I need major help. I have a 93 grand cher with 194,000 miles on it. I have never had a problem until now. When driving the jeep sometimes it stalls and then starts back up again and you keep driving. Or othertimes it stalls when you are stopped and you need to start it back up. I had it at 2 dealerships but they can not find anything wrong because it is an intermittent problem and never happens when they have it. Did anyone else ever have this problem??IT IS DRIVING ME CRAZY!!!!!!!!

From reading other web sites. On stalling issues, the crank sensor was mentioned quite often.

Same problem, here. I have been through the wringer with this old gal (93 Cherokee 4.0 with 250,000 miles).

I've replaced the Crank Sensor, the Cam Sensor, Timing chain, coil, wires/plugs/rotor & cap and the ECM (computer)! Still a problem. I suspect a wiring problem as I have already had to fix the junction where the injectors tie together with the lead from the ECM. Took me two months of afternoon and weekend probing with a VOM to finally find it!

Anyway, if anyone has a quick fix or a sure fire diagnostic approach, I'm all ears!

Your Jeep is Possesed!

Have a 95 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited - have had stalling problems for nearly four years - have been to the dealer numerous times, and to a private car repair shop. No solution by anyone. Called Jeep 800 number, was told it is electrical or fuel problem, they have no record of complaints . . hmmm! Have heard of too many people having the same stalling problem to believe that, but if anyone has any idaes for solutions we would certianly appreciate your posting.

RJD is right, it could be a crank sensor, but check the main rellay and the fuel pump rellay, these are parts that last 5-10 years. also if any of you are mechanically inclined you could carry a fuel pressure gauge in the jeep, so when it stalls you could have a lead to go on, and also check for spark when it stalls, and we can go from there...good luck.

I bet you $100 that the problem is related to a bad ground or some wiring prob in the car. People spend SOOOO much money on sensors that dont need to be replaced, all because something simple like the terminals on the battery or ground connections are dirty.

BTW- if you have had a bunch of things replaced and it didnt fix the prob the you have been ripped by a shitty mechanic. Simple tests would tell you if the sensor was faulty, not by paying to replace it.

I also have a 95 jeep gr chk limited with about 120,000 on it. i have had it stall on me repeatedly two years ago. I took it to the dealership and got the crank sensor replaced. Worked great for two years. Well two weeks ago, the problem comes back. it stalls on me some more and i get it checked out. its the crank sensor again so in two years i had to replace this sensor. something is not right. well just yesterday problem comes back. i have some thoughts on the subject from my experience. The way my car has been acting is like this.......I can turn on the car in the driveway just fine. i can make it through the first stop sign just fine but once i get that engine running higher rpms say around 2500, the minute i let off the gas to brake or the minute i come to a stoplight, the car quits. I can turn it on again but it will just stall out again. The way i have remedied the situation for now is by turning on the car and revving the engine at a contstant for about a minute and slowly letting my foot off the gas. the second i let the foot off the rpm's dip down to about 200 or so just about to stall and it will jump up to about 600 or so where it is supposed to idle. once i get to that point, my car works fine until i leave it off for longer than about 6 hours. i agree with the last post. i do not believe that whole problem is the crank sensor. i believe that there could possibly be a small electrical connection problem of some kind. I plan to take it in to a trusted mechanic and family friend this week to see if he can give me some ideas without having to start throwing parts at it. Here is another hint for those of you who say they can't get the problem to work at the dealership. drive very cautious to the dealership and do not speed or rev the engine in any way. Once at the dealership throw it in park rev the engine to about 2500 and then take your foot off of the gas quickly. The car should stall out....at least thats the way mine works. If anyone else has this problem and has found a fix then email me. i appreciate it.

To all. Does prob get progressively worse? If so, change ign coil. I have to change @ every 1-2 years. I've been told spark output on these engines is so hot, it's hard on replacement coils(i'm too cheap to buy perfoemance coil)

My grilfriends 97 grand cherokee had the same problem. It turned out to be an electrical short. The problem was where the wires come out of the computer on the passenger side. These wires rubbed on the A/C lines and wore away the coating. We took it to four shops and noone could find this. Once we found the problem I put some caulk (sp) around the broke part. This kept the mosture out and made the computer stop flipping out.

My idle air control mtr was replaced along with my pcv valve and my jeep has been working perfectly. No close calls, also there is no more jumping of my RPM needle. it doesn't idle as rough and i am happy......so far. If i do not respond to this post again then you will know what was done to fix my problem. good luck to everyone.

The engine needs Air, Spark and Fuel to run.

There are a number of things to look at.
With that many miles;

Pull the dipstick out and check the oil to make sure it is not brown or has water in it.
This is to make sure your head gasket is not leaking coolant into the cylinders.

Check the Air Filter to make sure it is clean.

Next are the spark plugs. Make sure they are not over 65,000 miles old. Despite the great improvements in electronic ignition, spark plugs between 60,000 and 100,000 are pushing the limit.

And finally what I really think the problem is … look at the distributor cap and rotor.
I changed mine at 100,000 miles when the gas mileage started to drop. I was very surprised to see the extremely poor condition. I thought that the electronic ignition would not be as harsh as a points system but there was burning on the rotor tip and heavy gray carbon buildup on the distributor cap posts.

Another thing may be water in the fuel. I would not suspect the fuel filter since I have been disassembling fuel filters for 8 years now and I have yet to find anything in them. Not one speck of dirt. I now rarely change fuel filters unless there is a fuel pump replacement or the gas tank is suspected or is known to have water in it.

See my post for info and solution with a similar problem--http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=150308.

Looks like Catkinson has it right, too.

we have had the same problem, jeep starts ok and runs for about 20 to 30 minutes then cuts out, it takes about 2 minutes to restart then cuts out every five minutes after that (very frustrating and dangerous). It went to an Auto Electrician who replaced the coils, all the censors, and it still had the problem. They sent it to a Jeep specialists who said it might be the computer, they used another computer but different year to ours and it still had the same problem, they said there were no computers in New Zealand and that we needed to get one from Japan (just great, we really didn't need this). We finally went to a third person who apparently specialised in vehicle computers...we had been without our Jeep for about 5-6 weeks and it only took this third and last crowd 2 days to fix the fault. Hope this helps, it surely would of helped us in the first place if we had known about this crowd. Their website is www.ecu.co.nz.

I need major help. I have a 93 grand cher with 194,000 miles on it. I have never had a problem until now. When driving the jeep sometimes it stalls and then starts back up again and you keep driving. Or othertimes it stalls when you are stopped and you need to start it back up. I had it at 2 dealerships but they can not find anything wrong because it is an intermittent problem and never happens when they have it. Did anyone else ever have this problem??IT IS DRIVING ME CRAZY!!!!!!!!

There is a fuse box under the hood of the 93 Cherokee - The problem will be a yellow small 20 amp fuse (you will know this by removing with engine run and it stalls and fails to restart) - this disables the vehicles ignition control module preventing the vehicle from starting or continuing to run - over the years this fuse can become corroded because it is outside the vehicle and loose, thus the sparactic stalling in motion - the dealer will replace sensors cause they appear to be old and cost you money, but they fail to mention as a safety they will disalble the battery and sometimes remove the fuse and in most cases replace it with a fresh one without thinking that this was probably the problem - clean all your fuse connections outside the vehicle. Try this before spending a lot of cash.

I would like to thank all who posted Jeep stalling remedies on this site. My daughter's 94 Jeep began stalling in the same manner as many of you have experienced. At fist it was stalling once every five days or so ,(and start right back up)then every day then every time it warmed up 15-20 minutes. It was the crank shaft positioning sensor. Sixty bucks and 20 minutes work and Buta-BING Buta-BOOM

One of my Jeeps had a bad crankshaft position sensor causing the stalling, but the other two had water in the gas. Something so hard to detect but easy to fix. On my 95 and 99, they were stalling occasionally at lights. Two bottles of dry gas each remedied the problem and I changed where I bought gas. In the winter, I put in a bottle of 95 cent dry gas each tankful, never had another stalling problem. Might wanna give this a try!

There is a fuse box under the hood of the 93 Cherokee - The problem will be a yellow small 20 amp fuse (you will know this by removing with engine run and it stalls and fails to restart) - this disables the vehicles ignition control module preventing the vehicle from starting or continuing to run - over the years this fuse can become corroded because it is outside the vehicle and loose, thus the sparactic stalling in motion - the dealer will replace sensors cause they appear to be old and cost you money, but they fail to mention as a safety they will disalble the battery and sometimes remove the fuse and in most cases replace it with a fresh one without thinking that this was probably the problem - clean all your fuse connections outside the vehicle. Try this before spending a lot of cash.

THE FUSE THAT SUAIGE IS REFFERING TO IS FOR THE AUTO SHUTDOWN ENGINE CONTROLER IT CONTROLS THE ASD CONTROL IN CASE OF A ROLLOVER OR ACCIDENTAL FIRE jeepman600@aol.com

HELP, my 97 Grand Cherokee is drivng me crazy too!!!!

Same stall problem: started out every once in a while; now it's often.
Isolated it to an electrical ignition problem...not a fuel issue.

Read my repair manual. Checked wires and coil resistence: all within specification. Cleaned all electrical connections and grounds. No go. Replaced distributor (cam shaft was loose) which came with a new camshaft sensor. No go. After reading lots of posts on the CPS issues, replaced crankshaft position sensor (you have to be an contortionist)... unfortunately, the problem still there. Now, I'm getting depressed.

It's actually out there running now, but that means nothing as it continues to stall at idle or cut out and in on the highway in a very random fashion. But, tonight I noticed that it wants to run after it's been on and off for a while. Not that this means anything as it's gone for days, weeks, months before doing it again, even though it's gotten to the point of daily now. However, I am noticing that maybe the problem SEEMS to be more of an issue when it first runs, but gets better after the ignition system has run a bit...not sure on that one though, but now after an hour it won't stall. It'll be interesting to see how it responds tomorrow morning.

Can a coil, be so intermittent....I usually think of them as breaking down in heat or just failing altogther, but usually not like this? The electrical resistance is right on the money.

Other symtoms: The ABS light comes on and stays on occasionally then goes out if I stop and restart motor. Once the fuel gauge dove to empty and gave it's low fuel warning but went back up. Since then I discovered a bad ground to battery from chassis but that has been fixed and ABS still lights.

When engine is running, if I nudge the ignition switch forward slightly, the ABS comes on but goes out when I release switch. Thought maybe the ignition switch is failing. Or this could be normal. ABS light comes on a lot.

Cleaned, even swapped all relays in power distribution box (they're all the same part number), still a no go. Cleaned all connectors, still a no go.

I'll check some of the leads mentioned, especially shorts, but I'm running out of ideas and have a lot on my plate now, so spending time trying to fix this guy is straining my patience. So, now I'm driving my big Chevy one ton dually truck with it's 454 and it's gas appetite is going to kill my budget at todays prices.

Is there another location for an auto shut-down control and/or relay then what's available in the power distribution box?

Any ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks

Am having same problem. Replaced Crank Sensor, Distributor, O2 sensors. IT backfired the other day and knocked something loose in the catalytic converter. Ever since then it still does it but not near as much. It still gives "Intermittent Loss of Cam/Crank sensor" code.

I had a problem that was similar to this, it ended up being a small o-ring in some sort of idle valve. The o-ring was chopped up and causing problems. It cost $1.48 to fix it. Pulled out the idle valve, cleaned it and replaced the o-ring. What happened before I fixed it is the vehicle would just drop idle, almost like it quit, and then magically start and keep running, all within a half second. This happened randomly.

This might not have anything to do with your problem, but it's similar, so I figured I'd throw it out there.

SOLUTION !! It was a solution for my 98 Jeep Grand Cherokee stalling problem.This should help. I read the solution on another car forum some time ago when my 98 Jeep Cherokee had the same stalling problems. I was frantically searching the web for an answer! The screws are too long and are shorting out the board inside the ECM. What you do is back out the screws, located under the plugs, on the front of the ECM (husband says they're a booger to get to and they are torx head screws). Back out the screws 2 full turns and you're problems should be solved (just like mine were). Give it a try. The guy who posted this on the other forum is one smart guy!! My Jeep is back to normal after backing out the screws. I know it sounds too good to be true, but it worked!!! Now I want to share what I learned from the Forum Guy with everyone who owns a Jeep. Good Luck!

I did this too, and it worked great... for a couple months... then the problems came back worse... Just speaking of my experience, but this was only a temporary fix. I ended up getting a new PCM/ECM and now it's finally fixed. The aftermarket one I got is 'slimmer' than the original and at first I thought they sent me the wrong one. Anyway. Glad it's working for you, but don't hold your breath ;-).

my gf's pinto wagon stalls when you stop too.