If I had 1.5 G's lying around how much HP could i get out of my engine if I threw all this money into modding my GT. Please let me know here. I want a powerful sleeper, then can even beat some stock GTP's.

That's a good question Justin, one i'd like to know myself, but like $1500 can go a decent waydepending on how you use it. I've looked into it and you can do a lot of mods to your car for free or real cheap, gut your air box and drop a k&N in, new plugs and wires are cheap, synthetic oil (doesnt really make HP, but it does make the engine run w/less resistance), and getting into the money, start with a reprogrammed PCM for $300, ignition coil packs for $150, roller rocker arms & pushrods for like $450, new cam for $300, new downpipe and high flow cat for $350, and a dynomax exhaust for $450 and to really feel it a thrasher transmission shift kit ($100) to put some real snap into your hard work. but as far as the true HP output you would have to put it on a dyno.

(Tell ya the truth, thats like the stuff I want to do to my GT)

well this is what im planin 2 do to my gpgt2000... its gona run u more that 1500.. but i think its worth the extra cash..
Borla cat-back exhaust system.. 742.00..
the new s.d. grand prix ram air hood. 725.00 + 20.00 boxin fee.
SLP cold air induction system (selection: 3.8l v6 kit w/ ram air inlet for 1999 and up gp's.) 199.99
roller rocker arms and pushrods.. 450.00.

that all comed out to... 2136.99... give or take a few bucks..

and if you want the outside lookin hot too... im getin the...
american eagle 176 rims.. size and finish: set of 4. 18" x7.5" chrome.. for 949.00
and the street scene speed grills four piece set for... 129.99..

you would also need new tires but i gota look into that... so the total of the outside mods i listed are... 1078.99...
well those are the mods i want.. if anyone has any comments or opinions for me... drop a line... all help is needed...

Well, to get performance with a low budget. It is important to get a reprogrammed ECU(PCM). Throw in a high pressure fuel pump. Use bigger fuel injectors(lit transam's) and use a K&N high performance filter. After you do this you will feel a respectable power increase without investing a lot of money

NO to the fuel pump...NO to the injectors! Unless you're running a GTP with higher amounts of boost, you don't need the extra fuel! It also requires PCM tuning for the car to run at it's peak.

I also don't suggest getting a cat-back system. It's much cheaper to have an exhaust shop weld a custom one. Besides...mufflers DO NOT add performance. This has been proven already by several GT owners.

If I were working on a $1500 budget, I'd do this:
From www.3800performance.com
TOG Headers + extra coating (<-Is a must) - $790 (On Sale Now)
SLP 1.8:1 Aluminum Rockers & Pushrods - $467 (On Sale Now)
DHP Reprogrammed PCM - $295

http://ww2.netnitco.net/users/cheetah/k3022.html
Wrapped Cheetah FWI Pipe - $95

I know that's a bit over $1500, but performance isn't cheap.

Personally, I'm going with an L67. Costs too much to get speed out of a L36. :disappoin

I also don't suggest getting a cat-back system. It's much cheaper to have an exhaust shop weld a custom one. Besides...mufflers DO NOT add performance. This has been proven already by several GT owners.

so ur sayin if i get the borla cat back exhaust system... i get no more horses?? then what s the point of the exhaust system..??

so ur sayin if i get the borla cat back exhaust system... i get no more horses?? then what s the point of the exhaust system..??

You will gain some HP, just because the system is less restrictive than the stock system. But the gain is not worth the $700+ cost IMHO. The same gains can be had for around $250 at most competent exhaust/muffler shops.

And I repeat that mufflers do not add HP. They modify your exhaust note, but do not have performance gains. Unless you go with straight through mufflers which are damn loud and would probably get you pulled over in most cities.

[QUOTE=The Burning Rom]NO to the fuel pump...NO to the injectors! Unless you're running a GTP with higher amounts of boost, you don't need the extra fuel! It also requires PCM tuning for the car to run at it's peak.

I also don't suggest getting a cat-back system. It's much cheaper to have an exhaust shop weld a custom one. Besides...mufflers DO NOT add performance. This has been proven already by several GT owners.

If I were working on a $1500 budget, I'd do this:
From www.3800performance.com
TOG Headers + extra coating (<-Is a must) - $790 (On Sale Now)
SLP 1.8:1 Aluminum Rockers & Pushrods - $467 (On Sale Now)
DHP Reprogrammed PCM - $295

http://ww2.netnitco.net/users/cheetah/k3022.html
Wrapped Cheetah FWI Pipe - $95

I know that's a bit over $1500, but performance isn't cheap.





nothing more to say about this, he's got it.

In Numbers, how much hp should my car be at after i throw down b/w 1.5-2 G's. like 2-- somethin wise?

[QUOTE=The Burning Rom]NO to the fuel pump...NO to the injectors! Unless you're running a GTP with higher amounts of boost, you don't need the extra fuel! It also requires PCM tuning for the car to run at it's peak.

I also don't suggest getting a cat-back system. It's much cheaper to have an exhaust shop weld a custom one. Besides...mufflers DO NOT add performance. This has been proven already by several GT owners.

If I were working on a $1500 budget, I'd do this:
From www.3800performance.com
TOG Headers + extra coating (<-Is a must) - $790 (On Sale Now)
SLP 1.8:1 Aluminum Rockers & Pushrods - $467 (On Sale Now)
DHP Reprogrammed PCM - $295

http://ww2.netnitco.net/users/cheetah/k3022.html
Wrapped Cheetah FWI Pipe - $95

I know that's a bit over $1500, but performance isn't cheap.






nothing more to say about this, he's got it.


That looks nice, but, looking at the chetahh tube.
Where the ECU(PCM) will be stored?
WHat about wet roads and splashes?
Do you have one installed?

In Numbers, how much hp should my car be at after i throw down b/w 1.5-2 G's. like 2-- somethin wise?


Well could be around 50 ponies. A little more or little less.
What is important here that some of the mods would enhance
your torque.
When you have more torque it is easier for the car to attain
speed because is stronger. The HorsePower tells you how quickly
a car can rev up. The TOrque is how much it can carry(you can
think about this like weight) when reving up.
The more torque the better because will have strength to keep
your car going fast on heels or when on hard manouvering.
Keep that in mind.

For 1500 I'd do what Rom is doing. L67 Swap

The L67 is a hell of alot cheaper bang for the buck when it comes to modding.

I think that modding a L36 is pointless unless you go with some kind of FI.

Tim

Well I respect what Rom and Ripn say. But if you do not have a lot of money increasing fuel flow into the combustion chamber and installing a means to push a little more air in will do a nice improvement.
I have a GTP and now what you mean people, but aslo have a Z-34 for which there is nothing and you know there is nothing to enhance it.
SO without modifying the engine internals added a bigger fuel pump, bigger injectors and opened the intake a little(got rid of the box) and the car improved like 15 hp.
And the investement did not reached $450.00

hey that fwi works pretty tight on my car. and my car runs a lot better wit and i got a gt. putting the K&N in a box i think sucks. water i really dont have a problem wit . it wont suck it up unless u goin thur some serious puddles. i live in fl so i rain aint a problem here. fwi is worth the money i think

When you install a cheetah pipe, the PCM is either zip-tied to the frame or put in a PCM tray (either ZZP, or one from a Trailblazer). The cone does not get bothered by the elements, provided that you don't go driving through any deep water-filled holes.

As far as HP you'd see after the mods, EVERY CAR IS DIFFERENT. Case in point, you take 10 stock cars straight from the factory..chances are they're all going to run different times in the 1/4 mile. That's why you can pick up a motor trend and a Car & Driver and see different times for the same model. It's because the test cars they had were two different cars.

I agree with Ripn12s in the respect that the L67 swap is the best way to go..you get more for your money. That's why I'm doing it. It's not for everyone though. It's not cheap to have done, unless you're doing it yourself. And if you're doing it yourself, it's not exactly an easy thing to do. And it all depends on what your goals are. Me...I have the opportunity to use the dyno at a local place fairly cheap (8 pulls for $50), so I decided to go all out while I have the chance.

I would either put 4g's together and purchase this -

http://www.zzperformance.com/zzp/products/csc/centrifugal_sc_kit.htm

along with headers and a catback

or purchase this

http://www.nitrousexpress.com/ART/products/1/StageOneL.png

along with headers and a catback

fyi - the dynomax catback is pretty much a stock exhaust system with super turbo mufflers...stay away.

The fastest naturally aspirated GT in North America is owned by Wes Blair and runs a 13.352 quarter mile.

I don't know about HP tho.

Wes Blair does not have the fastest GT, Vanessa (insert last name here cuz i dont know it) has the fastest GT I thought? But she had to have a modifiyed 3.8 that was turned into a 4.1 liter.

He has the fastest naturally aspirated, she may have added a turbo or supercharger.

I thought she had a Monte. Either way..whatever car she has does have the prototype stroker kit in it, IIRC.

I have a GTP and now what you mean people, but aslo have a Z-34 for which there is nothing and you know there is nothing to enhance it.
SO without modifying the engine internals added a bigger fuel pump, bigger injectors and opened the intake a little(got rid of the box) and the car improved like 15 hp.
And the investement did not reached $450.00


ADDING A BIGGER FUEL PUMP AND INJECTORS WON'T DO CRAP!

Stock injectors are fine....They will not be maxed out unless you are heavily moddified

adding more fuel to an engine will just slow it down if it is not needed.

No Vanessa has a black gt I seen it when I was picking up and engine at zooomers shop.

ADDING A BIGGER FUEL PUMP AND INJECTORS WON'T DO CRAP!

Stock injectors are fine....They will not be maxed out unless you are heavily moddified

adding more fuel to an engine will just slow it down if it is not needed.

You are correct(If the fuel volume pumped on the injector open cycle is a little more and no additional air flows in).
GP VIN 1 vehicles are equiped with a higher PSI/VOLUME fuel pump than VIN K because they get more air in the combustion chamber by means of the SC.
But if you install a higher VOLUME/PSI fuel pump and wider mouth injectors on N/A vechicle more fuel will flow in the combustion chamber even tought the injector open cycle time stays the same. Now if the higher VOLUME/PSI and wider mouth injectors are installed then more air has to flow in by means of a less restrictive pasage, cooler air(denser air) or other means into the combustion chamber(Cone Air Filter Maybe) so the higher fuel amount has enough air to burn effectively and therefore get a little more power.
What I installed on my Z-34 did not gave me ~35 to ~50 hp increase. Just a modest ~5.

Thanks for your comment.

who makes the stroker kit for the 3.8 and how much $$$$$ are we talking?

GTPKLR: Send a PM Message to Ripn12s or The Burning Rom or even GTPCatz. They are verse on parts like that and costs.
Usually there are sites like www.3800performance.com that might have the parts you need

ZZP is coming out with the stroker kit

I have a 98 GT (obviously by the name) and I've looked into gp mods pretty heavily. And the L67 swap is your best call. There are so many possibilites for the l67 than the 36. It has all the same mods and more. Plus its a 40 hp gain for anywhere from 700-2000 bucks, depending on where u get the motor and if u install it urself. Plus not having the P on the side of ur car will make it a nice sleeper.

ZZP has a kit out to "take your daily drivin L36 into the 14's" now it's only 600 bucks now is it too good to be true? or will this kit preform?

it all depends on howmuch money you want to pay...here is my research so far, since i have a gt as well...

Naturally aspirated
Rocker Arms (ZZP): +15 hp $350
High Velocity Throttle Body (ZZP): +7 hp $180
Reprogramed PCM (ZZP or PFYC) +20 hp $295
GT2 Cam (ZZP): +30 hp $300
Fender Wall Intake: +15-20hp $varies
Total + 87-92 hp $ 1100-1200 (rounded)

Bolt on Centerfuga SuperCharger Kit (ZZP):
Stage 1: +60-79 hp $3149
Stage 2: +80-90 hp $3499
Stage 3: +100 hp $3899
Stage 4: +285 hp $4899

Various Nitrous Systems can be added for varying hp gains and prices
Zex (PFYC): 75 hp $515

L67 swap can be done for about $1000-$1200 through ebay if you get the auction at the right time (this includes a whole engine and the tranny)

and don't forget about modifying the rest of the car to handle the increased hp and speeds. the tranny can be switched for a beefier GTP tranny...i recomend the thrasher shift kit for harder shifts...suspension mods(springs, struts, strut tower bars) for better handling and probably most important nice soft z-rated tires to grip the road and insure stability at higher speeds (good tires will improve handling as well).

That is correct and also do not forget about braking too. What is the use of having good road grip, added power and lame brakes? In my after all the mods where installed I had to but on at least vented and ranurated rotors to enhance braking...

What I meant is that after all the mods(performance) where performed I had to install vented/ranurated disk rotors to enhance braking.

If I had 1.5 G's lying around how much HP could i get out of my engine if I threw all this money into modding my GT. Please let me know here. I want a powerful sleeper, then can even beat some stock GTP's.


Basically the GT could be modded to beat a STOCK GTP and even a lightly modded GTP. Modding is not a one day thing, it takes time. You have to feel how your car is responding to it, which one's better and you'll be doing a lot of research. Everybody says something different about particular product, some would work well for some, and some don't. Also, First of all there's an order in modifying, you can't just install a 1st stage cam without modding your intake, your u-bend and DP (down pipe). You have to clear those restrictions first. A gutted airbox is one, but if you have the money try a CAI. I particularly gutted my airbox and fabricated a large openning to the fender instead of that 3 in. pipe openning. I also gut the pastic behing the air filter, now it breathes and could actually hear it whenever I start the car. I thermal wrapped the f-duct, IAT sensor and airbox too.

Second, get a DP. Like the RT DP or M and S. You'll get a 3 in. DP, a high flow cat and the u-bend deleted to a straight pipe. One of the biggest restrictions on the GT and GTP is the u-bend. The stock catalytic converter also is restrictive compared to high flow cats. You can also replace your resonator with just a straight pipe with 2.25 to 2.50 in. dia. up to the Y pipe. After these, get some underdrive water pump pulley and you could add a underdrive alternator pulley.

Third, a High Velocity TB (throtle body) is available at Intense Racing or ZZP. This one's ported with a bigger butterfly or valve for more air passing through your TB. There's a free mod in your stock TB, remove the TB screen.

Now by the time you get these, start feeling your mufflers if they're able to accomodate the higher CFMs your high flow cat is producing and the bigger intake your car is inhaling. If you change to a cat back with all mandrel pipes you'll probably add a 5-7 HP. with cat back alone. For a GT don't go too big with the pipe dia. you don't want to lose your low end torque!

Fourth, rocker arms are good up top (top end power) maybe around 15-20 HP. But a 1st stage cam or even a stage 2 is more powerful. Around 20-50 HP. depending on supporting mods like headers (TOGs). With a stage 2 cam, you'll need to chage your pistons, torque converter, valve springs, pushrods and you should have already a DHP or a reprogram PCM. But more people like the DHP. The addition of a shift kit will make your shifts firmer, DHP gives the skip on shifts. It makes driving really exciting and fun.

There are lots of mods, go to clubgp.com it's all there. Also, you cant have high ratio rockers with cam (1st or 2nd stage) unless you have the short block race ready enging. It's really hard to explain everything, reasearching and reading peoples experience is the key. 'Cause people are sometimes happy with their mod some feels like they just wasted their money.

I myself like a powerful normally aspirated enginge, it shouldn't be categorized with the Forced Inductioned cars. But then if you're really serious with drag racing or racing for that matter, then FI has the leverage. .........But then you the new GTO, 5.7 V8 LS1 engine, normally aspirated. There's just too much going on with cars.

[QUOTE=bcreverend] the tranny can be switched for a beefier GTP tranny...[QUOTE]


I disagree....the GT has the better tranny or at least gearing
I think there is a kit to make the GT tranny a HD tranny....keeping the original gears (3.29) but adding a little more beef.

I had to install vented/ranurated disk rotors to enhance braking.


thats really optional I dont think vented brakes help you stop any better....it just helps disapate heat
If your car is a daily driver you dont need vented brakes....they look cool though!

I would go with the 12" brake upgrade....its a much better performance upgrade then getting stock vented....now you can still get vented or drilled in the 12" but thats up to you.

Well if you do a cam and rockers your definetly gonna have to have alot of head work done. Your valve hieght will be to high otherwise. Plus when doing cat back don't buy borla/slp/dynomax or whatever. You can have a custom exhaust made at almost any exhaust shop for 1/3 the price, just get some nice mufflers. Also personally if you're looking to have a fast gp don't go naturally aspired. Its not worth it. A naturally aspised FWD V6 can never be extremly fast. Also check out http://www.intense-racing.com/ they are coming out with a turbo kit in spring/summer. That can make a huge difference on your car.

I live in Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada. We have temp extremes. Hot Summers and Cold Winters. We also get lots of snow. Will these mods be fine under harsh winter conditions. I need to know because my car is a 4 Season vehicle. And is it possible to get a list of mods to do in orderly fashion as on what to do first. I got $1500.00 for this. Please be specific and well detailed. I want to try and beat a stock GTP. Plus I kinda wanna know what my HP will be at from 200. Please & Thank You!

I wouldn't be so quick to do an L67 swapp right now. There are a lot of nice toys comming out for the L36 this spring. The GT can be made fast enougth to take on stock GTP's, but once they do a pulley swap..... it's all over.(At least untill the turbo kit hits the market).

I live in Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada. We have temp extremes. Hot Summers and Cold Winters. We also get lots of snow. Will these mods be fine under harsh winter conditions. I need to know because my car is a 4 Season vehicle. And is it possible to get a list of mods to do in orderly fashion as on what to do first. I got $1500.00 for this. Please be specific and well detailed. I want to try and beat a stock GTP. Plus I kinda wanna know what my HP will be at from 200. Please & Thank You!

Winnipeg! Me too! I run a 2000 Bonneville SSEi (Supercarged L67) and have similar questions... where do I get the most bang for my buck and how does the performance of these mods (and gas milege) hold-up under these temperature extremes.

I'm mostly interested in better ignition and a pulley swap but need to know if I lose gas mileage with a 3.4, and if I go smaller like a 3.25 pulley does that mean I am losing even more? And if so, is it mostly worse in city or hwy? I do a lot of both.

Comments anyone?

I heard an after market PCM would likely cause a loss of gas mileage - can anyone confirm? I don't really like being regulated...was still sinking in my seat from accelaration on open hwy when my speedometer stopped at 200 Km/h (130 m/h).

Justin, I'm in St. Vital and my 2000 SSEi is a dark red metal flake with the 18" chrome mags. If you ever spot me, be sure to challenge me! :)

Comments anyone?


Man this was old thread! Last post before yours was over a year ago.
Go with the 3.4 SC pulley.

i wish i could put a cam in my ride, labor is way more the the cam cost.... :(