as set of 19" (not kidding) chrome wheels and something was definatly funky with his lowering job (I didn't car to bend down and check it out in the parking lot, it would look bad, lol). Still, it was just plain sad...he professes his car's "speed" on the plate, yet has 19" chrome wheels and a hack lowering job. Now he needs to read up on this discussion and understand about wheel weight and the concepts of rotating mass.

the name civicsiracer sounds familiar where I got the 1 pound on the wheel averages about8-10 pouns on the car, maybe you got it backwards because the way your saying it COULDNT be right, you are saying if I were to get rims on my car and each one weighed 8 pounds more than stock it would have the effect as if I were to ad 4 pounds to the car itself. it has to be the other way around, adding one pound to the wheel averages about 8-10 to the car. go grab a 5 pound weight, throw it, then tie it on a string and hold about 8" from weight and spin it trying to keep your hand as close to steady as you can and youll see its harder to pull the weight one way when its trying to go the other. so you would have to throw a heavier weight to keep the required force the same amount. and Ive always just been told its an average of only aq tenth of a second off for each hundred pounds dropped, I know it has to differe with different power ratings and different weights of different cars. plus with a auto, they shift slow and ive never seen a civic auto take off of the line "quickly"

...but since 1lbs. of wheel weight = 8lbs. of rotational mass when moving...

And the calculation is 8 pounds of rotational mass to 1 pound of physical weight. You can ask CivicSiRacer up on that if you don't believe me.

I said it TWICE the correct way, what's so backwards about that? :rolleyes: :banghead: You really need to re-read stuff carefully before calling it out. You're completely mixing up TWO completely different things that I was saying.

Never seen a fast Civic? Obviously you haven't seen manuy then, but a 13 or 12 second Civic is FAST, and pretty fast for a car in general. Autos shift slow? Apparently not considering as the facts state, I raced an SLK with my Civic one time, and BEAT him, he was manual BTW. It's also a known fact that for the Mercedes SLK, the automatic models are QUICKER than the 5-speeds. Go figure... With a nice Level10 or TCI torque converter upgrade to my auto tranny like I plan on getting (2800 stall speed, etc...) it can out shift ANY 5-6 speed tranny. You Civics being slow idea just keeps getting faded more and more away. They aren't quick off the bat, they are an econo car after all, but they can be made to be quick when modded up properly.

True, most 17's are pretty heavy. Not all though. I know my wheels (CP-10's) are suppose to weight 1lb per inch, the 17's (what I drive on) are weight 17lbs, the 18" version 18 lbs. When I lift them, they do feel lighter than the stock steelies do. I'm not big into racing, but it's nice to have the lightweight 17's on the street. Less rotating weight to have to move, both to accelerate and stop. That reminds me, I saw the Blue SI, the plate said " 1 FSTSI." I thought this was ironic, sense he has a heavy as set of 19" (not kidding) chrome wheels and something was definatly funky with his lowering job (I didn't car to bend down and check it out in the parking lot, it would look bad, lol). Still, it was just plain sad...he professes his car's "speed" on the plate, yet has 19" chrome wheels and a hack lowering job. Now he needs to read up on this discussion and understand about wheel weight and the concepts of rotating mass.

Absolutely correct Eckoman. :)

I think it was Velox that makes a 12.5lbs. "17 wheel in the style of the Rota Attack model. :eek: :eek: :eek:

Also Rota makes various sub 18lbs. "17 wheels. But in general not taking tuner wheels into consideration, "17's are pretty heavy. I know the 5Zigen 5ZR Corpse wheels I wanted to get way back weigh a lot. Some 23.5 pounds if I remember correctly? Pretty heavy. Work Wheels makes a 16.8 pound "18 wheel, and SSR makes a 13.2 pound "17 wheel! Examples of some lightweight "17's. But in general "17 = heavy.

Absolutely correct Eckoman. :)

I think it was Velox that makes a 12.5lbs. "17 wheel in the style of the Rota Attack model. :eek: :eek: :eek:

Also Rota makes various sub 18lbs. "17 wheels. But in general not taking tuner wheels into consideration, "17's are pretty heavy. I know the 5Zigen 5ZR Corpse wheels I wanted to get way back weigh a lot. Some 23.5 pounds if I remember correctly? Pretty heavy. Work Wheels makes a 16.8 pound "18 wheel, and SSR makes a 13.2 pound "17 wheel! Examples of some lightweight "17's. But in general "17 = heavy.

Yes very true. I general, most 17's are heavy. A great number of people never conisder this and don't look for a lighter weight 17, they just buy what looks good, and it's often heavy and negitivly effects both performance and braking. If they just looked, there are some very good looking lightweight 17's out there in various colors. My 17's arn't the lightest set in the world, you named several much lighter. But they are definatly lighter than most 17's, and at 17lbs, are far from being "heavy" in most regards. As we've both shown, you can find lightweight 17's (and sometimes lightweight 18's), you just have to take the time and look. If you want a good lightweight set, it takes homework like we've done. Just going down to the corner tuner shop or tire store likwly won't find you any, or if you do, the selection won't be very good. 13.2 pounds for a 17? That is really light, it's amazing the low weight some of them have now. I know way back when I bought mine, 17 lbs for a 17 was really light. It's still light today, especially compared to most, but rims like those...wow...now those ARE light...lol.

ok, first, never said i havent seen a fast civic, and 2nd I was talking about a civic auto shifting slow. my sister has a 98 civic lzx auto and whikle it doesnt shift slow, it dont exactly shift "quick" either. I meant ive never seen a dx civic with an auto go off the line quickly. no power and no real launch, and sure you can mod the trans/TC to do so but have you? no. at leats you didnt say so if you have done it. and the way you say it still confuses me, cuz in my mind(even though i get it how you are saying it now and its the same as I see what I am saying) it is each pound of rotational weight(like wheel weight) requires the same force to propel it as 8-10 pounds on the car not rotating. when you say 8 pounds of rotational weight, to me it sounds like an 8 pound heavier wheel, and then you say 1 pound of physical weight, I think 1 pound on the car.

I now get that you meant 1 physical pound added to the wheel is like 8 pounds on the car when the wqheel is rotatting. sorry for the mixup.

Rotational mass means weight while IN motion.

There's no real differance between an auto DX and an auto EX. Oh let me correct, ANY DX will beat an EX off the line do to the crappy profile of the economy side of the VTEC cam. The single profile of a DX's non VTEC cam gives it more power and speed off the line than the EX's VTEC cam till the EX hit VTEC engaugment. Just some food for thought. ;)

Rotational mass means weight while IN motion.

There's no real differance between an auto DX and an auto EX. Oh let me correct, ANY DX will beat an EX off the line do to the crappy profile of the economy side of the VTEC cam. The single profile of a DX's non VTEC cam gives it more power and speed off the line than the EX's VTEC cam till the EX hit VTEC engaugment. Just some food for thought. ;)

That's intersting, I was not aware of that in regards to the AT DX versus EX. How many of honda's motor's is the similer true for in that respect, I wonder.

well, never said a EX auto would get off the line quick either, a honda civic auto aint made for racing pure and simple, even the 5 speed isnt but you can do it a bit better. and I know rotational mass is moving mass, but a 17 lb wheel weighs 17 lbs while it is spinning.

well ive seen ls's beat similar and higher modded GSRs off the line for a bit, but towards the end of second into 3rd the gsr goes flying by. well not flying by, but enough you can tell they definately got the faster car overall

and I know rotational mass is moving mass, but a 17 lb wheel weighs 17 lbs while it is spinning.

Actually no, that's the point. Sitting still yes, but once it's SPINNING it's weight is miltiplied by 8 for each pound of wheel weight. If you have a 10 pound wheel, it spins with the equivalent inertia of 80 pounds! It still PHYSICALLY weights 10 pounds, but the forse/rate that it SPINS at is making it as if weighs 80 pounds rather than 10 pounds. It's not that hard of a concept to grasp, althing it can get very technical and in-depth. All this aside doesn't even take into accound of tire weight.

That's intersting, I was not aware of that in regards to the AT DX versus EX. How many of honda's motor's is the similer true for in that respect, I wonder.

This is more applicable to the motor itself rather than the tranny being used. An auto DX vs 5-speed EX might fall dead even, but the DX could still get an initial "jump" off the line too. I just know that the Y7 motor is quicker off the line than the Y8.

I wouldn't be surprised if this fact would hold true for B18 motors (say LS vs. GSR) but I can't confirm for them.

And actually back to auto Civics, it should hold true weather auto or manual since all D-series Civics within each of their own generation uses either the same auto tranny or 5-speed tranny (DX would have same tranny as EX).

Ol' SILVERY2KCIVIC getting fired up!! SY2k, you always teach me some good shit. I din't know about the difference in cams between those two. I know the dx is vtecless, but not that the ex had a faggot-ass econo cam profile along with the vtec one. Thanks for the learning lesson. I had a frien that HAD a dx 98, and we'd run neck to neck for the first bit. I just thought that I sucked at driving. It's good to hear that someone other than me is coming up with excuses for my piss poor driving. ;)

This is more applicable to the motor itself rather than the tranny being used. An auto DX vs 5-speed EX might fall dead even, but the DX could still get an initial "jump" off the line too. I just know that the Y7 motor is quicker off the line than the Y8.

I wouldn't be surprised if this fact would hold true for B18 motors (say LS vs. GSR) but I can't confirm for them.

And actually back to auto Civics, it should hold true weather auto or manual since all D-series Civics within each of their own generation uses either the same auto tranny or 5-speed tranny (DX would have same tranny as EX).

Well, 94tegRS said he has noticed similer in ls versus gsr with the B18 motors.
well ive seen ls's beat similar and higher modded GSRs off the line for a bit, but towards the end of second into 3rd the gsr goes flying by. well not flying by, but enough you can tell they definately got the faster car overall
It sounds to me like this holds true for most similer motors in regards to vtec versus non-vtec. Of course, we really can't confrim it yet just based on what we've noticed so far, but the information sure as heck is looking and pointing that way.

18.1 @ 75mph...uh that's um....really really slow...I've seen vans faster than that...are you sure you don't have a serious problem under your hood? something has to be wrong under there..that's like...90hp! you either have a 10000000watt 4857438543 speaker stereo in your trunk and 9 tvs...or your engine is dying. who did your work?

dampachi, its just plain slow. its automatic, and no big sound system, just a pioneer premier deck, 6.5" doors speakers, (not even components) and upgraded 6x9's. i have a 1 farad cap left over from previously system that got swapped to girlfriends jeep, but no, its just slow, i head 75 mph is a high mph for a 18 sec run.... lol , i was laughing it off saying "atleast i was consistent" i dont know where to go mod-wise, like 10 way fork in the preverbial road.

oh yeah i went over timeslips and my first run was 18.0 51 @75.090mph. and went downhill from there, oh yeah, matt, would a aftermarket cam for a ex head solve this econo-grind shit on the pre-vtec lobes??? matt, ever think about an ex head for yours, just for mod-ibility? and an extra bolt on 20hp??

oh yeah dampachi, i was the slowest car there, there was a mid 90's suburban running high 15's....

oh yeah i went over timeslips and my first run was 18.0 51 @75.090mph. and went downhill from there, oh yeah, matt, would a aftermarket cam for a ex head solve this econo-grind shit on the pre-vtec lobes??? matt, ever think about an ex head for yours, just for mod-ibility? and an extra bolt on 20hp??


It probably could for the EX. As for me, I have thought about a mini-me swap (swapping on an EX head) but what I hear is it's not as good as an EX motor from the factory, though it'll be better than a factory DX motor. The way to go might be an A6 head which still adds the same power increase, but still is VTEC'less. I might do that eventually here, but still not sure. In the mean time I'm still going to get a cam re-grind from Delta Cam for my Y7 motor which will add at least 10hp to my power rating. All for the good price of $65 plush shipp fees. :cool:

i've also read that A6 pistons will bump up the C/R to 10.1:1.

I don't mean to come off sounding like a dick disrespecting your car or anything..but if you're trying to build a racecar...that things a lost hope. I'm serious when I say just buy something else..you can get yourself a nice little EK for a couple Gs and work with that. but yeah, I think it's kind of dumb to 'soup' your car up just to be runnin' with SUVs.

no disrespect taken, its a slow car.

I don't mean to come off sounding like a dick disrespecting your car or anything..but if you're trying to build a racecar...that things a lost hope. I'm serious when I say just buy something else..you can get yourself a nice little EK for a couple Gs and work with that. but yeah, I think it's kind of dumb to 'soup' your car up just to be runnin' with SUVs.

Well, no offense, you came off as an ass. This isn't the first thread where you have taken to bashing someone car, a d-series, or a car "pushing 125HP." To quote you from another thread, you said "You see, it's sad when you 'trick your ride out' and you're pushin' 125hp at the wheels..ya' know? It should be some sort of crime." First off, me more respectful of others and don't just mouth off and be rude. Neither he, nor the guy in this thread, said they were trying to build a super fast car, a drag car, or a race car. There are different reasons people build, and that effects what they do to it. Take SilverY2KCivic for example, his car isn't built for drag racing. It's by no means the fasted civic on here speed and straight line wise. But go against it at an autocross course. That car is built to handle. So what if he's "pushing 125HP." That car is not sad buy ANY means. It handles very well. It was never ment to go in a straight line fast. It was ment to handle well, so it could take an autocross course fast. A Civic with more power built for a drag strip might have more power, but it would be no means take his car in autocross or "through the twisties." Secondly, in regards to this thread, if you had read the whole thread, you'd realize he has a 2000 civic....an EK...so why suggest he "just buy something else and get yourself a nice little EK..."...he has an EK. Second, he's not trying to "soup it to run with SUV's." You say you're not trying to be a dick, but all comments like that do is show you're being one, whether you were trying to or not becomes irrelivant. There are many ways he can build that car, without "selling it for a new one." Are you even familiar with Hondas at all? Or do you only know what your friends tell you and what you read. First, he could swap in a manual tranny. If he wants to stay AT, he can send it to level10 and have them bulletproof it, optimize the shift points for power versus economy, etc. He can re-sleeve and build the motor, then boost it. OR do that and thrown in high C/R pistons and go NA. He can swap in a B-series, use that as a base platform and do the same listed above. It really doesn't matter. The point is, he would have KEPT HIS CAR, and would be MUCH FASTER. That would be, as you put it so eloquently, "kind of dumb to 'soup' your car up just to be runnin' with SUVs." The point is, the thing has not lost hope. It's a 2000 Civic, not a 350Z running like that. Before you go insulting people and being rude, try and know what your saying first. Otherwise you just come off sounding rude, or as you put it in your own words..."as a dick."

yeah, what he said! go my-suv-smoker

Yeah, first of all I said EK...I didn't mean that I actually meant EG...but oh well. Secondly yes I hate the D-series. I have a terrible grudge against D-series engines because I own an '02 civic sedan and if I can recall it has a D17A? Yeah. and that engine has done nothing but be a problem. Now I said the whole racecar thing because well...he's posting his drag times...so going fast in a straight is obviously something he wants to do. and when I was making my 'pushin' 125hp' comment I in no way was directing that to that guy. it just so happend his cars HP and the HP number I had in mind were the same...now what i was thinking about when I was saying that was a certain car magazine had in their power pages a 1994 integra LS and after putting in about $3,000 on the engine....they were making a good 125hp and so anyway back to what I said...if you'd read the line "IF you're trying to build a racecar...that's lost hope" so yeah.

if you'd read the line "IF you're trying to build a racecar...that's lost hope" so yeah.

Oh really? Ever heard of Bisimoto (Bisi E.) D15 (not 16, or 17, but D15) ALL motor, power numbers were never really published by him or his team, but it's the fastest ALL MOTOR D-series on the planet, under 11 second ¼ mile times before he retired the motor in trade for a SOHC F22 motor. I don't see the lost hope for people that try it... :banghead: :nono: :disappoin If he can do, certainly so can anyone else. Don't hate just because your D17 owns you right now. :loser: Things can be done to make it quicker and better. Read up and research before you go dissing and raggin' on it or anyone elses of equal.

first of all I said EK...I didn't mean that I actually meant EG...but oh well.

This first sentance just makes absolutely NO sense. I wish people could be forbidden to make comments until they make some actual sense. :screwy:

And for the record, I plan on getting some ¼ times eventually here. Because I want to go fast? No, I just think it would be cool to have slips no matter the time on them just so I can say I have some. I already know my car is fast where it needs to be, and can guarantee it'll leave many others in the dust, all in it's 115 or so HP glory. ;)

Yeah, first of all I said EK...I didn't mean that I actually meant EG...but oh well. Secondly yes I hate the D-series. I have a terrible grudge against D-series engines because I own an '02 civic sedan and if I can recall it has a D17A? Yeah. and that engine has done nothing but be a problem. Now I said the whole racecar thing because well...he's posting his drag times...so going fast in a straight is obviously something he wants to do. and when I was making my 'pushin' 125hp' comment I in no way was directing that to that guy. it just so happend his cars HP and the HP number I had in mind were the same...now what i was thinking about when I was saying that was a certain car magazine had in their power pages a 1994 integra LS and after putting in about $3,000 on the engine....they were making a good 125hp and so anyway back to what I said...if you'd read the line "IF you're trying to build a racecar...that's lost hope" so yeah.

If you knew anything about the B18B1 (called the LS), you'd know that power output number is what it SHOULD HAVE BEEN MAKING AT THE WHEELS STOCK!!!! That motor they used (it was Import Tuner you are thinking of) was old and tired. A B18B1 should have a stock at the wheels power output of about 124-127hp and 117ft/lbs of torque. This is a crank number of 142hp and 127 ft-lbs of torque. For $3,000, that B18B1 should have been making a HELL of a lot more than 125 after spending $3,000. Obviously, that motor was having issues. You can't use that as a comparison for all Honda's. I have an LS. I am WELL AWARE of what they can do and are supposed to do, output wise. Also, some people post drag times for fun, not to "race." Read SilverY2KCivic's post. Also, maybe the guy just noticed "hey, my car don't seem to have the speed I think it should, baed on my times." Not trying to race, it, maybe he does it for fun, and noticed that. Don't come in here flaming and being an ass when you don't have a clue what your saying. You statement and comments on the LS prove that. I quote..
it just so happend his cars HP and the HP number I had in mind were the same...now what i was thinking about when I was saying that was a certain car magazine had in their power pages a 1994 integra LS and after putting in about $3,000 on the engine....they were making a good 125hp and so anyway back to what I said...

If you really knew what you were saying, really new motors, like I said, you would have know straight from the dyno numbers baseline, that LS had major issues. It was old and tired. A stock LS in good condtion should have baselined at the numbers that one dfid after all that money. Also, don't go hating on the D-series because YOURS SUCKS. If we have a Civic, unless we have a Del Sol Vtec or a 99-00SI, we all stated with a D motor. Just because your motor blows and you don't want to build it doesn't mean it can't be done. As SilverY2KCivic pointed out, Ever heard of Bisimoto (Bisi E.). To close all this I'll say, in regards to your, I ment to say EG, not EK comment. It doesn't matter what you MEANT TO SAY when your trying to be an ass, it matters what you said. So try and lighten up and show some respect. The way your acting is a quick route to receiving none.

Yeah, first of all I said EK...I didn't mean that I actually meant EG...

I don't know about you, but I would think that it would be a little more expensive to import a JDM civic than to build his D-series motor to an extent that is.

I got owned.

I got owned.

Pretty much, and with that this thread is now closed. Nothing further to discuss short of this thread turning into a piss fight.

Ryan, just get more seat time at the track, and practice your launch technique and reaction time. I dunno what else to really say, just keep trying man. :)