Taurus Heater Fix!!

Backflushed my 98 Taurus heatercore as per FIREMAN's instructions (hot water etc..) Now my heater is blowing toastie warm (HOT!!) again!! worked like a charm :iceslolan Thanks FIREMAN!!!

I have the same problem, but I'm a novice. Can you provide a step-by-step on how to do this? Please include a description for identifying the place on the heater core to "attach the garden hose".

THANK YOU SOO MUCH FOR YOUR HELP!!!

Anybody?? I'm in the same predicament and would like specific instructions. I feel confident doing the work, if I know what I'm suppossed to be doing.

For a 98 Taurus, would I disconnect the black coolant hoses going into the firewall and then put the hose into the hole in the firewall to flush with hot water? If that is not right, someone please correct me.

Thanks.

Anybody?? I'm in the same predicament and would like specific instructions. I feel confident doing the work, if I know what I'm suppossed to be doing.

For a 98 Taurus, would I disconnect the black coolant hoses going into the firewall and then put the hose into one of the holes to flush with hot water? If that is not right, someone please correct me.

Thanks.

On my 98 the hoses that go to the heater core can be seen pretty easily by looking at the middle of the firewall... follow the 2 hoses coming into the engine compartment till you find where they connect to another hose and remove the hose clamps.. this is where you put the gardenhose-- water flowing towards the firewall... your heatercore is under your dash you can't see it! I put my garden hose on both of the hoses alternating it back and forth from one to the other to make sure I got all the junk (sediment etc..) washed out. Also before I did this I had changed my thermostat. Good luck, I hope this helps!

I used the "garden-hose-to-flush-out-the-heater-core" technique last night and I now have heat in my 96 (not 98 as I erroneously said above) Taurus. I couldn't access the clamp/clip on the bottom hose going into the firewall because even my shortest pliers hit against the engine, so I traced both hoses from the firewall to the engine and disconnected there. I flushed probably a total of 15 minutes with the jet nozzle on my garden hose, alternating from one side to the other. It was after dark, so I would stop every couple of minutes and check the runoff on my driveway with the flashlight to look for rust-colored sediment floating away. After the water was clean (about 10 min), I flushed 5 more minutes for good measure. I put everything back together, refilled the coolant and went to get some gas. After the engine warmed up, I felt heat for the first time this season! :lol2:

One side note, since I put everything back together last night my factory radio has been cutting out every once in a while. At first it was on for 10 seconds, off for 5 over and over. Then the "on" time started getting longer. I think it may be that some water got in the wiring somewhere, but I don't know for sure. The radio stayed on all the way in to work this morning, but cut out again when I went to lunch. Like I said, the time that it stays on is getting longer but I hope this isn't some new problem I've created. It isn't warm enough here for the water to evaporate quickly (low-30's overnight & upper-40's today), so the problem may just go away over time. If no one responds to this problem here, I'll post it as a separate message.

Glad to hear you have heat!! I didn't suffer any radio probs after flushing my core so I can't give any real advice...but it sounds like something got wet, hopefully it will dry out in time.

I have the same problem and I found a different and much easier fix for this (Don't know how long it lasts yet...) I was checking my hoses going into the heater core to see if both were hot and the outgoing hose was, in fact, cold. So, in a pitiful attempt to do SOMETHING, I thought I would squeeze the hoses where they are rubber right up against the firewall... Kind of like pumping the bulb on a fuel line for a small outboard motor for a boat. I thought this might dislodge anything stuck in the heatercore, and to my genuine surprise, IT WORKED! I have heat for now and it took only a matter of minutes.

I realize that whatever was clogging it up is still in there somewhere and will likely clog things back up again, but for now I have heat. It's worth a shot before you go and do all the work of flushing the heater-core (not that it's that hard anyway, but I live in an apartment and cannot do it there...)

Anyway, thanks for all the suggestions here and I hope I have been of some assistance.

I also have problem with my heater. It have never blow hot air out, unless I am running on the high way (2000 rpm up).
I just replace the heater core, the process is horrible (All the instrument panel has to be remove.). I am also replace the thermostat valve. Now everything still the same.
One thing that I know is the hose to my heater core keep cold, even the one to my radiator is too hot to touch.
Are there anybody has idea? Please help I am freeezing here.

I would say it's your heater core not getting any flow like mentioned above, but if it was just replaced, that is unlikely... Make sure you have enough coolant in your car: if you don't have enough, you don't get much heat at all, and another possibility is that you have air in your lines... from what I have been told, a good way to fix this is to run the car for a minute or so when the radiator cap is off... There may be a much more effective way to do this so if someone knows, post it here.

Hope some of that helps: living in Minnesota, I know EXACTLY what it is like to have no heat. Good luck!

just went to PEP Boys to have my cooling system flush coz coolant is turning brown. I taught that it would help my heating problem but still didnt work.
Do I have to do it directly on the heater core?

Yes. From what I understand, a normal coolant system flush doesn't do much for you heater core because you have to BACK flush it to get all of the sediment and crap that is clogging it up. Try the garden hose trick: seems to have worked for a lot of people here and is not that hard to do if you have a place to do it. Good luck.

Ok, here's my story. I have a 99 taurus wagon. I have had the heater core flushed multiple times and I have the bypass hose clamped off so all the radiator fluid is going through the heater core. I also have covered some of the radiator (like the big rigs do in the winter). Still no heat. The hoses going to the heater core are hot and the temp gauge never goes above 1/3 hot. Since I have covered the radiator I have heard the cooling fan go on several times.

There is some heat but it never gets hot. The faster the fan is on the colder the air that comes out of the vents.
Any advice?

Thermostat!!

That's the first thing I replaced....

Next!

Got Heat Now. But I Needed To Replace My Heater Core, Wasn't Able To Flush It Directly Coz It's Too Cold Here In Ny. As Per D Mechanic This May Happen Again Because Of The Rust Coming From Engine Block, Is There A Way We Can Stop This Rust Fr Engine To Heater Core?????? Is Ther A After Mkt Filter??? And Also Do You Guys Know Wher To Get Flush Kit For Heater Core???

OK I have a question. If i can get fluid to run through my heater core does that mean it is ok? Or can the heater core be bad (as in not be able to transfer heat) and still allow fluid to pass through it?

Hey PD, I have been having the same problem, 98 sedan.

Did you ever get this fixed?

I have replaced the thermostat, back flushed the
heater coil.

Thanks, getting cold again

just went to PEP Boys to have my cooling system flush coz coolant is turning brown. I taught that it would help my heating problem but still didnt work.
Do I have to do it directly on the heater core?


You don't say what year you have but there was a problem with the GenIII cars concerning the coolant turning brown. There is a kit to install that allows coolant to bypass and flow. Your whole cooling system can become clogged and rusted out including freeze plugs if you don't get it installed.

Mike
:smokin:

It is a 98 sedan, I had no over heating problems all summer.
my temp gauge runs at 1/3, runs very cold, any ideas?

Hey doggie, what did you do to fix your heat problem, I'm having
the same problem

I have a 1999 Taurus to with almost no heat.I replaced my steel lines going to and from the heater core, they were all rusted and when I removed them they broke. MY FORD dealer flushed the heater core and the entire system last winter when I had no heat, he got the vent temp up to about 140%. I wanted to try to flush the system this year to see if I could get it a bit warmer. Well when my steel lines broke I replaced them with Gates heater hose and Gates elbows to resemble the old steel lines. When I flushed the system and got the whole thing running I went for a ride and my vent temp is up to 170% to 160% depending on fan speed. The cost to replace the steel lines was about 20 bucks for hose,clamps and connectors....ED

what about your tempature gauge, mine seems to run
bewteen 1/3 and 1/2 half on the gauge.

I think my problem is the temp never really gets hot

I can remember the last time the cooling fan came on

Ok, here's my story. I have a 99 taurus wagon. I have had the heater core flushed multiple times and I have the bypass hose clamped off so all the radiator fluid is going through the heater core. I also have covered some of the radiator (like the big rigs do in the winter). Still no heat. The hoses going to the heater core are hot and the temp gauge never goes above 1/3 hot. Since I have covered the radiator I have heard the cooling fan go on several times.

There is some heat but it never gets hot. The faster the fan is on the colder the air that comes out of the vents.
Any advice?

If both hoses to the heater core get hot, but cold air blows into the cabin, your blend door is stuck, or the controls for it are broken.

My 1999 Taurus gauge reads at about 1/3 or 1/2 depending how you are looking at the gauge. My needle on the gauge never changed even when my vents were blowing cold air it still read the same as now. My heater works fine now without changing the heater core. Let me know if you have any luck.................Ed

How does someone test the blend doors?
Can I see them under the dash board?

If you have done all of that the only thing left is the blend door.

The heat is always available from the heater core. The blend door opens and allows that hot air to be distributed inside the car. When it doesn't open you don't get any heat.

Mike
:smokin:

i have a 98, i have had the same problem for 2 years. i changed the thermostat and backflushed the heater core 3 times. i have checked the blend door, it works fine, full travel in both directions. it almost seems like the air conditioning might be working or something?????? if i dont get some heat soon, my wife's gonna be bitchin'.....again........ i dont want to put it in the shop to have some guy rip me off for a new core and thermo and whatever else he can think of! maybe its in the steel lines, i dont know!!!!

adding fluid seems to help mine, maybe a leak some where.
I was thinking about crimping the line that goes between
the 2 steel lines for the winter to see if it helps

i flushed my core again today, flushed all the lines. no heat. so i drove around praying for heat, and got some. actually pretty good heat, but only when im driving. if i stop, it goes cool. if i go, it goes hot. coolant level is correct. i dont know, but at least now i have some heat. hope it lasts.

i flushed my core again today, flushed all the lines. no heat. so i drove around praying for heat, and got some. actually pretty good heat, but only when im driving. if i stop, it goes cool. if i go, it goes hot. coolant level is correct. i dont know, but at least now i have some heat. hope it lasts.

#1 - You have air in the system. As you drive (engine speed increases), the faster spinning waterpump creates a larger pressure differential, and coolant starts flowing through the heater core lines. You can test this by revving the motor and holding at 2.5-3k while sitting still.

#2 - Flaky EATC driver board.

#3 - You have a weak blend door actuator. More common on Caravans than SHO's, weak blend door actuators will not open the door to the heater core air path until you get the rpm's up. The SHO's door is possibly operated by an electric motor so this may not apply, but it is something to look into if #1 and 2 are not your problem.

how do you get the air out of the system???

thanks

i put a new radiator cap on and the heat is much better. we will see when it gets really cold.

My father-in-law also told me to check the hoses leading to the heater core. He said there is a valve that opens when compartment heat is called for from the temp control switch. My lines where hot so I didn't bother to look and see if such a valve exists. Just a thought.

FYI: Using a digital volt/ohm meter, the current between the negative battery post and the coolant (insert postive probe) with the enging running should be less than .04 volts. Anything above will cause electrolysis and cause repeated heater core failue. They recommend a coolant flush if that is the case.

Thermostat!!
Hi There, Brand new here 1 day, My wife has a 98 taurus, did the heater core twice, new thermostat,flushed entire system, both hoses are HOT going into heater core and coming out,door opens,under dash. Our local ford dealer ship is 102 dollars a hr. for electrical, and thats what they believe, gets some heat, but not hot,the hot to cold works it gets colder if put in the blue posistion, and warm, at best in the red position,temp gauge is right wheree it supposed to be, Can any one help, I want my explorer back,,,Thanks in advance, Jack

You should start a new thread instead of posting to one that has been dead for several months.

Your blend door is not opening up for the heater core enough or the outside vent door is not closing completely, or both. The door at the bottom is for recycling cabin air.

You should start a new thread instead of posting to one that has been dead for several months.

Your blend door is not opening up for the heater core enough or the outside vent door is not closing completely, or both. The door at the bottom is for recycling cabin air.
Thank you, i hope that came through, like i said im 1 day old, and am a big collector of snap on for 35+ years, what does the bottom door do? I have a charmin cheapy manual from pep boys $10.00 or so, and have worked on cars my hole life,(when they had points and condensers),But with everything beings comps. now, thats why all local ford dealerships at $100.00 plus per hr are very helful,The only snap on toy i dont have is a scanner, The blend door looks like its opening up enough,is there a way to test it with a test light or volt meter? Again thanks for all your help in advance,Jack

I have an 02 Taurus that the heat only works when the car is revving any suggestions as to how I can get the heat to work when the car is idling?

I'd suggest you start by making sure you don't have trapped air in the cooling system. If that isn't the problem, then check the thermostat to see if it's stuck open.

You could also have a water pump with impeller vanes that are dissolving which is reducing coolant flow and probably restricting flow through the heater core. I don't recall what years were primarily affected by that issue.

Try the "Search this forum" feature from the Taurus forum contents page and you will find all kinds of information on bleeding the air from the cooling system as well as the issue with the water pump and what years seem most impacted.

-Rod

this is an old thread but im having this same problem. Details:
-Both heater core hoses (inlet and outlet)are hot.
-Both actuators are working( the one that moves for the AC I can see that one and the other one that is a door I can hear that one snugly close.
-temp guage as always stays in the middle
-air blows ay room temperature(cold as the car is)COLD..ugh
Ive worked on cars a bit.
could this be the door even tho i hear it close (same exact sound as years before, i remember)?
Any ideas welcomed
email me please. option is active
ROCK ON DUDE!:lol2::lol2::grinno: :sunglasse:sunglasse

Welcome to the forum! I appreciate you searching the forum and finding this thread. I don't encourage e-mail responses to posts though since that defeats the purpose of these forums, to help others.

What year is your Taurus, and does it have the manual (knob) controls or the electronic climate controls?

-Rod

Its a knob. Im beginning to think that the heater core is gunked up because when i switch from vent to heat there IS actually a very very small amount of heat and im sure that the actuators and doors are working. The only other thing is the thermostat but I cant see how it could be that because the temp guage reads where it always did, right in the center. could it be the thermostat anyway ? actually who knows maybe water pump??I ask this because like I said the hoses are both hot. I should check to see how much pressure they are under??

Do you have an IR thermometer that you could use to determine if the inlet and outlets for the heater core are similar in temperature? You mention in post #41 that the inlet and outlet are both hot, but if the flow is restricted you may actually see very little difference in the outlet temperature since there's very little, if any, circulation through the heater core. Considering how common it is on these cars for the heater cores to become restricted, it's worth back flushing to make sure it's clear.

-Rod

thanks Rod
No, i dont have an ir thermometer but I think the hose on the passenger side is hotter (does that make any sense?). I DO think I will try and flush it out. All I will have is ice cold water though. Which way should I force the water through? the passenger or drivers side? Thanks !
Oh yeah, and does it make any sense to try some type of additive?
lance

When you're talking "driver" versus "passenger" are you referring to the heater core nipple and the side of the car it's on, or does your heater core have basically three nipples, one for return, one for driver heat, and one for passenger heat?

Assuming you're just referring to two nipples and the side of the car each is on, you'll want to back flush the heater core, so flush from the outlet to the inlet with the heater hoses removed. I'm not sure which nipple is the inlet versus the outlet. I'm sure someone on this forum can answer that question for your 2002 though.

As for additives, I try to avoid them unless the manufacturer specifies them.

-Rod

thanks for answering!
When I say driver side or passenger side i simply mean just that. there [seems to be] only 2 hoses .1 in and 1 out.(one on each side) I just dont know which way the fluid flows. Maybe it doesnt matter. I suppose Ill go both ways.:rofl:.
I am seriously hoping its NOT the water pump.
I am going now to buy the adapters needed to hook up the hose.

Ok well I just flushed it out from both sides with the bypass crimped and letting the car run for half hour. fingers crossed

still no heat.one short hose thst is below the bypass and is connected on one end to the water pump (passenger side) and on the other to the heater core IS NOT HOT.
Allthe others are hot.
Any ideas ?
I will try and draw a diagram

What will happen if I block off the bypass and run the engine? (can I do that?)

Hi, if anybodys still out there I found a pic online that shows the heater hoses and in the pichttp://s35.photobucket.com/albums/d170/spock8113/2000%20Taurus%20Heater%20Core%20Flush/?action=view&current=01FTHC.jpg#!oZZ12QQcurrentZZhttp%3A%2F%2Fs 35.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fd170%2Fspock8113%2F2 000%2520Taurus%2520Heater%2520Core%2520Flush%2F%3F action%3Dview%26current%3D10FTHC.jpg (http://s35.photobucket.com/albums/d170/spock8113/2000%20Taurus%20Heater%20Core%20Flush/?action=view&current=01FTHC.jpg#%21oZZ12QQcurrentZZhttp%3A%2F%2 Fs35.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fd170%2Fspock8113%2 F2000%2520Taurus%2520Heater%2520Core%2520Flush%2F% 3Faction%3Dview%26current%3D10FTHC.jpg)
ALL the hoses are hot Including "supply" but that same supply feed section that is after the bypass (in pic the small 90 degree elbow just ABOVE the words "back to engine" )
IS NOT HOT...what does that tell you?
Thanks, any advice welcomed

That would suggest to me that the heater core has restricted flow. Backflushing, from the "back to engine" hose to the inlet hoses is where I would start.

-Rod

Thanks!
ive done it once and the water flowed clear.
I suppose ill try it again and let it stay flowing for longer.

OK SUCCESS!! I got a proper garden hose and a threaded straight adapter (at lowes garden dept) , (prayed)blocked off the bypass by crimping it (tightly) with a medium sized vise grip and flushed with full pressure back from the thermostat side about 20 mins and from the water pump side about 10 mins with cold water (ran clear but) the heat is HOT!
Thanks shorod and everyone else.
I now want to verify that it is at the optimum effeciency so ill go and try to find what the air temp is supposed to be. gonna need some kind of thermometer, If im not 100% ill use a chemical but im hoping I wont have to, ill report back here what I come up with.
thanks a lot guys!

Ok , dont have a thermometer and cant find out how hot is supposed to be but , hey its plenty HOT, Thats it ,its done for now. Ill know for sure once it snows but dont expect a problem.:smile:

Awesome! Thank you for following up with your success!

-Rod

1) Add 1 Peak/Prestone T flush kit.
2) Add one T-flush drain to the inlet of heater core, the one closet to the water pump.
3) Add another T-flush dain to the outlet closest to the thermostat.
4) Drain all coolant.
5) Add Prestone Super Radiator flush.
6) 1/2 way through the flush procedure pinch the heater by-pass rubber tube with a needle nose pliers.
7) Squeeze + crunch all rubber coolant hoses during the flushing process.
8) Make sure the blend door control module is doing it's job from Hot to Cold settings.
9) Make sure HVAC blower is working on all settings.
10) Drain,
* 11) Back flush heater core with garden hose, and little water pressure.
12) Add 50/50 Prestone extended life coolant.
13) Power wash the HVAC condenser and radiator cores from bugs + road litter.
14) Make sure both coolant fans are working with HVAC Cool max.
15) Make sure both low/high speed electric coolant fan controller is working proper.
16) Remove needle nose pliers on the heater hose bypass tube.

* Use 5/8'' X 3''' heater hose, 1- hose clamp, and 1-rubber stopper to block the other port on T flush drain, during the back flushing.
Also use a washing machine hose on one T-flush for drainage outside the engine compartment, and a garden hose with a little pressure to blow out the heater core.

Caution - Any shortage of coolant will cause air pockets, and the heater will not work proper.
Monitor for coolant shortages for the next few weeks.


Add 1- Prestone Coolant Treatment with anti-rust once a year in between coolant change.

I actually added a 1/2'' brass/ball shut off valve to the coolant system bypass tube for the cold winter months and turn her back on for a cooler HVAC summer months.

Thank you to all contributors!