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no bus


durango1
09-30-2003, 12:33 PM
I also have a '99 Durango with 50000 miles. Recently it has been breaking down on me. I feel it lose power until it dies all together. After about 2 to 20 minutes it will start again. This has happened 25 times. I have taken this vehicle to two shops on e being Tom Madsen Dodge in Auburn Washington who claims to be a "five star dealership" They assured me they would take care of this problem so I left it there only for them to tell me that they could not fix a problem that does not exist. I realize that intermittent problem are hard to fid however given all the information pertaining to the problem how is it that they have never heard of such a thing?? Today I was traveling at about 60 MPH and I lost all power. Tach and Speedo went to zero. When I tried to restart I noticed that there were no reading on any gage and the "no Bus" message appeared an this time I cant restart so I open the hood and gently wiggle the connections at the PCM and I hear relays kick on and then my vehicle runs again. This is a serious problem and I am not amused by this situation. I had it towed to my office w/o trying to crank it. When I got there it was like nothing was wrong. Does anyone have any input as to what’s next .Thanks?

dodgerox
10-23-2003, 11:51 AM
Have you made any modifications to your durango? (installed turbo or super charger or have you ever even changed your own oil or taken it to jiffy lube or any where other than your dodge dealership?) :useless:
(send me a pic of your car)(you can e-mail me at j5150@sbcglobal.net

cw2420
11-13-2005, 09:01 AM
I have add this problem before and no bus means the the pcm is not comunicating with all other modules. first you need to verify the gadges ok. First with the key off hold the odometer trip button in and turn key on and hold for 5 to 10 sec intill odometer read CHCK then release. this will proseed the gagde cluster in a self check mode. you may or may not get codes. if ok you need to go futher. I found mine by pulling the engine wiring harness connector from the fuse box under the hood with the key on. If the fan and other things come on you have a shorted sensor some where. It may be one that needs a 5 volt referance. these are ones with white wire with a black stripe. unplug each one to see if shorted. There are only three sensors that need 5 volts. they are your TPS,MAP, and Crank sensor. the crank is the most common th short out.this will give you a crank/no start or a drive for a while and stall while driving and then no restart with NO BUS in the odometer. please contact for further info

WPAGEJR
11-15-2005, 08:58 AM
Lookat The Previous Threads. The Pcm Needs To Be Replaced. When Your Truck Stalls You Can Pop The Hood And Wiggle The Wire Connections Into Your Pcm. You Will Hera The Relays Switch On. Anyway Its Covered Under A 8yr 80k Mile Emissions Warranty. When You Take It To The Dealer Tell Them To Let It Run Until It Cuts Off. You Will Never Get A Code By Turning It On And Off.

cw2420
11-16-2005, 05:36 AM
The pcm doesnt have to be most of the time. Yes this is not rare but Id rather try to diag the truck first before you just go throwing parts at it. Not to mention after replacing the pcm it needs to be reflashed. so what happens if this is done and it doesnt work. back to square one. and out that money. inless your under 80,000. but the dealer wont put one if you just go in there and ask for it.

WPAGEJR
11-16-2005, 07:51 AM
The pcm doesnt have to be most of the time. Yes this is not rare but Id rather try to diag the truck first before you just go throwing parts at it. Not to mention after replacing the pcm it needs to be reflashed. so what happens if this is done and it doesnt work. back to square one. and out that money. inless your under 80,000. but the dealer wont put one if you just go in there and ask for it.

WELL DIAGNOSE THE TRUCK. LET IT RUN UNTIL IT SHUTS OFF. IT WILL GIVE YOU A CODE ONCE IT SHUTS OFF. WHEN THE PCM SHUTS DOWN IT AUTOMATICALLY ERASES ALL CODES. GOOD LUCK. ALSO IF YOU GO TO THE DEALER AND EXPLAIN WHAT IS GOING ON, MAKE IT SEEM LIKE YOU KNOW WHAT YOUR TALKING ABOUY, THEY WILL DO THE TEST FOR YOU. LET IT RUN AND THEY CAN GET THE CODE FOR YOU THEIR. HAVE FUN

cw2420
11-17-2005, 05:47 AM
Well Im Not Sure I Think We Are Talking Abour 2 Different Problems. I Had A 99 Truck Towed In To My Shop With A No Start Condition.the Computer Had Shut Down And Would Not Communicate With Anyone Else. The Crank Sensor Was Shorted To Power And Caused The Computer To Shut Down. Once Unplugged All The Relays Clicked And The Computer Woke Up. Replaced It With A Known Good One And The Truck Started.

Fodus
07-16-2008, 02:52 PM
I have a 200o Dodge Durango that had the same problem, it would stall and then say "No Bus" on the odometer. It did it a couple of times, and then not once over the Winter. Once it started warming up outside it happened all the time. I tried replacing the Crank Shaft Sensor, as this in one possible fix, but it did not fix the problem. In the mean time, I decided, that because it didn't ever happen during the Winter I would pack a bag of ice around the computer to keep it cool, and it worked! I would buy a bag of ice from a gas station, open it and pour some ice out right around the computer (the bag won't fit or let the hood shut if it is full), then I would reseal the bag, and pack it in around the computer itself. This temporarily fixed my problem, however I knew that it wasn't a final fix so I called the dealership for the price of a new computer. They quoted we just under $600 for the part, and $85 dollars for labor. I didn't have a spare $685 dollars so I called AutoZone. They charged me $276 plus a $65 core fee (which I got back when i returned the old computer of course). I took the thing home and put it in myself. It was the easiest fix I have ever done on a car and I am not a mechanic. It literally took me about 5 minutes to disconnect the battery, removed the 3 bolts that hold the computer in place, disconnect the 3 electrical connections on the computer, and then do the same thing in reverse. If you aren't sure it's the computer, try the "ice fix" and see if it helps. If that does it, DON'T go to a dealership and pay the high price unless you can afford it. Order if from AutoZone. They will ask you for the VIN, the milage, and a few other things. They have to order it over the phone, and give the company they call the info you supplied, and download all the info for your vehicle to the new computer. It is then delivered to AutoZone via Fedex in about 2 days.

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