im making a list of all the things i plan on doing to my car and i need help estimating my horsepower.. like minimum to maximum horsepower i could expect from these mods

aem cam gears
aem pulleys
bomz stainless steel headers
eagle forged rods
10.5:1 pistons
11.0:1 pistons (just seeing difference between 10.5 and 11)
iridium spark plugs
msd ignition
8lb aluminum flywheel
obx 10.3mm spark plug wires
skunk2 intake manifold
stage 2 camshafts
underdrive crank pulley
performance ECU
Fuel pressure regulator (if not horsepower what benefit does this provide?)
Port and polish head


i know i went all over the place as far as high end mods (like the forged rods and port and polish head) down to the lower mods... i just want to know what i would expect if i were to get these

IMO 200-220 WHP. The difference for every .5:1 compression is about 8-10 HP.

If your going to make it high compression, why not convert it to LS/VTEC. Whats a B16 head cost? $200+/-. Better yet, why not just go for a B16 and build it? Its made to rev, the B18B is not. Even if you do the LS/VTEC fully built(internals) its not recommended to rev past 7800 because the B18B's rod to stroke ratio is garbage; like 1.54:1 to where the B16 is 1.74:1. For a street car 1.75:1 is considered perfect. The lower you go from that the less there gonna rev, or should I say its more likely to throw a rod. A B16 with a turbo kit packing 8psi of boost with a 2.75-3.00" exhaust, FMIC, 8200rpm redline; <----WICKED

B18 has more torque. And yes it does matter contrary to popular belief. My Daytona only has 146 HP, but 170 Ft lbs of torque. I have no problem keeping with or beating a much lighter civic SI that is 160 HP.

BTW my car only likes to rev to 5800 RPM's, that doesn't make it slow.

Originally posted by PWMAN
BTW my car only likes to rev to 5800 RPM's, that doesn't make it slow.


true those daytona can fly
so yes low reving doesnt make you slow

Lets see, a B18C1 puts out 170hp stock with DOHC VTEC and a 10.0:1 C/R.
Your B18A has 130hp stock with a 9.0:1 C/R, correct?
So you bump it to 10.5:1 and gain 25hp.
Intake mani 10hp.
Full intake and Exaust 15hp.
Cams(which will probably give noticable TQ down low) 15hp.
Head and those goodies pulleys, ECU, FPR. 20.

So say 220ish HP, WHEEL hp is gonna be below 200.

How about the B18A with a turbo, Pistons, fuel system, intake mani, 3" exhaust, intake filter, block guard, 15psi of boost, 260+ wheel hp, and and 240+ pound feet of TQ, with 200+ online at about 3000rpm when the turbo is spooled.

Yeah, but your daytona is Turbo, so TQ come in at fairly low RPM, but if your gonna build a NA Honda motor it better rev. I've driven b16 civs and b18C integras, no TQ. But a 92 civ HB with an H22, thats what im talking about.

o i didnt mean overall horsepower, i mean broken down item by item

Originally posted by 1320B4U
If your going to make it high compression, why not convert it to LS/VTEC. Whats a B16 head cost? $200+/-. Better yet, why not just go for a B16 and build it? Its made to rev, the B18B is not. Even if you do the LS/VTEC fully built(internals) its not recommended to rev past 7800 because the B18B's rod to stroke ratio is garbage; like 1.54:1 to where the B16 is 1.74:1. For a street car 1.75:1 is considered perfect. The lower you go from that the less there gonna rev, or should I say its more likely to throw a rod. A B16 with a turbo kit packing 8psi of boost with a 2.75-3.00" exhaust, FMIC, 8200rpm redline; <----WICKED

i found this motor swap site a while ago that was called hmotors.com or something (thats not it, I CANT REMEMBER, help me PLZ) that sold a complete b16 swap (the 1st gen one with 160hp, vtec) for $1150 plus shipping and it included transmission and wiring and that shit. why is it called LS/VTEC if its a 90 integra GS? that doesnt make sense but whatever, i might do that. if i use my b18a and put a b16 head on it will i have vtec? what would i need to do besides putting in the b16 head to make it compatible... im a newb at motor swaps so fill me in

"o I didn't mean overall horsepower, I mean broken down item by item"
Its impossible without dynoing between installation of every part, the numbers I threw out shouldn't be too far off.

"I found this motor swap site a while ago that was called hmotors.com or something (thats not it, I CANT REMEMBER, help me PLZ) that sold a complete b16 swap (the 1st gen one with 160hp, vtec) for $1150 plus shipping and it included transmission and wiring and that shit."
Yeah, I've seen quite a few sites myself. That seems to be the going price for the B16a1/Trans/ECU, $1000-1200.

"why is it called LS/VTEC if its a 90 integra GS? that doesnt make sense but whatever, I might do that."
Because the first engine it was done to was the 1994+ LS Integra B18B. Its just a newer version of your B18A. When doing a complete(internals) "LS/VTEC" swap, it doesn't really matter if its the A or the B. Considering you have a 1990 Teg, your engine probably has too many miles/wear and tear to make it worth it. It would be better to buy a lower mile B18B engine.

"if i use my b18a and put a b16 head on it will i have vtec? what would i need to do besides putting in the b16 head to make it compatible..."
You have to add VTEC solenoids, oil lines, timing belt, complete head(valvetrain), VTEC ECU possibly, just look around on yahoo or dogpile.

The cheapest bang for the buck would be a turbo B16 or H22a(also good for about 8lbs of boost), assuming you do the work yourself. If you need a mechanic, you better have deep pockets or start learning fast.

Originally posted by 1320B4U
a 92 civ HB with an H22, thats what im talking about.

A H22 can fit into a 92-95 Civic??
hmm... if it can... I might try to do that...
A H22 Turbo 92-95 Civic...:iceslolan:

Yep. A friend has a 92 HB, Mugen kit, dumped, 17's, C-fiber hood, Championship white, one-piece lens, H22a w/intake/exhaust, Integra GSR 94+ whole dash setup, Sparcos, roll cage. Easily one of the cleanest cars around. At Woodburn Drags it ran a 13.2 on street tires first time out.

90gs,
Hate to be a pain in the ass becuase I know people have said this before, but change your avatar. I don't even want to read your posts becuase I hate looking at splattered crap when I'm trying to read. A picture like that might have been funny in third grade, but seriously....show a little more tact.

k i changed my avatar...

ok my current engine (b18a1) has 198,000 miles on it but it seems to pull fine (compared to my other integra with 132,000 miles on it) but i want a new engine/tranny anyway since i plan to start racing on a regular basis at the local track and i want to use nitrous as part of my setup. i want to go all motor except a small shot of nitrous (10-30 shot... dont want anything higher)

if i were to do a b16a swap what else would i need to buy? (someone said something about oil lines and VTEC solenoids?)

how much do you think a shop would charge to do the swap for me.. shouldnt take to long should it? take out the old engine, put in the new one, hook the crap up? would i need new motor mounts?

could someone post a few links that sells b16 motor swaps please?

Thanks man. Now I can read your posts without visual and gastrointestinal discomfort!:smile:

"if i were to do a b16a swap what else would i need to buy? (someone said something about oil lines and VTEC solenoids?)"

Thats for the LS/VTEC head swap.

1320B4U do you have aim or aol ? get back to me.

90gs I would just like to say that 20-30hp shot of nitrous will easily turn into 50, 60, 75 and so on. A 30hp shot of nitrous is almost undetectable 70hp and up is were you really start seeing a nice improvement:bigthumb: And also contrare to some ppl you can use nitrous in high compression applications, you just have to plan for it when building the motor. Think of an b18b1 with 11:1 compression, cams, cam gears, ignition system, clutch, flywheel, 4-1 one pc header, safc, cai, and a 100 shot wet:grinyes: and it can be done, I like vtec and i think the B16 is a fine engine but I am really tired of ppl thinking that the b18a and b18b engines are useless and that the answer for every question is swap in a b16 this and a b18c that, with the setup I just talked about you would walk alot of vtec cars with ease, you would probably be seing mid to low 12's on slicks, and that would be a daily driver easily:bigthumb:

Originally posted by whtteg
90gs I would just like to say that 20-30hp shot of nitrous will easily turn into 50, 60, 75 and so on. A 30hp shot of nitrous is almost undetectable 70hp and up is were you really start seeing a nice improvement:bigthumb: And also contrare to some ppl you can use nitrous in high compression applications, you just have to plan for it when building the motor. Think of an b18b1 with 11:1 compression, cams, cam gears, ignition system, clutch, flywheel, 4-1 one pc header, safc, cai, and a 100 shot wet:grinyes: and it can be done, I like vtec and i think the B16 is a fine engine but I am really tired of ppl thinking that the b18a and b18b engines are useless and that the answer for every question is swap in a b16 this and a b18c that, with the setup I just talked about you would walk alot of vtec cars with ease, you would probably be seing mid to low 12's on slicks, and that would be a daily driver easily:bigthumb: :iagree:

92ls its I8AV10@AOL.COM

for a h22 to fit in a civic h/b u would need motor mounts n might have to do a lil cutting






Gsr
Type R Internals beats Type R's
Har Har Har!

A little hacking with an air chisel on the factory mounts, but no cutting really.