I am concidering building a new type of forced air induction and just wanted to know what you guys though of it and if you think it will work and if you have any design suggestions. Do you know those squirl fans they use in basments and stuff to vent the air? They look just like turbos and supper chargers except that it is electric. I was thinking of connecting that squirl fan up to the air intake and connecting the SF(squirl fan) up to an electrical switch that I would only turn on from rev points above 3,000rpm to redline then switch it off until I get in next gear at 3,000 rpm. Would the ECU register this boost in air or would I have to do something to make sure this doesnt blow my engine. I am going to buy a 100$ car and try it out on that piece of s. If it works good on that engine I will be putting it on my MR2 Spyder.

If this works it will be cheaper than nos to add boost to your car. How would I measure the amount of boost the SF is pooting out before I put in on an engine?? :banghead: :banghead:

I was also thinking about taking off my exhaust pipes at the engine before it reaches the cat. what do you think would be the ramafacations of doing that other than its illeagal. It would make the car louder and it would run better I think. :evillol: :evillol:

:feedback:

The fan idea would probably not add much boost. Nitrous is for the drag strip mostly so I wouldn't reccomend it. Either turbo it or Supercharge it...those are your best options and those will definitely add a decent amount of performance gains.

About the exhaust, either leave the stocker or get an aftermarket. If I understand you correctly, you basically want to remove it alltogether which could cause a loss at the low-end significantly and the mid-range while only adding a little to top-end most likely. I'm no expert, but that's my assumption.

Thanks for the opinion. What do you think would happen to performance if I took all the mufflers off and the cat, but just had a strieght pipe out to the back of the car. Why dont you think the electric fan would work I mean how much air could the supercharger be puting in anyway.

well a turbo and non-roots type superchargers are non-linear (hence the power gains mostly at the top end with progressively larger turbos running worse at lower rpms) and therefore when the engine is spinning at say 5000 rpms the turbo could be spinning at speeds in excess of 100,000 rpms...no fan I've seen can do that...you need a turbine. Superchargers are somewhat slower because they are linear and that's why some people like them more...because they don't have a sweet spot like turbos and can be used in nearly the whole rpm range.

That little fan may add some hp, but no more than 10 I bet, I dunno even what you are talking about when you say squirrel fan, but I doubt it's capable of moving air at a decent speed.

If you want an exhaust then get some custom 2-2.5" piping and a high-flow muffler like an Apexi or another decent brand. They will give you a slight performance increase, modified powerband and will sound much better than most anything you build yourself.

I am concidering building a new type of forced air induction and just wanted to know what you guys though of it and if you think it will work and if you have any design suggestions. Do you know those squirl fans they use in basments and stuff to vent the air? They look just like turbos and supper chargers except that it is electric. I was thinking of connecting that squirl fan up to the air intake and connecting the SF(squirl fan) up to an electrical switch that I would only turn on from rev points above 3,000rpm to redline then switch it off until I get in next gear at 3,000 rpm. Would the ECU register this boost in air or would I have to do something to make sure this doesnt blow my engine. I am going to buy a 100$ car and try it out on that piece of s. If it works good on that engine I will be putting it on my MR2 Spyder.

If this works it will be cheaper than nos to add boost to your car. How would I measure the amount of boost the SF is pooting out before I put in on an engine?? :banghead: :banghead:

I was also thinking about taking off my exhaust pipes at the engine before it reaches the cat. what do you think would be the ramafacations of doing that other than its illeagal. It would make the car louder and it would run better I think. :evillol: :evillol:

:feedback:

Won't be done, well if you try you might make about .2 lbs of boost. A turbo usually spins in the area of 150,000 rpm so good luck to you if you do ever manage to make power with that.

also if you flick it on at 3k and then shift at redline, no need to flick it off and back on at 3k, cuz first, you want the power all the time, 2nd, youd HOPEFULLY be above 3k in the next gear and 3rd, it wont work anyways. youll probably decrease the performance, on the top end, the engine natuaral vacuum would probably suck in more air than that fan pushes, and juts slow it down some. im sure there are gig enough motors to mount to a fan to be strong enough to gear up a litle fan to get a small amount of boost but then it wouldnt fit under your hood anymore.

Don't do the fan (or "electric turbo") idea, you'll get so ridiculed. A fan can only spin at a small rpm, so no more than a 10 hp gain will be evident. Just get a K&N ok? please? :)

IF I get an electric fan how can I measure the amount of air it is pushing thru a 2in pvc pipe, to test it. I know this is a crazy stupid idea but it might be worth looking into if I can get a fan to move that fast :screwy: .

Lets say that I could get a electric fan to put out a good amount of preasure. then what would I have to do to the engine to make sure it was able to take the air.

can you compare the amount of air a supper charger is putting thru a pipe to something else so I can know how much air preasure I am going to need.

ok, first, ill say again it ont work, otherwise dont you think everyone would have a 100 dollar turbo instead of a 3kdollar kit. and 2nd if you ever got boost, since it would be very minimal, you dont need to do anything, butto be safe you could just get a rising rate FMU, it mountrs between the fuel rail and return line and then a hose form the manifold goes to it, for every pound of boost(pressurized manifold) the FMU bumps up the fuel pressure and everytime the injector opens it now spits more fuel. they sell 10:1 and 12:1 is so far what ive sen, it is for ever pound of boost the fuel pressure is increased 10 pounds, or 12 pounds.

Well to get a very limited idea of how much a turbo is putting out then get someone to rev their engine to a couple thousand rpms and feel how fast the exhaust is coming out. That's fast and it's not even close to how much air a turbo will offer...especially a medium/large unit.

Thanks I will see what that is like. What do you think I sould to to my 1ZZ-FE engine it is in a 2002 Mr2 Spyder. I was thinking about Turbocharging it but I think Supperchargers are better. However I love that spool sound from the turbos and the waste gate chhhhhhhhhh sound from turbos.

The engine is a 4 banger and is 130 hp. 1.8 L There are like 4 mufflers on it and a cat.

Will the car even recognize an insignificant boost like that?

well, the pshhhhh noise you are talking about is the BOV, only opens when you shift/let off the throttle. the wastegate opens everytime the turbo starts boosting more than it should, it lets exhaust pass by the turbine instead of spinning it faster, and goes through your exhaust and you wont hear it. if I were you id TC it myself, but its up to you.

and no i dont think a car will recognize the small boost from a fan cuz like ive stated before I do not believe that a fan will produce boost.

OK OK OK I am giving up on the electric fan idea

But I would like to know what I sould say to the car shop when I want to go get a turbo put in and any sugestions of what brands to get and what extra stuff I should get. I just want to be faster I dont want to get to crazy with the boost. I want to spend about 3g's or less.

dont know the exact specs of stock fuel delivery but your moist likely gonna need higher flow fuel pump, larger injectors, some sort of FMU or a ECU piggyback like the (ive heard you can tune it with the SAFC), if you buy a turbo kit themn most likely itll come with almost everything needed.

guys, they have had electric superchargers out there for awhile, and they suck. they only put out like 1-3psi compared to true turbos putting out 6-8psi. i mean it's a great idea if u want a low h/p boost at low rpm's, and it's cheap. sry to spoil your glory of a new discovery but it's been out on the market for few years. check it out: www.electricsupercharger.com

:rofl: I wouldnt ever pay 300+ bucks for some plastic fan in my intake. if I had a 14 second car, I might be able to drop 1 tenth of a second for 300 bucks! I had seen them on ebay before and LMAO, this one actually looks much better than the ones off of ebay, but what a waste. I mean, for 300 bucks, I could get a SRI off ebay, some cheap OBX headers and portmatchem myself, and hit my friend up at the muffler shop and have I/H/E for that price, and I bet that will give me around 10HP, and sound cool all the time. i guess if you only got 300 bucks and already have boltons then it MIGHT be something to consider but I wouldnt spend money on that. and is the super e ram that puts out 3 psi, cuz theirs puts out 1/2 pound of bost and frees a half pound of vaccuum through the average stock restrictive airbox to get their 1 psi they say.

guys, they have had electric superchargers out there for awhile, and they suck. they only put out like 1-3psi compared to true turbos putting out 6-8psi. i mean it's a great idea if u want a low h/p boost at low rpm's, and it's cheap. sry to spoil your glory of a new discovery but it's been out on the market for few years. check it out: www.electricsupercharger.com

What if you had that thing help spool up a big turbo? I mean that could work right? sort of like a hybrid system?

well, couold you make a custom turbo manifold and then where the 4 merge into 1, make it 5 merge to 1 and mopunt the fan on the 5th pipe to it, and then have it to where right when you step on it, the fan turns on for a couple seconds sto help it spool and then it shuts off after the couple seconds cuz that fan plus the engines exhaust has already gotten the big bastard spinning. but how do you stop the exhaust from backflowing through the fan once it is off?

you could always do what rally cars do...dump gas into the exhaust stream to increase pressure and keep the turbo spooling all the time...30psi at 1% throttle lol...

at least i think thats how they do it...i dont like rally cars much, but it sounds like the idea would work...

when you are running a turbo at 8 psi why do you need an intercooloer when you can run a suppercharger at 9 psi and not need a intercooloer?

how hard is it to instal your own turbo? :eek7:

guys, they have had electric superchargers out there for awhile, and they suck. they only put out like 1-3psi compared to true turbos putting out 6-8psi. i mean it's a great idea if u want a low h/p boost at low rpm's, and it's cheap. sry to spoil your glory of a new discovery but it's been out on the market for few years. check it out: www.electricsupercharger.com



Thanks well that solves my stupid idea. I gues it really is not worth the time and money.

well, you wouldnt necesarily HAVE to have a intercooler at 8 psi but think of it, for more boost the impellewr has to be spinning faster, generating more heat, so the intake air is even hotter than it used to be. now al the air goign through a million degree(exageration) turbo housing, the air, even pressurized, isnt that dense, slap on an intercooler and from science clas you know that cooler air= denser air, and more of it in the same amount of space. so from the same boost setting you got more power.

Is the intercooler cooling the oil or cooling the air. what runs thru the intercooler?

its dooling the air, and air goes through it, the air comoing from your turbo goes thorugh the itercooler before it reaches the throttle body and the air moving by it very fast when your driving cools the air down, kinda like the radiator cools the water.

its dooling the air, and air goes through it, the air comoing from your turbo goes thorugh the itercooler before it reaches the throttle body and the air moving by it very fast when your driving cools the air down, kinda like the radiator cools the water.


Does the air get sucked thru the intercooler or forced thru the intercooler.

Where is the intake? What if like the SS camaro you put the intake on a scoop hood.

What is the cheapest most effective way to increase HP

the turbo pushes the air through the intercooler, and the intake comes off the side of the turbo.

So the intake is right on the turbo right down by the exhaust?
So there is no air filter? like cold air intake with k&n filter?

the turbo has an air intake tube doesnt it. so you can get cooler air away from the exauhst?

it all depends, Ive seen the air filter strapped right on the turbo, or you could get some mandrel bent piping and have it route to the location of where a CAI would locate the filter if you want. and even if it is right on the turbo, there is a filter. you dotn wanna ever drive your car around with no filter.

What brand on turbo would you suggest I get for my Izz-fe engine on a 2002 mr2 spyder with sequential transmition. the engine is a 4 cylinder, 1.8 L, 135 hp.

How much boost do you think I sould run with that.

tell me if I am right. I think that I will need new spark plugs, new feul injectors, new feul pump, new ignition system, new exauhst pipes?, some thing else, do something to the computer (dont know how).

well as far as what to get for your toyota I dont know, I know nothing about what your engine can handle either, but you wil most likely need a beter fuel pump, larger injectors or a rising rate FMU, and I dont know if your computer would read boost or not, there are ways to trick honda ECU's so manybe there is a way for toyotas as well. you need to have larger diameter exhaust and you wont really need a new igniton system, your cars a 02 so your ignition system is most likely in very good shape, so dont wory about that.

and one other reason a SC might not need an intercooler for same boost levels is that air goign through the turbo it sgoign right next to where VERY hot exhaust is going through, the supercharger runs off of a belt and so it doesnt get as hot. at least thats one reason id think.

OK I think I know all about turbos now and I am thinking that a super charger should be cheaper in the long run. I mean all a super charger needs is to be bolted on and run off the pulley system right. No intercooler needed, on some superchargers no oil lines are needed. wouldnt have to buy new exhaust manifold. superchargers seem to have less to install. Am I right?

Thank you for the quick comments I have learned alot about turbos and super chargers. I am almost ready to chose which way to go. thanxs for continuing to help me out! :smokin:

well, if you peice together your own turbo kit by just buying a turbo manifold, and then a turbo, just the parts you need and not a premade kit you could do it a bit cheaper, and even cheaper than a SC< but remember with a SC your gonna get worse mileage because boost is solely dependant on RPM's rev high, push in more air and match it with more fuel. With a TC it depends on RPM's as well as how far you put your foot down, more air coming in, more going out spooling that turbo, MORE air coming in cuz of boost and then more gas goes in with it. so you could do a little bit of spirited driving and saty away from heavy boost, with a SC, shit early or youll be at the pumps again soon.

OK but what is the price difference going to be on instalation on a turbo vs a super charger given that they would have to instal from scratch. new exhaust manifold and everything vs bolting on a supper charger.

I would think it would be cheaper to instal a super charger
right?

my advice is to price a turbo kit, and then price the supercharger, wihch one is cheaper, install will probably be cheaper for a supercharger just because there is less to do, but if you are going to od it yourself, Id get what I wanted instead of thinking which will take less time to install. and with either way youre gonna need the same fuel enhancements, which I think almost al the car-specific TC/SC kits come with anyways.

any specific kits you are looking at?

supercharger is also cooler because the internals spin at a lower speed than a turbos...the exhaust that spools the turbo is the main reason for the heat buid-up on a turbo though...and the reason why nearly all turbos are intercooled and very few superchargers are intercooled...

again you'll get more power from a turbo in most cases, but for reliability a supercharger is usually a better choice. superchargers are more expensive in many cases also.

Do you think it would be better to get a suppercharger if I only want 8 psi of boost. is 8psi of boost the same power for turbos and superchargers. Do the superchargers have a better spool up time. I would have instant power from a supercharger right.

What do you guys have on your car?

well, there is no spool time for a SC at all. it is belt driven, at idle its already spinning(somewhat) and i guess you could consider it lag bacause although you dont have to get a turbo spinning, the SC does take some power to get it moving, but the power it makes quickly overcomes what was taken to turn it, just like a turbo would do. and as for peak power, I think same engine with same boost would make peak power but where you have power is different, I think peak power goes up higher a bit with a SC and down lower a bit with the turbo.

In my car if I drive on the Highway at above 65 the revs are above 3,000 in 5th gear. if I have a supercharger on it is it going to be boosting the engine while im driving at a steady speed of 70mph? what about a turbo will it be boosting the engine also in that type of case?

I hate fixing things so I dont want to get something that is going to break down or need to be fixed alot.

so whenever the engine belts are running on the supercharger the boost will always be going into the engine or does the supercharger have a blow off valve like the turbo. can you program the supercharger or turbo to only engage when you want it to?

well, I think JRSC has soem thing where it doesnt boost when the intake manifold is under vaccum, so if its not floored, and mostly cruising it wouldnt boost, but i hear they suck, and dont know of other companies, and no yuo wont really be boosting wiht a turbo while cruising, if you get turbo, get in fifht gera and cruise for a little bit of time at say 65 and then floor it, youll notice the power isnt instant, cuz the turbo has to spool up and then you have boost, maybe some boost at cruising but i doubt as much as a always on SC would be boosting.

what do you think about nos to help the spool lag on the turbo. would you be able to nos for a very short time till the turbo kicks in? Or are there other options to eliminate turbo lag.

I think that the turbo lag is bad only on high powered turbos such as ones over 10 psi because the fans are heavier and take longer to spool up. However the lighter the turbo the faster it will spool up right? Have the turbine made out of a verry light material and it will spool faster.

so if I get a turbo that is rated for 8psi wouldnt it be able to spool up faster since that is not much boost thus being a lighter turbo.

those kits that give you 8 pounds of boost, thats not all you can get, that what it is set at from the factory, cuz most likely your engine couldnt handle more safely. but you can get a boost controller and up the boost. but I have actually only driven a turbocharged car 1 time, but my friend drove a new wrx and said in 5th he could feel the lag, not to long though, then it was like a rocket, and yeah, you could use "N20"(youll get a lot of shit here for calling it nos, especially when you say it like "will you be able to nos for a short time" NOS makes kits, its N20 or nitrous oxide, and its refered to as spray usually, like could i spray to spool the turbo. what your boost is set at shouldnt affect spool time, it wil take longer to get more boost but set at 8 or 14 wiht the same turbo youll get to 8 at the same time cuz the only thing that happens at 8 pounds is the wastegate opens and exhaust bypasses the turbine so it dousnt spin faster than it already is. so no matter where the point the gate opens is eset at, still the same amoutn of exhaust is going through the turbine spooling it. you shouldnt need to spray to spool a turbo on a daily driver, ive heard of it more on serious drag racers. also, if you did, you couldnt get the cheap dry kit anymore, gotta go wet or even better direct port. anyways im going to sleep, ill answer anything else tomorrow and if i forgot anythingt since im so tired.

what do you think about nos to help the spool lag on the turbo. would you be able to nos for a very short time till the turbo kicks in? Or are there other options to eliminate turbo lag.

I think that the turbo lag is bad only on high powered turbos such as ones over 10 psi because the fans are heavier and take longer to spool up. However the lighter the turbo the faster it will spool up right? Have the turbine made out of a verry light material and it will spool faster.

so if I get a turbo that is rated for 8psi wouldnt it be able to spool up faster since that is not much boost thus being a lighter turbo.

Well i dun know if its true for mr-s's but the mr2 has a fuel cut at 14 l/b of boost. The mr2'2 stock boost i guess is around 8-9? if you use nos to spool up a turbo its gotta be one big turbo cuz anything thats decent in size would be a waste for the nos to be used.

Ok so I may not spray to compensate for the lag. do you know what brand of turbo chargers are the lightest and which ones have the turbines made out of the lightest material?

will garages let you watch the instalation and take pictures of it? Or would that be a stupid question to ask the guys I have instal my turbo.

I wanted to make a web site of the mods I do to my car you know.

I want to instal the turbo myself but am not sure if I can. :smokin:
Is welding involved in turbo instalation? to put a new exhaust manifld on it is jus bolting it on the engine isnt it? then bolt the turbo to the manifold right. then connect the intercooloer to the turbo, intercooloer to the intake manifold then do the oil lines to the turbo and fuel lines and a piggyback system for the feul map. and new feul injectors feul pump which comes with a turbo kit. that about covers it. :sunglasse

:angryfire :angryfire :angryfire Is there a web site that has a step by step instalation of a turbo on a stock engine with pictures? :angryfire :angryfire :angryfire

:pimp: :cheers: :boink:

basically it is all bolt on stuff, except drill the oil pan for a return line and then tapping inot the oil supply might be tough if its in a weird location. and homemadeturbo.com, theres kinda write ups and pics of junkyard setups, just all used parts found and bolted on.

Thanx that is helpfull.

Ok lets asume I get a turbo put on my car. I have it instaled or put on myself and it is running 8psi boost. Everything is running smoothly and at this point I have a turbo, exhaust manifold, new injectors, new fuel pump - fuel lines, piggyback system and intercooler. would I need new intake manifold? larger one

At this point I make some more money and want to increase the boost. What would I have to do to increase the boost to say 12psi?

The turbo waste gate would just remain closed longer?
I wouldn't have to buy anything else for the turbo?
would the injectors be suficient? - think so yes-
the piggyback system would be able to handle the new boost right? - think so- fuel pump would handle it to right?
What engine mods would I have to do?

well, to get more boost you need to get a boost controller, and yeah, thewastegate opens when bost exceeds what you want it to boost. and mayeb your injectors would handle it, how big did you buy? and no you dont need a new intake manifold. and when you start getting alot of boost youre gona need more than just a piggyback. and for omre boost oyull probably need some forged rods/pistons, maybeothers, I dont know really anythig about toyotas engine designs, there ECU's or anythign like that.

Will instaling a turbo running 8 psi considerably affect the life of my car?
Or will my car last just as long as without a turbo. what potential major side efects can I assume to see within 4 years.

Assuming that I take care of my car and change the oil regularly and stuff! :smokin:

if the engine is tuned well, you shouldne have any reliability issues, Id just change the oil like every 2500 miles or so, a little more often than normal, and just dont forget to do it, dont start the car and hos it right away, let it cool a bit before shutting it down, like if normal driving just use a turbo timer or somehting, if serius racing has occured and you know your oil is HOT, cruise around a couple minutes then park it and let it idle for whatever length of time your timers set at. I know in a post on the honda forum polygon listed liek 6 steps to make a TC'd engine last, check it out.

Thnx 94tegRS, I am considering trading or selling my mr2spyder and buying a used corvette. What you think? I think I can get 20,000$ for my spyder and then buy a zo6 for around 28 G's or 30' G's.

For a several thousand more than turboing my mr2 I can get a used Corvette z06 and be just as fast. I was looking at specs on suppercharging corvettes and if I suppercharged a z06 with a ProCharger brand I can get over 550hp out of the Z06.
Thats more than the new stock dodge vipers! I think.

:thumbsup:

yeah, but I bet a toyota is going to last longer than the vette, dont know, but I saw a guy wiht a new Z06, and a vortech supercharger and N20 and I had never sen a car go thorugh first and even 2nd gears in a split second it semed like, but id check your insurance, probably MUCH cheaper on the MR2.

Lets assume That Im not an idiot and dont use a suppercharger and spray at the same time on a vette then the vette would probly last a good 7 years at least. I think. See if I turbo charge or do anything to my Mr2 it will void the warrenty which is 6 years long from 2002. I also have the sequential transmition and that would make working on my Mr2 practicly imposible if something were to happen to it with a turbo on it. Thus forcing me to pay outragous fees to get it fixed. So I figure I might as well buy a vette because It just might be worth it if I can get a 2002 Z06 for around 27,000 to 29,000. then saving up some money and supercharging it in about 2 years.

I have found it easier to work on american cars than it is to work on imports. :eek7: :sly:

ive never worked on a Z06 but i personally doubt it is very easy/roomy to get to anything, all them sensors it has for evcerything and that kind of junk. and about your tranny, having thayt wont make other stuff harder to work on, and even on a chevy, I dont think youd wanna do much work to the guts of your tranny, Ive been inside one and I just wouldnt wanna do it, and I have never paid for anything done to my cars in my entire life besides splitting my transfer case and having some orange atv silicone or whatever squirted around to seal it, cuz I tried and just couldng get the case to split no matter what.

and I didnt mean go through, like chew through 1st and 2nd gears, IM talking it was insanely fast and by the time i realized he was moving, he alreayd had to shift to 2nd, then to 3rd almost instantly, it was just SO SO fast. sorry if i didnt make it clear.

ive never worked on a Z06 but i personally doubt it is very easy/roomy to get to anything, all them sensors it has for evcerything and that kind of junk. and about your tranny, having thayt wont make other stuff harder to work on, and even on a chevy, I dont think youd wanna do much work to the guts of your tranny,

IM talking it was insanely fast and by the time i realized he was moving, he alreayd had to shift to 2nd, then to 3rd almost instantly, it was just SO SO fast. sorry if i didnt make it clear.

Well I mean as far as my tranny on the mr2 it is a complicated system. I have already had to get it fixed, luckly it was under warranty or it would have cost me. I am talking about fixing the small stuff. It was eassy to fix coolant problems, etc.. on my camaro . but Yeah I can see that having to deall with all of those sensors in the vette could be troublesome.

as far as him shifting so fast that is due mainly to the gears. I changed out the gears on my camaro a long time ago and I shifted so much faster and had decreased my 0-60 time by increadible amounts/ dollar. It only cost me 400$ too.

he didnt shift fast at all, in fact he missd at least 2 gears everytime he drove it donw the track, but when it was in gear it was just amazingly fast.

94. what car you drive? What mods you have on it?
You have done all the work yourself on your car?
I used to drive a supper charged Camaro 1995. Procharger and it was the fastest car in town. Also had other mods on it. cam, etc..
Got rid of that car cause the trany kept breaking down on me. So I wanted a new car with a warranty. But I miss the speed rush.
I also had a stall tourque converter that made the gears kick in at around 3,000 rpm on the camaro. camaro=automatic :screwy:
Had the most insane pull off the line.

OK OK OK I am giving up on the electric fan idea

But I would like to know what I sould say to the car shop when I want to go get a turbo put in and any sugestions of what brands to get and what extra stuff I should get. I just want to be faster I dont want to get to crazy with the boost. I want to spend about 3g's or less.

No way you can do it right for less than $3000. Cost of most turbo kits for the Spyder are $3500+ and that's not including installation or tuning. There are NO superchargers for the Spyder. None. Your only choice is an engine swap or turbo. If you REALLY want it get a PE Turbo from Monkey Wrench Racing. To get it done RIGHT so you don't blow you motor will run you around $5,000 or so. You MUST get it tuned - you can't just bolt it on and go. At least I wouldn't. You may be able to find some local shop to do it for you for less, but I want to be sure they knew what they were doing.

http://monkeywrenchracing.com/toyota.html

you can generally do it cheaper by not getting a kit, peicing it together and getting only the parts you want. do you actually need to spend 300+ on a branfd name new IC when you can find used ones that dont leak for around 50 bucks, sure you want a new turbo, but a used manifold would be fine as well. and if you arent running lots of boost, the rising rate FMU works, and you probably run richer than needed, but for a decent amount boost or to just have it tuned perfect, then you need to get some kind of programmable ECU, but i still dont see 5k.

oh and it was a 94tegRS, it only had I/H/E, and ididnt do it to the car, but I have owned 15 cars over the course of 3 1/2 years and have taken them to the shop ONE time, I always do my own maintanence, repairs, etc... myself cuz its cheaper, and I dont know how to do it until I do, but after I do it I know how, Ive rebuilt VW engines, swapped engines in my civic, etc...

you can generally do it cheaper by not getting a kit, peicing it together and getting only the parts you want. do you actually need to spend 300+ on a branfd name new IC when you can find used ones that dont leak for around 50 bucks, sure you want a new turbo, but a used manifold would be fine as well. and if you arent running lots of boost, the rising rate FMU works, and you probably run richer than needed, but for a decent amount boost or to just have it tuned perfect, then you need to get some kind of programmable ECU, but i still dont see 5k.

oh and it was a 94tegRS, it only had I/H/E, and ididnt do it to the car, but I have owned 15 cars over the course of 3 1/2 years and have taken them to the shop ONE time, I always do my own maintanence, repairs, etc... myself cuz its cheaper, and I dont know how to do it until I do, but after I do it I know how, Ive rebuilt VW engines, swapped engines in my civic, etc...

I prefer not to gamble my lack of knowledge and expertise against installing a turbo in a $25K car that is still under warranty. If I had an older car that was "experimental" sure, it'd be a blast to tinker with and if the engine went KABOOM or something else bad happened, chalk it up to experience and try again. You are right as far as piecing it together cheaper. And you can get your own programmable ECU (there are a couple for the Spyder I know people use) but those run $1000 or so and you still have no know what you are doing to get the most out of it. If you are experienced at it, then go for it. The guy wanting to do this doesn't seem to have experience with turbos and tuning - no offense to him, but anyone thinking they could attach an electric fan to the motor for boost is clueless as to how and why turbos and superchargers really work. Just my 2 cents. I know I'd pay to get it done RIGHT so I wouldn't have to worry about it.

James

wouldnt boosting his MR2 void the warranty anyways. the only way I see it not would be if the dealer sold it to him and installed it, I see DC sports headers at the honda dealership for sale, but they are like 375 bucks each, so right there the turbos gonan be way overpriced from a dealerhsip, and they rape you wiht charges. I went in to get some work done on a tranny i bought used for dirt cheap, it was missing the bolts to hole the cases together and all the plugs and a few other misc. bolts and they wanted me to give them 350 bucks just for the bolts plugs! and by the time I would have had my tranny back to me it would have been 978 bucks or something like that, and I even tok it to them and was going to put it in the car myself, so they had no removal/install time on there.

wouldnt boosting his MR2 void the warranty anyways. the only way I see it not would be if the dealer sold it to him and installed it, I see DC sports headers at the honda dealership for sale, but they are like 375 bucks each, so right there the turbos gonan be way overpriced from a dealerhsip, and they rape you wiht charges. I went in to get some work done on a tranny i bought used for dirt cheap, it was missing the bolts to hole the cases together and all the plugs and a few other misc. bolts and they wanted me to give them 350 bucks just for the bolts plugs! and by the time I would have had my tranny back to me it would have been 978 bucks or something like that, and I even tok it to them and was going to put it in the car myself, so they had no removal/install time on there.


Yes -
adding a turbo would void the warranty. My point is if I were to add a turbo I would want it done right by a professional that has fitted and tuned it for the Spyder before - not by myself and some friends who have always wanted to add a turbo to a car. At least I'd have a much better chance of not destroying my engine that way. The dealer would never install it anyway - it would have to be a specialty shop.

Yes, see that is why I want to trade my Mr2 Spyder in and get a 2002 Z06 corvette. Because if I turbo my mr2 I void waranty, If I turbo it I will be spending about 5,000-6,000 for a decent turbo setup. So I figure sell the mr2 for $20,000 buy a vette for 27,000 and save myself the trouble of getting a turbo put on. Total cost of getting a turbo put on my mr2, and doing it right, about $7,000, including all the add ons.
Then maybe in the future supercharge the vette=500hp + .

what you think?

And yes I knew a litle bit about turbos before I joined this site, but have learned alot in the short time ive been here. You've been verry helpfull. :smokin:

B.

Yes, see that is why I want to trade my Mr2 Spyder in and get a 2002 Z06 corvette. Because if I turbo my mr2 I void waranty, If I turbo it I will be spending about 5,000-6,000 for a decent turbo setup. So I figure sell the mr2 for $20,000 buy a vette for 27,000 and save myself the trouble of getting a turbo put on. Total cost of getting a turbo put on my mr2, and doing it right, about $7,000, including all the add ons.
Then maybe in the future supercharge the vette=500hp + .

what you think?

And yes I knew a litle bit about turbos before I joined this site, but have learned alot in the short time ive been here. You've been verry helpfull. :smokin:

B.

I think that if all you want is speed, and can afford the insurance and cost of the car, then sell your Spyder and get a Mustang Cobra or Vette or any other high horsepower muscle car. The Spyder was not built to be a straight line 1/4 mile racer. I love the car because:

1. It's a roadster - 2 seat, top down, in your face fun.
2. It handles and brakes better than most cars. Add a few suspension mods and nothing can keep up with it on a twisty road.
3. It gets GREAT gas mileage - 30mpg all the time
4. Is not too expensive on insurance, at least not compared to the 300+ horsepower cars out there.
5. It's LIGHT - at around 2,100lbs, it doesn't need a lot of horsepower to move it. VERY nimble - like a go-cart on rails. Every time I drive I leave the car with a grin on my face.
6. They are not a dime a dozen. I see vettes. mustangs, hondas, miatas, cameros, etc every day and usually more than 3-4 a day. I can go a week and not see another Spyder. With only 5,000 imported to the US, I like the exclusivity.

Once my warranty goes, I plan on adding a turbo setup. I think that at about 180-200 hp, the car would be absolutely perfect in all respects. No need for any more than that, IMO.

Sounds to me the Spyder just isn't the car for you. You want a 1/4 mile speedster - go for it.

Does anyone know how fast,(1/4 mile) times the spyder has if it is turbocharged? I have been looking around and cant find any stats. I think I read that if 2002 mr2spyder turboed with 8-9 psi it will run 12's in the 1/4mi, though im not sure. the hp was around 230 to 250 I think. what you think? cause that is what vettes are running around right(1/4 mi).

B.

Does anyone know how fast,(1/4 mile) times the spyder has if it is turbocharged? I have been looking around and cant find any stats. I think I read that if 2002 mr2spyder turboed with 8-9 psi it will run 12's in the 1/4mi, though im not sure. the hp was around 230 to 250 I think. what you think? cause that is what vettes are running around right(1/4 mi).

B.

http://monkeywrenchracing.com/1-4miletimes/1-4milemr2s.htm

thanx that is cool. 12.679(1/4 mi) 109.68mi/hr MR2-S MT Custom Turbo, IC jon_volk Lebanon Valley what boost do you think he was running on his car to get that 1/4mi time? you probly dont know though.
and that is about what vettes run stock :screwy:

B.

thanx that is cool. 12.679(1/4 mi) 109.68mi/hr MR2-S MT Custom Turbo, IC jon_volk Lebanon Valley what boost do you think he was running on his car to get that 1/4mi time? you probly dont know though.
and that is about what vettes run stock :screwy:

B.

No idea on the boost etc. He wasn't making NEAR the horsepower that Vette makes though, I can tell you that. And like I told you, you CAN'T compare a stock Vette to a Spyder - turbo'ed or not. The Vette costs twice as much new, has 350 horsepower STOCK, gobs of torque and was BUILT with raw speed in mind. The engineers designed it that way. The Spyder was NEVER EVER built with 12 second 1/4 mile times in mind. The Vette WAS. It sounds like all that matters to you is the 1/4 mile time of the car. Buy the Vette and enjoy. You won't be happy with your slow Spyder no matter what.

I know there is no comparison between the two. I like the fact that I have one of the rarest cars in my town. I see more corvettes and camaros and mustangs than I can imagine. every other car is one of those. As far as respect though, no one fears the mr2spyder. Ya I could probly handle better through some tight turns but how often does that come up. compared to stoplight races with big cars.

off topic - do you know which state would have the cheapest vettes? :)

I know there is no comparison between the two. I like the fact that I have one of the rarest cars in my town. I see more corvettes and camaros and mustangs than I can imagine. every other car is one of those. As far as respect though, no one fears the mr2spyder. Ya I could probly handle better through some tight turns but how often does that come up. compared to stoplight races with big cars.

off topic - do you know which state would have the cheapest vettes? :)


LOOK - This is my last post on this topic. It's stupid kids like you that get people killed and cause insurance rates to skyrocket. Who the f&^k CARES if the Spyder gets no respect from a bunch of loser street racers???? Anyone that "earns" respect by street racing is fooling themselves. They need to get a clue and take it to the track where it's safe. They have it here in Memphis every Thursday night. It's like $20 or so to run as many times as you want. Safely and with NO OTHER CARS ON THE TRACK (except the one you are racing). Someone that races on the same streets that my daughter, my wife, my friends and family drive on is a total dipshit that deserves to lose their license and go to jail - period. No second chances. Just sell your Spyder. Stop racing on public streets before you kill yourself or worse, someone else. I don't want to hear that you do it on deserted roads or any of that - you never know when another car may pull out or show up. It's stupid and irresponsible, period. I'm through with this thread.

Look - I will head down to memphis and run over your daughter and whoever I want then come back down here and race some more on the street. Suck my junk and shut the f&^k up! :smokin:
ohh and dont reply. :loser:

Check out this picture of James. stupid fu^k
http://www.midsouthspyders.com/photos/index.php?currDir=./Deals_Gap_Labor_Day_2003/Big_Pics/The_Dam&pageType=image&image=P1013054.JPG