"Pass-Key" Problem

Greetings Anyone & Everyone
I have purchased a 96' Grand Am SE (2.4)for my son, however, it will crank over, but not continually run due to the security system locking up. She runs for about 2-3 seconds and shuts off; I do hear the fuel pump running though. The security light flashes, then after let sitting 10 minutes it's a constant light (tried this "reset" after suggestions from other forums). I'm stumped. I read it could be either of the following: BCM, something in the Dash Board, or anti-theft system.
If you have any information, direction, literature, or input on how to override this issue it will be greatly appreciated.
Any Help is greatly appreciated. Please.
Thanks in advance,
-TuType

Can you get it running atleast once ? or it always goes back into tamper deterant mode?

I bought the car "as is" a week ago. It only ran a few seconds for me. However, the previous owner stated he drove it to K-mart and it wouldn't start thereafter. He had it towed about a mile to a mechanic, who told him the problem was the security system. The car was going to be junked; I couldn't bare the thought of that; i felt led to buy it, so I did. Again, any help is greatly appreciated.

-TuType

then locate the 3 wires harness going from the top of the ignition key. it's 3 small wires, black, yellow and white.

cut the black and yellow (and leave enought wire in case you want/need to reconnect it). on the wire going to the BCM (so not those going to the key), solder a resistor, any value between 470 and 10k ohms.

then put key in ignition, put to run, wait about 10 minutes until the security light stop blinking, turn to off, wait 5 seconds, start the car.

This should fix the issue... if not you might have a BCM issue.

A note of warning: this may not be legal for your insurances, as you bypass a security feature (anti theif). but hey, who care about an old car, and I doubt you will insure it for theif anyway

Wow! Well I bought a new battery for the GA and installed it. Tried to start her, but got same results, ran for two seconds. So I didn't want to attempt the reprogramming with the Day-time running lights on therefore I engaged the emergency brake and attempted to start the reprogramming process. To my much suprise she started and kept running. I took her to the car wash (but never turned her off).
I also stopped at Advance Auto in hopes they could diagnose why the following lights stays on:
- "Air Bag"
- "ETS" (what does "ETS mean)?
- "Theft Sys"
*** I finally turned her off and she restarted each time, but those lights stayed on.
Can anyone tell me what I should do from here?
Again, Thanks in advance,
-TuType

Didn't last. I started her up this evening and let her run for about 20 minutes; turned her off, and went in the house. Started her again, went to the store, but forgot something so I came back home. I turned her off, ran into the house for a second, came back out only to find out, she would not start.
I would get constant cranking as if she wasn't getting any gas, so I would turn her off. Try again, and I would get the two second stalling (cranking).
Each time lights would stay on constantly. I disconnected the negative battery cable and tried again to no avail, same symptoms. Believe me as soon as I get her started she's going straight to the mechanic who has a GM Scan Tool.
I'm thinking this may be the Dash Cluster/Gauges you guys have been talking about; any clues; should I replace the gauges first, or take her straight to the mechanic/Dealer?
Well, I still give Honor to my Lord JESUS, because it could have been worst; I could have been stuck at Blockbuster in the rain, and my wife not answering her cell phone...Praise HIM !!! 8)

I'ld check the fuses first, but chance is that you have a bad wheel speed sensor, which disable the ABS and also disable the traction control. A bad ignition lock cylinder is possibly the cause of your passlock problem.

When the passlock detect a wrong key it cut the fuel injectors. the 2 seconds you get is the gas left over in the system...

1. I got a key made from Wal-Mart becaused a Dealer here in town told me that they can't/don't make keys for vehicles over 10 years old using the VIN the information is no longer in their system.
2. I'm thinking of just installing an after-market (Viper/DEI) alarm system with remote-start. The shop owner told me he could override the factory (Passlock) system with a module. Would this rectify my "Passlock/Security" problems?
Again, Thanks to all,
-TuType

Depending on the module, it could make things worse

I'ld just bypass the passlock with a resistor and be done with it.

even if you by pass the pass lock, if the ignition switch or BCM are bad you'll continue to get the same results, no start. The lock cylinder is a cheap part.

If the air bag light is on could be the SRS module flaking out. I think its under the pass seat, typically they get wet from leaks and get toasted.
The ETS is your traction control, sometimes the switch on the shifter gets stuck or damaged. I doubt the wheel speed sensor(s) is the issue, advance auto scans would show any ABS codes ie. wheel speed sensor fault.

You might try and find a different instrument cluster. These are prone to fail and can cause many problems, no start, multiple lights on etc etc. :2cents:

even if you by pass the pass lock, if the ignition switch or BCM are bad you'll continue to get the same results, no start. The lock cylinder is a cheap part.


If it's the ignition, it will be fixed. Bypass... what do you think it does? However if it's the BCM it won't fix. The lock cylinder is still about 100$ last time I checked it, might not be the cheapest, but it wasn't the most expensive at all, seen some at up to 280$... damn theif...

But I do agree with having the code scanned for the airbag and ETC (and yes, the airbag module is under front passenger seat, under the carpet, hence why it tend to toast when water get in, from a simple occurence of forgetting to close the window and you get rain)

Passlock is done by the BCM, under the glove box
Airbag is a dedicated module under the front passenger seat, under the carpet.
ETC is done by the EBCM, passenger rear of engine...
ABS is also EBCM (duh... Electronics Braking Control Module)

Got her started again, however, the Air Bag, ETC & Theft lights are still on. Problem: The Air Bag module, located under the pass seat was soaked. It actually looked as if it had corrosion around the plug. I unplugged it then she started right up.

Questions:

- Where is the BCM located?

- Which switch on the shifter gets stuck (xeroinfinity)?

- How do I prevent a new SRS module from getting wet? Can I wrap it in something to protect it, does it get hot, or what?

- If I purchase a new Instrument Cluster, can I tell if it's good prior to the purchase? And what are my vehicle options & year range that will fit? Do I have to remove the entire dash to take out the cluster?

- When I replace these parts will the car start right up or will I have to do the "10 minute" relearn process?

Thank everyone for all the help. I greatly appreciate it,

May the Lord Bless you!

-TuType

Actually, your problem could be only the airbag module...

See, every module talk over a single bus, which is present on every module. If the airbag module corrupt the bus due to the corosion and all, then it's possible that the PCM don't get the "Passlock code ok, enable fuel injector" from the BCM or something.

I wouln't replace the IC, it seems to be working fine.

I'ld replace the airbag module and if there is anything else that show up have the code scanned and see what's going on. Make a few calls, some places do free code scanning.

go to youtube tells you to bypass security light alot here is a friend of mine called redneckrickem enjoy http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AKfn7J9CeZM&feature=fvw

Jesus! I just viewed the Youtube link on the VAT system. Is this really all I have to do to finally rid myself the the Passlock system? (1) locate the orange wire under the dash; cut it; solder the right number of resistors to the orange wire? Is the 1996 Pontiac Grand Am done the same as in this video?: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AKfn7J9CeZM&feature=fvw (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AKfn7J9CeZM&feature=fvw). If so, one more question. Is there only 1 orange wire; I want to make sure I cut the "correct" wire.

Thank you all.

Much Blessing,

-TuType

that video is actually wrong.

You have a 3 wires system.
It's a black, white and yellow wires. The white one is not used, only the yellow and black is needed.

Just cut the yellow and black wire and solder any resistor value between 470 and 10000 ohms, then do the relearn procedure.

that video is actually wrong.

You have a 3 wires system.
It's a black, white and yellow wires. The white one is not used, only the white and black is needed.

Just cut the white and black wire and solder any resistor value between 470 and 10000 ohms, then do the relearn procedure.

I think thats a miss type phantom, you said the white one is not used but then you say it is...?? lol

The video is correct for that specific car, a two wire VAT system.

I'd be leery of attempting this. because I believe the air bag also uses a yello wire. And it sure sucks when they go off for no reason in your face. :2cents:

thanks I made a mistake in the colors

but yeah it have a 3 wires for the 1996 GA SE

and yeah, airbag cables use a yellow jacket... and does goes boom easilly.

i orange wire i think is a sleeve i think two wires inside of it just ask him he'll help you

i shouldnt be a yellow wire it should be a yellow sleeve with two wires inside like a yellow shrink tube and this is a no brsiner but dont cut unless you want to deploy

Hey, I did the VAT's bypass on a 1996 Buick LaSabre and also on a Pontiac...I can guarantee you that inside the ORANGE wire is infact two smaller white wires...and those wires are for the vat's system...MOST ALL YELLOW WIRES, SOCKETS AND ELECTRICAL CONDUIT IS FOR THE AIRBAG SYSTEM!!!!!!!! So be careful.

As a side note, when the VAT's system is partially activated, it will...initially cut off power to the ignition module. If the system is still being triggered then it will next cut power to the fuel pump relay. Thus, that is why some times it will start up and stall....and some times it will just sit there and crank over but not start up at all...........Any how, if you are still getting the start and stall situation happening then you could just "hot wire" the ignition module to run the car but keep in mind that you will still need to have the key turned to start the car and also to keep it in the run position to keep it running. The wire on the ignition module to do the hotwire trick is white with a black stripe on it.....oh! and sorry bout the thread jacking...have a great day

I Believe she's all fixed now. I removed the IPC and noticed it had been repaired in, 12/2001. I took it back to them (AJR International, 1-800/232-3965). They tested it, and repaired it for, $170.00. They repair OEM Domestic Electronics (Radios, Navigation Systems & IPCs). The repairs should last at least 9 more years.

Thanks again...Peace,

-TuType

On your 1996 GA...you need to have a key with the chip in it. If you make aftermarket keys without a chip, your car will not remain running. Although you got lucky with the security system this is not the solution.

The use of cutting wires and installing resistors should not be done unless you know for sure that the action will not cause another reaction in the car.

One poster was right the fuel in the engine allowed it to start. And then she died. This system cuts off the fuel and spark to the car. This keeps it from being stolen.

If your car has a BCM and I am sure that it does. This is what you can try and do to fix your problem. Make sure all wiring and connections are right.

With the PROPER KEY in the ignition try and start the car. You may have a passlock II system. If that is the case make sure the ignition switch is operating properly. Then do the following:

BCM REPROGRAM SEQUENCE:

Try and start the car. If the car cranks and fails to start do the following:

1. Turn the key OFF and remove from the ignition and then re-insert
2. Turn the Ignition ON so all the lights are lit on the dash and make sure all external driving lights and headlights are off. No blower or radio needs to be on either.
3. Leave the Ignition on for a period of 30 minutes WITHOUT trying to start the car. If you do this in less time you may not do the sequence properly and will have to re-do it all over again. This will be wasted time.
4. TURN THE IGNITION OFF AND REMOVE THE KEY.
5. Reinsert the key and START the car. If it starts and runs fine you have solved the problem.

In some current GM models the BCM loses the programming, or tricks the car into thinking that its being stolen and the horn blows, and/or it just won't start. If you cannot start the vehicle it is worth the effort to tow it to a Pontiac dealer that is still performing service or A Chevrolet Dealer who can help you too.

Good luck to you and hope I have helped you.
John :tongue:

I no longer have this problem. Again, thanks to everyone. Happy Holidays, but most of all have a very, Merry CHRISTmas.

-Peace,

TuType