I want some info on what mods to do on a KA NA. All I can find on any forum or any search i put in is mostly SR with a little KA-T in there. Anybody with any knowledge of mods to do to a KA would be greatly appreciated.

BTW its a 93 240sx SE with a KA24DE in it. I haven't bought it yet, because I want to know what potential it has without a turbo. And don't think I'm a dumbass and don't know turbos. I know the KA was built with the intention to turbo it, I would just rather spend the money elsewhere.

Id say you could get into the 13's with natural aspiration, drivetrain mods, and some weight reduction.

The head is pretty free flowing, I would get some Titanium Valve Springs and retainers from Ferrea. I would get some aftermarket Stage II+cams. Header, test pipe, 60mm catback, Throttle Bodies or a Cold Air Setup, higher compression pistons, underdrive pulleys, and a ecu tune/stand alone.

lightweight Flywheel, Stage I/II clutch, lightweight driveshaft, Quaife Differential, 245 sized tires, lightweight 16"/17"*8" wheels, Electric Fans, Electric Water pump, remove Air Conditioner.

thats it in a nutshell, plus weight reduction

this wouldn't be that great on the street, Ultimately a turbo ka should beat you, on a race track or auto cross, I think the NA setup is better.

Yeah, I'm not completely againt Track or Autox, I'm just sayin that this is also gunna be my DD. I got nothin against showin it off every once in a while.

Oh, and negative on removing the AC. It hits 100+ here durin the summer.

Thank you for the advice, but could yoiu also list some preferred brand names.

And also does anybody else have something to say? Or is SR20DETpower the only one who knos anything about KAs?

well he pretty much covered a lot of stuff, but just to go over my list of things I had when I was planning on buying a 91 240sx with plans to go N/A... so this is some stuff I got... companies are just my opinions:
Fluidyne radiator
thermotec cooling material
port and polish and rebuild the engine(pistons, rods, gaskets, valves, cams, etc.)
jim wolf technology ecu
hks or apexi exhaust
high flow cats
K&N intake with customized piping and custom cold air box
downpipe
hotshot header
bigger injectors
Tomei fuel pump
fuel rail
NGK, Denso, or Splitfire spark plugs
Nology or accel ignition wires
Greddy, Unorthodox Racing, or ASP pulleys
Apexi AFC (air-fuel controller)
lightend flywheel
B&M short shifter
flex-a-lite electric fan
alternator


well thats about all I can think of at the moment, but good luck if you decide to do it, I think it would be a fun car, just get it to 200hp and do some weight reduction, let us know if you buy the car or not

Yeah, my goal is actually to hit 200+ hp, and it can be done. Right now I'm thinking:

Radiator - OEM/Fluidyne
Cooling Material (Maybe) - Thermotec
Rebuild (last thing I'll do, it doesn't need it)
ECU - Jim Wolf
Exhaust - Apexi Dual N1's (Most likely)
Cats - Don't know
Intake - Injen (Most likely, but K&N's look good too)
Headers - Hotshot
Pulleys - Unorthodox
Fan - Still deciding
Alternator - Still deciding

Most of this was from Soyo's advice, and some were my own preferences. If I didn't include something then it either doesn't need to be done, I don't feel like I should have to, or I still haven't concluded which to use.

Anybody elses advice or opinions would be appreciated, I can't just go off one person.

yeah 200hp can be done easily i think. up your compression 1 level, get all the bolt ons, and get some cams with titanium valve springs and retainers so you can rev higher. The new cam will allow you to rev high so you have to take advantage of it.

Yeah, my goal is actually to hit 200+ hp, and it can be done. Right now I'm thinking:

Radiator - OEM/Fluidyne
Cooling Material (Maybe) - Thermotec
Rebuild (last thing I'll do, it doesn't need it)
ECU - Jim Wolf
Exhaust - Apexi Dual N1's (Most likely)
Cats - Don't know
Intake - Injen (Most likely, but K&N's look good too)
Headers - Hotshot
Pulleys - Unorthodox
Fan - Still deciding
Alternator - Still deciding

Most of this was from Soyo's advice, and some were my own preferences. If I didn't include something then it either doesn't need to be done, I don't feel like I should have to, or I still haven't concluded which to use.

Anybody elses advice or opinions would be appreciated, I can't just go off one person.
injen intake?? NEVER EVER pay for an intake....

make your own short ram cold air

Yeah, injens are expensive. But ppl who I know who have them say they're worth it.

yeah an injen is gay, if you are going to stay naturally aspirated......move your battery to the back and make the intake goto the passenger side front of car. Shorter tubing, less heat soak, and a more direct route into the throttle body. do it right, K&N filters are the best, they can be cleaned and used forever, don't buy some cheap 10 dollar shit off ebay if you are really going to use the filter and keep it for a long while.

im tellin u, MAKE A WHOLE with a dremel or something where the battery is and do a COLD AIR SHORT RAM!!

is da shiet

im tellin u, MAKE A WHOLE with a dremel or something where the battery is and do a COLD AIR SHORT RAM!!

is da shiet

I already knew I was doing a cold-air. And I'm getting mixed feelings about injen vs. K&N. I just decided fuck injen and I'll either do custom or go K&N.

haha ... 200hp from n/a mods................... muahahahahhaahahhaaahahah

wow

you guys dont know what you're talking about! sr20... you should know better!



here's my 240sx with EVERY SINGLE BOLT ON

Performance ($2990 +1025L)
Injen Cold Air Intake, Extension & Heat Shield ($400)
HotShot Header ($450 +$200L)
Cool It Thermo Tec Header Wrap ($50)
Cool It Thermo Tec Intake Wrap ($50)
Random Technology Super Hi-Flow Catalytic Convertor ($250)
Apexi Dual N1 Catback Exhaust System ($600 +100L)
Apexi 90mm Super Silencers ($125)
12" Flex-A-Lite Electric Fan (1250cfm) ($150 +100L)
UR Ultra S Lightened Underdrive Crank Pulley ($250 +150L)
Gates A/C, Alternator and Power Steering Belts ($50)
Aluminum Racing Radiator ($275 +200L)
Auxillary Transmission Cooler ($50)
Denso Iridium Spark Plugs ($50 +50L)
Bosch Premium Spark Plug Wires ($25)
255lph Walbro H/P Fuel Pump ($100 +75L)
300zx TT Fuel Filter ($15 +10)
Mobile 1 Synthetic Oil (+$25 every change)


i put down a wopping 140hp at the wheels. i thought i had the fastest car in the world, until i took it to the track and ran a 17.2 with the interior completely gutted.

sure it was an auto and a single cam, but there's not much difference between the 2. if your going to put money into a 240sx either turbo the engine or swap it out. there's no way you can get a n/a past 15's.

no way. don't even try.

I tell ya what... If ya go to PlanetPerformance.com and go by vehicle type then you can get an extra 140hp from ECU upgrade, ECU controler, new cat. conv., Headers, Full exhast, Pullys, Ignition Amp., and a k&n filter. They show how much HP you will gain when you look at the product too. All of it costs about $1300 and if you put a 75 shot of Nitrous on it you will be putting out a total of 355hp. realnissan.com also has turbos that will add around 200-250hp.

Damn... I completely blanked about PlanetPerformance. I haven't been there since I helped my friend with his supra.
And also ka24de.com has decent stuff too. Only because it's actually custom built for the KA.

Performance ($2990 +1025L)
Injen Cold Air Intake, Extension & Heat Shield ($400)
HotShot Header ($450 +$200L)
Cool It Thermo Tec Header Wrap ($50)
Cool It Thermo Tec Intake Wrap ($50)
Random Technology Super Hi-Flow Catalytic Convertor ($250)
Apexi Dual N1 Catback Exhaust System ($600 +100L)
Apexi 90mm Super Silencers ($125)
12" Flex-A-Lite Electric Fan (1250cfm) ($150 +100L)
UR Ultra S Lightened Underdrive Crank Pulley ($250 +150L)
Gates A/C, Alternator and Power Steering Belts ($50)
Aluminum Racing Radiator ($275 +200L)
Auxillary Transmission Cooler ($50)
Denso Iridium Spark Plugs ($50 +50L)
Bosch Premium Spark Plug Wires ($25)
255lph Walbro H/P Fuel Pump ($100 +75L)
300zx TT Fuel Filter ($15 +10)
Mobile 1 Synthetic Oil (+$25 every change)

sorry man, but those mods aren't going to do shit. intake+header+cat+exhaust=dick without a/f adjustment. you're probly running hella lean because you're able to get more air in and out easier, but your injectors are still injecting the same amount of fuel that the stock restrictive intake and exhaust allow.
even with a/f adjustments, they aren't going to add a whole heck of a lot.

with some worthwhile mods like high compression pistons and cams, you can get over 200hp.

Ok, now I haven't gotten much advice other than what I already knew, but some of you have been really helpful.
So can some other ppl give me a setup like what Soyo did, or change the one I listed. Also listing them in the order of which should be done first.

you're not going to start seeing some good horsepower until you play with the a/f ratio and spark timing throughout the powerband
i don't see if theres a good order to get things, ideally they should be done all at once but few people's budgets allow that.
here's a list of suggestions, sorry not in order-

-apex'i s-afc
-cai, custom like stealth said (i thought i was the only one with that idea :p )
-enlarged MAF (not sure how to do this, but a shop around milwaukee did it)
-ported throttle body (or even better, individual TBs)
-port matched intake manifold
-(i hear the DOHC head flows good enough without porting, which i believe because chris may's 400+hp 240 didn't have any porting done)
-header
-2.5" cat-back
-cams (research A LOT into this, look for one that will give you power in the middle of the revband- where long stroke KAs naturally make the most power)
-check that the valves are seating properly on their seats
-timing chain replacement
-flywheel
-pulleys
-PS removal
-AC removal
-electric fan
-my guess is the stock radiator could hold up at 200hp, but not if the car will be tracked
-aluminum driveshaft
-high compression pistons
-your stock rods should be fine- they are forged and should handle 200hp depending on condition
-lighten crank - i believe its called bullnosing the crank, in which a shop slices off part of the balance lobes to make it slice through the oil more easily and to lighten it

...can't think of any more right now

have you been to www.ka24development.com ?

Yeah, I've already e-mailed the guy.

And thank you for the imput spitz.

Can somebody tell me what exactly the air-fuel controllers do? And why they are so valuable to this and everybody elses modification process?

in order to make the most power your engine is capable of, you need to have the ideal air-fuel ratio and the perfect spark timing. a free flowing intake will cause you to run slightly lean compared to stock. (stock isn't necesarily the best a/f ratio since nissan has to take fuel consumption into consideration)

go carb and you dont have to worry about any air fuel computer shit

And carb would make it a whole new pile of shit... So the computer shit is the way to go? and do I have to buy the computer and do all the adjusting or can I take it in and it's a one-time deal.

you buy the computer- it looks like a car stereo face sorta- and you adjust it yourself. with most power mods it's going need to be adjusted a little. a dyno would be best, but i have a friend that just adjusted his based on seat-of-the-pants impressions. get a wideband o2 sensor and a good a/f gauge so you can see where you're at.

another type of fuel computer, quote from nsport.com-

ARC2: The ARC2, designed and built by Split Second, is by far the best dedicated fuel controller we've ever seen. Included in the system is a replacement 83mm MAF meter. A further upgrade is an even larger, freer flowing 87mm MAF meter.

Here Is My Unproven But More Than Likely 200hp Method:

Ka24e 2.6 Or 2.7l Stroker Kit
10 To 1 Compression
Lightweight Forged Pistons And Rods
Knife-edged Crank
Hi-volume Oil Pump
Lightend/underdrive Pullies
Lightend Cam Gear
Medium Lift/longer Duration Cam
Titanium Valvetrain
Port/polished Head
3 To 5 Angle Valve Job
Lightend Flywheel 10lbs Or Less (for Auto Guys Go Flex Plate-less)
Headers
2.5" Header Back Exhaust
De-cat
High Volume Water Pump
Aluminum Radiator
Aluminum Driveshaft
Lsd
Aluminum Cv Axles
Get A Nismo 5th Gear Set For The Tranny
Itb System Or Short Ram Air Intake
New Manifold For Intake If Short Ram Is Used
Larger Throttle Body
Stand-alone Or At Least Ecu Tune/afr Tuner
400cc Injectors For Higher Rpms

This Is Unproven And Expensive As Hell But It Should Get You Where You Want To Be.... But Your Idle Will Be Lumpy.

increase the KA's stroke? that's crazy shit. do people do that?

YEAH WWW.IMPORTPERFORMANCEPARTS.NET HAS A KIT SLATED FOR THE END OF THIS YEAR OR EARLY NEXT YEAR. IT CLAIMS 30% INCREASE IN TORQUE AND UPTO 40HP. NOW MATCH THAT WITH LIGHTEND INTERNALS, BETTER CAMS, LIGHTEND CRANK, HIGH FLOWING OIL AND WATER PUMPS, 10 TO 1 OR HIGHER COMPRESSION AND YOU COULD GET SOME SERIOUS POWER WITH THAT KIT.

wow, thats cool shit

why type in all caps?

hes at work

Nismo Of American Has A Race Crank And Stroker Rods, Well They Did In 2002 Anyway. This Was For Both Engine Iirc, And Yes I'm At Work (thanks Stealthj).

Here Is My Unproven But More Than Likely 200hp Method:

Ka24e 2.6 Or 2.7l Stroker Kit
10 To 1 Compression
Lightweight Forged Pistons And Rods
Knife-edged Crank
Hi-volume Oil Pump
Lightend/underdrive Pullies
Lightend Cam Gear
Medium Lift/longer Duration Cam
Titanium Valvetrain
Port/polished Head
3 To 5 Angle Valve Job
Lightend Flywheel 10lbs Or Less (for Auto Guys Go Flex Plate-less)
Headers
2.5" Header Back Exhaust
De-cat
High Volume Water Pump
Aluminum Radiator
Aluminum Driveshaft
Lsd
Aluminum Cv Axles
Get A Nismo 5th Gear Set For The Tranny
Itb System Or Short Ram Air Intake
New Manifold For Intake If Short Ram Is Used
Larger Throttle Body
Stand-alone Or At Least Ecu Tune/afr Tuner
400cc Injectors For Higher Rpms

This Is Unproven And Expensive As Hell But It Should Get You Where You Want To Be.... But Your Idle Will Be Lumpy.
estimated cost = more than an rb26tt

:lol:

why does that matter that your at work...you can go up to about 11.5:1 on pump gas but go a little lower since its a daily driver so you engine lasts longer an is more reliable

Ok, the guy from KA24DEvelopment just e-mailed me back and said I would be lucky to get up to 170rwhp. and the fastest hes seen ran a 15.2. So I'm feeling a little discouraged about this project. Also the fact that all of this will be more expensive then just getting it turboed in the first place.

I'm going to test the car and all that fun stuff tomorrow... And possibly buy it. Please say it has more potential then just 170hp for over $1500... If not, I'm sad to say I'll just go turbo.

why does that matter that your at work...you can go up to about 11.5:1 on pump gas but go a little lower since its a daily driver so you engine lasts longer an is more reliable
cuz the fuckin keyboard has caps lock key always on.....

that kinda funny

Ok, this is what I'm gunna do. I'm just gunna get intake, exhaust, header, LSD, and a stage II clutch... Because I'm really not into spending $3600+ on the N/A setup. So I'll just lay back for a while with all that, and do some more research. And then after a while, and some savin up money I'll decide... turbo or N/A.

Thank you everybody for you're help, I will keep you all updated on whatever, and continue visiting the sight regularly to ask questions or offer help in my limited areas of knowledge.

Once again, thank you very much.

Ok, this is what I'm gunna do. I'm just gunna get intake, exhaust, header, LSD, and a stage II clutch... Because I'm really not into spending $3600+ on the N/A setup. So I'll just lay back for a while with all that, and do some more research. And then after a while, and some savin up money I'll decide... turbo or N/A.

Thank you everybody for you're help, I will keep you all updated on whatever, and continue visiting the sight regularly to ask questions or offer help in my limited areas of knowledge.

Once again, thank you very much.
EXCELLENT conclusion

spending thousands on NA is not worth....well i mean, sometimes its worth it

but as in turbo or NA, i reccomend engine swap....way more worth it man!

lateZ

yup yup good call

Well everybody, I got the car. First thing it needs is new headers and exhaust. And suspension's not too far behind. Intake I'll do along with exhaust and headers. And all this, except suspension will be done soon. But the first thing of all.... A system. It came with the faceplate, now I need good speakers, subs and an amp.

Hey He Asked If He Could Hit That Horsepower And I Gave Him A Concoction To Do So.... No One Put A Monetary Constraint On This.... :)

Yeah You Would Be Looking At At Least $5800 For That.

headers, test pipe, catback, filter, clutch, high compression pistons


thats all you need to get 200hp. Now if you want to help driveability of the car and make it rev better, have a higher redline, I would build up the valvetrain. Bump the compression to 12:1 and you should be putting down around 195hp just from that. At that level adding a header will give you more then 3hp it does on a stop engine as well. All the drivetrain mods don't really do anything either, they just help out.

So to say you could spend all that on a RB is wrong. RB would cost a hell of a lot more for less. 5k for the stock engine, another good 5k for customization and wiring.... ok 10k for a stock engine. Stock open diff, stock clutch, stock exhaust everything. I would rather spend 10k and completely build up the engine of said car and make it better.

fully built up drivetrain, naturally aspirated ka24de, built to the extreme, stand alone engine managment > stock rb26dett swapped into a stock s13 chassis, IMHO. Defintely be much more fun to drive, while your hearing your cool little turbo spool and spinning tires with your 5k pos when it breaks your SOL, meanwhile dude has something completely sick sounding show stopper completely built up, and he just put the hurt on your GTR engine, how is that going to make you feel hahahaha.

I would say you could get a tuned N/A s13 with supporting mods and chassis lightening into the 13's. Shit if hondas do it a KA24 with a hell of a lot more torque will do it lol. Don't think just cause most people run in the 16's, 15's and maybe 14's doesn't mean thats as fast as it can go. I've never seen a tuned N/A 240sx either. Seen a couple ka24de engines in datsuns and they run 12's. Naturally aspirated ka24's laying the hurt down on corvettes, sti's, evo's, camaros, mustangs haha, the engine has plenty of potential. Most 240sx tuners are interested in JDM hype, engine swaps, and turbos.... the trendz..
and they don't focus on other aspects that could make it good.

Datsun 510s Also Weight About Half As Much As Our 240. And To Say That A Rb Series Engine Is Going To Cost 10k Is Ignorant, My Rb20 Swapped Car Cost $3800 To Get It Running Including The Car. Thats 200hp The Easy Way. I Would Love A 200hp Na Ka24e I May End Up Doing One Too.

Rb20det is a lot easier to install and costs less then 1/5th of a Rb26dett for just the engine. Then you have to get custom manifold and turbo setup or customize your steering column, as well as buy another transmission from the rb25. Rb20det is pretty much a straight forward swap compared to the Rb26.

most everyone i have ever known to swap a rb26 into any car takes around 10k to do it. This isn't my assumption, its what I have seen. it wouldnt take too much to lighten up a 240sx either, you could easily knock off a few hundred pounds which will help out a lot in every department.Not to mention a RB adds weight, while customizing your KA is going to reduce its overall weight through various things such as pistons, rods, maybe driveshaft, flywheel, pulleys, header, exhaust, intake, all slight things but it all adds up. Plus with N/A you also do not have any turbo lag and if tuned right you will have a much broader torque curve that is more usable.

Like I Said It Is 200hp The Easy Way. The Rb20 Only Adds 60-75lbs. Removing The Rear Interior Removes That Weight, S13 Front End Would Also Remove That Excess Weight W/ Just The Conversion. Body Panels Can Go Fiberglass/cf, Interior Can Be Gutted/lightend, Wheels Can Be Lightend, Suspension Can Be Lightend, Engine Can Be Lightend, Drivetrain Can Be Lightend, Etc. Ant It Will In The End Cost The Same As It Would With Upping The Ka Power.

Plus with N/A you also do not have any turbo lag and if tuned right you will have a much broader torque curve that is more usable.

if you do it right, turbo lag will be extremely minimal and the turbo car's torque curve will have much more area under the curve than its N/A equivelant.

any turbo where you will make any horsepower has lag, I mean do i look at the same dyno charts as all of you? LMAO you see where it begins to climb at 3-4k rpm..... that is turbo lag....

they make fast spooling turbos now that make peak boost at a little over 3000rpm and hold it all the way till redline. like 26psi too. turbo lag is a thing of the past.

sometimes turbo lag is good though, like if your dragging, you won't smoke youe tires off the start and once the turbo is spooled up, in second or even first gear, your gone...but thats only with big turbos

any turbo where you will make any horsepower has lag, I mean do i look at the same dyno charts as all of you? LMAO you see where it begins to climb at 3-4k rpm..... that is turbo lag....


That is not turbo lag. Theres lag because he's doing a 3rd gear pull. If he were on the street, he'd be in 2nd gear already at full boost. You dont know what you are talkin about. If he were on the street, most likely they'd be building boost already (even 'n third gear). In many cases, with a small turbo, boost can be built at 2000 RPM which is hella quick.

most cars don't even make full boost in 1st or 2nd gear though. Also dyno pulls would matter even less since there is less strain on the vehicle, it is easier for the engine to do work. simple physics.

and we aren't talking small turbos here, I just said any turbo that makes a lot of power, that would be something big as in t4 or bigger. They have a lot of lag..... ever hear of single turbo t88 supra? I guess they are so modern they don't have turbo lag huh? lol
:banghead:

yesterday i decided..

today i got,....

ca18det 1200 for a front clip

rb20det was the same price....

i reccommend anyone who wants power to do an engine swap...i duno why, but just do it,,,it is so much easier and funner

if your on a budget, then swap,....

if u got the cash....build up the KA

im talking N/A KA...build it up right....THEN turbo it after u build it up......

Ur not gunna turbo that mother after you put some 11.6 or 12:1 pistons on it. And I'm sure some of the others you use for N/A won't work with the turbo.

then build it up for turbo

most cars don't even make full boost in 1st or 2nd gear though. Also dyno pulls would matter even less since there is less strain on the vehicle, it is easier for the engine to do work. simple physics.

and we aren't talking small turbos here, I just said any turbo that makes a lot of power, that would be something big as in t4 or bigger. They have a lot of lag..... ever hear of single turbo t88 supra? I guess they are so modern they don't have turbo lag huh? lol
:banghead:

on cars with good turbos, the lag is barely there, have you ever driven a turbo car to its limit? anyways, you should only barely feel lag in first gear, shifting at redline. my friend has the t4 turbo, and i dont really feel lag in his car.

stealthj... your back? what happened i thought you were banned?

on cars with good turbos, the lag is barely there, have you ever driven a turbo car to its limit? anyways, you should only barely feel lag in first gear, shifting at redline. my friend has the t4 turbo, and i dont really feel lag in his car.

stealthj... your back? what happened i thought you were banned?
man, how can i be banned? i am a shareholder of Automotive Forums CO LLC INC.

i want to paint my sidemount and move it to the front!!

even a new evolution has turbo lag.......

The E.T.s you'll see are more dependent on tuning. A man has a website, search for "240sx performance", his 240sx se with full interior runs 14.9 in the 1/4. Mods were intake, exhaust, header, JIM WOLF ECU, and pulleys. In my personal 240SX LE/S I can outrun sport compacts that have been tested in mid 15s easily. The last race was against one of those new Tiburon GT V6s. I pulled him by about 3 lengths in 1st gear and 2 lengths in 2nd and 2 more in 3rd. The older 17X bhp GT V6 ran high 15s and the new one has an extra 10-11 bhp. The 240sx LE/S is lighter than the SE by, oh, say 100 lbs. It has steel wheels which increases the rotational inertia, thus, reducing acceleration. Even so, based on the cars I've beaten and the lead I had at the end of the race, I'd say I'm running e.t.s < 15.3 seconds. My mods are as follows: no engine fan, de-catted, no muffler, S-AFC, and ignition tuning. With intake, header, sport cam, port work, and milled head (for a compression bump) 13.7 sec E.T.s should be attainable.

most cars don't even make full boost in 1st or 2nd gear though. Also dyno pulls would matter even less since there is less strain on the vehicle, it is easier for the engine to do work. simple physics.


less strain on vehichle = less exhaust gasses
that is why you can spool an auto trubo car in drive by holding the brakes, but you can't spool a manual turbo can in neutral very well, because the auto turbo car is under load, while the manual tranny car is not.
what cars don't make full boost in first or second gear?

and we aren't talking small turbos here, I just said any turbo that makes a lot of power, that would be something big as in t4 or bigger. They have a lot of lag..... ever hear of single turbo t88 supra? I guess they are so modern they don't have turbo lag huh? lol


we aren't talking small turbos? i believe it was you who said any turbo has turbo lag. you don't need a t4 anymore to start making serious power. there are t-28 turbos that bolt on to the stock t-25 dsm manifold that are good for 12 second pulls. why run a bigger turbo then you need to? if you're running a t88 on a supra, you better be making over 1000hp, and in that case, yes you would have turbo lag, but that's because YOU'RE MAKING OVER 1000HP! in realistic hp terms, you do not have to worry about lag. we are talking about our small displacement 240sx's here, don't expect huge hp at 1500 rpm- turbo or n/a.

even a new evolution has turbo lag.......

yeah and the 4G63 t25 is an extremely advanced turbocharger :rolleyes: