I'm planning on doing a whole engine work on my B16A2. I am planning on installing Toda Pistons, Eagle Rods, JG Edelbrock Intake Manifold, Skunk 2: Camshafts, Springs, Retainers, Spoon Valves, P&P and RC Engineering 310cc Injectors.

If I do install all the parts listed I was wondering how much boost will I be able to run? By the way my turbo kit comes with a Garrett T3/T4 Turbo.

Also any advice on what things I'm missing, or other parts that could be better will be appreciated.

Thanx!!

One thing you are missing is the computer to run the goodies. Id say start at 12psi and see how it feels remembering that safe boost is the best way to begin.
All the best :flash:

P.s After the first run screw in another 8psi it should be fun.

if youre planning on running a lot of boost, id suggest going with larger injectors than the 310s your planning on, so you dont have any problems with them not providing enough fuel.
also stay away from the aggressive NA cams if youre boostin, theyre gonna rob power from ya

Originally posted by alessandro
I'm planning on doing a whole engine work on my B16A2. I am planning on installing Toda Pistons, Eagle Rods, JG Edelbrock Intake Manifold, Skunk 2: Camshafts, Springs, Retainers, Spoon Valves, P&P and RC Engineering 310cc Injectors.

If I do install all the parts listed I was wondering how much boost will I be able to run? By the way my turbo kit comes with a Garrett T3/T4 Turbo.

Also any advice on what things I'm missing, or other parts that could be better will be appreciated.

Thanx!!

Up to 14 PSI because thats all the stock sleeves will handle. Now, if you get it sleeved you should be able a handle 20, what brand of turbo kit are you getting?
Also do what TrailerParkJake said and get bigger injectors and no aggressive cams, get cams specifically for turboing.

Oh and one more thing, just get the Skunk2 manifold instead of Edelbrock. It does just as good and costs a couple hundred less.

Originally posted by alessandro
I'm planning on doing a whole engine work on my B16A2. I am planning on installing Toda Pistons, Eagle Rods, JG Edelbrock Intake Manifold, Skunk 2: Camshafts, Springs, Retainers, Spoon Valves, P&P and RC Engineering 310cc Injectors.

If I do install all the parts listed I was wondering how much boost will I be able to run? By the way my turbo kit comes with a Garrett T3/T4 Turbo.

Also any advice on what things I'm missing, or other parts that could be better will be appreciated.

Thanx!!

leave your stock camshafts and valves... using 310cc injectors you should be able to run upto 10 lbs without having to worry about running lean anything higher though the injectors won't be able to keep up... what kinda fuel management do you plan on using? personally if you're gonna replace your internals you might as well have it resleeved while you're at it...

thanx for the help, ok so if the Skunk2 intake man. will do the same for less then that's the one :p .

For the computer, what do you think about the Hondata S100 w/boost.
Any opinions?

For the cams which one should I get, I was thinking maybe Toda or Crane let me know what you think.

And about the boost, I just want to know how much top boost will I be able to run, just so I can regulate it.

Thanx

Originally posted by alessandro
thanx for the help, ok so if the Skunk2 intake man. will do the same for less then that's the one :p .

For the computer, what do you think about the Hondata S100 w/boost.
Any opinions?

For the cams which one should I get, I was thinking maybe Toda or Crane let me know what you think.

And about the boost, I just want to know how much top boost will I be able to run, just so I can regulate it.

Thanx

Leave your stock cams like CasperGSR said, you want the least agressive possible. Or buy a cam that is specifically for turbo with the duration on the exhaust a little less so it spools the turbo faster. Gude has good cams but I think they are expensive, not sure though on the price of Toda.
What kind of compression are you running, then I can tell you how much boost.
Oh and good choice with the Hondata.

Right now it's stock compression, 10,6:1. But when I install the new pistons, the compression will rise to 12.4:1.

There's a Skunk2 Camshaft specifically for Turbo, the same for Toda.
I don't have prices with me right now.

with 12.4 it is gonna take VERY good tuning to handle anything above 5 psi.

just stay down around the 10's to 1 cr, then you could handle a fair amount of boost, I dint know much about how much boost certain setups will handle but I know 12.4 is way to high to run high boost levels.

Yeah I was thinking the same, but what would be better, having this high compression pistons and low boost, or to have lower compression pistons and more boost?

I've seen a set of Crower Pistons at 10.9:1

Thanx

bump :p come on help me out here :D

Originally posted by alessandro
Yeah I was thinking the same, but what would be better, having this high compression pistons and low boost, or to have lower compression pistons and more boost?

I've seen a set of Crower Pistons at 10.9:1

Thanx

go with low compresion and high boost. ad boost to a 12.5:1 compresion and you will be beging for detonation.

the evo for example uses 8.8:1 compression.

I see, thanx a lot for the help!. Hey nice car in your sig, but I couldn't help to notice, excuse me if I'm being ignorant but isn't it a Ford? why under your name it says Mercury? :confused:

its ford motors, but badged mercury. you now, like lexus-toyota, nissan-infiniti, honda-acura, ford-lincoln-mercury, dodge-chrysler-plymouth, chevy-gmc-geo.

I think ford even owns jaguar now, and owns volvo. shit, I bet in another 20 years every cars coming from one name.:rolleyes:

Originally posted by 94tegRS
its ford motors, but badged mercury. you now, like lexus-toyota, nissan-infiniti, honda-acura, ford-lincoln-mercury, dodge-chrysler-plymouth, chevy-gmc-geo.

I think ford even owns jaguar now, and owns volvo. shit, I bet in another 20 years every cars coming from one name.:rolleyes:

yeah that would be correct. they are badged mercury in the US.

also you are probably right in 20 years there will be only one car company.:(

Let's hope not!

Ok returning to my question, I can get 9.5 or 10.5 compression pistons, will I be able to run more than 13 boost with them?, considering the other engine mods that I'm planning.

Thanx!

Originally posted by alessandro
Let's hope not!

Ok returning to my question, I can get 9.5 or 10.5 compression pistons, will I be able to run more than 13 boost with them?, considering the other engine mods that I'm planning.

Thanx!

With 9.5 pistons you can only run about 10 PSI. With 10.5 pistons only 5-6 PSI, with extremely good tuning. But if you got 9:1 pistons you can run about 14. You only loose like 5-10 HP for every .5 compression, but you can boost more to make up for it plus gain even more.
How much octane is your high test gas where you live, 93 or 91?

You should choose high boost or high C/R. Why try to mix two completly different setups for the street without the benefit of C16+ octane. I mean NA uses lighter(weaker) rods and pistons(domed), while turbocharging you need heavier stronger rods and pistons(dished) to handle the immense cylinder pressures. Honda drag cars don't even use VTEC on their engines, they disable it. Say your turning a B16 with its near perfect 1.74 R/S ratio into a high boost engine 20psi+ (forged internals, turbo cams, big turbo, FMIC, 550cc, Sleeve or blockgaurd?, etc...), so with the turbo cams, VTEC isnt going to work, so how do you go about disabling it?

I think I would go with high boost, so the 9.1 could be the ones, the highest octane fuel available here in Peru is 97

I don't think I'd disable VTEC cause I'm not planning on going full drag or racing, you say that with the Turbo Cams, VTEC will not work? In the description it says "VTEC DOHC Turbo" If what you say is correct then I'll have to think, either to keep the stock cams or to put on Turbo Cams and disable VTEC :confused:

Originally posted by alessandro
I think I would go with high boost, so the 9.1 could be the ones, the highest octane fuel available here in Peru is 97

I don't think I'd disable VTEC cause I'm not planning on going full drag or racing, you say that with the Turbo Cams, VTEC will not work? In the description it says "VTEC DOHC Turbo" If what you say is correct then I'll have to think, either to keep the stock cams or to put on Turbo Cams and disable VTEC :confused:

WOW 97 octane, that must be nice. You can probably run about 18 PSI on the 9:1 pistons with 97.

Just use your stock cams, turbos apps for the street don't like big cams. With 18 PSI you going to make a lot of power, so forget about the cams, don't waste your money.

yeah it's pretty cool but pretty expensive too (around 40 bucks to fill the tank) but I don't have gas problems cause one of my grandfathers owns some gas stations and let's me refuel for free :sun:

I was wondering how much is the gas in the USA and what's the higher octane available?

And about the cams, yeah I think I'll just leave em stock

In my particular area the highest is 93 Octane. Out in California it's 91 I think. I heard some places having like 101 octane unleaded, but it's like 3.50 a gallon or something like that. Here currently in my area of Pennsylvania the prices are like 1.36 for 87 octane, 1.47 for 89 octane, and 1.59 for 93 octane. You can get racing gas called CAM2 its like 114 octane but it's leaded and will clog Cat. converters and fry O2 censors. And also you cannot fill your car up with it, you have to put it in gas cans and take it away - environmental reasons cuz of the lead I guess.

oh that sucks... well here in Peru we are more free from those kind of laws so we can mostly do whatever you want to your car, the cops don't bother that much.

A question, you know where Peru is right :p ? It's just because there are a lot of people in the USA that don't what Peru is. :bloated:

Returning to my car, there were some other things that I had to look, will 440 cc Injectors do? and what about a Ignition Module? I was thinking maybe the HKS Twin Power Distributor or Crane Cams HI6.

Oh and by the way I'm getting 9.9 SRP Racing Pistons, hope fully I'll be running good boost

here in WA, it is 92 octane and its like 1.79, a couple places it is 93 octane though.

and if you go to crower.com, they can make any compression you want for 80 bucks more. but sounds like you already ordered

No I haven't ordered yet, but you think that ordering some 9.5 compression pistons would be worth it? I mean would the boost be worth the 80 bucks?

well, I dont know, but just telling you you can get whatever you want. but the higher you go, the more power you have while the turbo spools

Originally posted by 94tegRS
but the higher you go, the more power you have while the turbo spools

Thats true but in turn the more boost will far out weigh the losses of that power. Like the difference between 9.5 and 9 CR horsepower wise is only like 5-10 HP. But going from 9.5 to 9:1 you will be able to boost about 4 more PSI, which will make like 30 HP. Get what I'm sayin? Loose 10(if that) to gain 30.

yeah, I do now. I just thought it was like the cylinder cpould take a certain amount, so if your engione compressed the air more then the air coming in had to be compressed less, and if you had low compression youcould compress the incoming air more so that in the end either way you had the same pressure in the cylinder and about the same power. but I guess I was way off.

Ok thanx I got everything clear now. I think I'll go with the 9.1 Comp. ones. I'll just have to find other ways to reduce turbo lag.

There are some other things that I had to look, will 440 cc Injectors do? and what about a Ignition Module? I was thinking maybe the HKS Twin Power Distributor or Crane Cams HI6.

Originally posted by alessandro
There are some other things that I had to look, will 440 cc Injectors do?

Depends on how much power you are making.? I'd say that the 440 CC injectors will support somewhere around 300 HP. So with 18 PSI you are right around that area cuz you will probably atleast double your horsepower and make somewhere around 320 HP. If you wanted to stay on the safe side run 16 PSI, and you will probably be right at 300 BHP.
Oh and about your ignition module, I would go with MSD, they are really good.

ok then all of that is clear, now another question has arisen. :confused:
Will I need a Boost Controller? and also, where does it plug into and how does it control the boost?

Also I got today my Apexi Coilovers and are being installed alongside Ingalls Camber Kits. It's gonna be ready hopefully tomorrow afternoon, I can't wait to test it!! :D

a boost controller is a good idea to get if you want to be able to adjust your boost levels depending on if you're on the street or at the track... you can get a manual boost controller for relatively cheap, assuming you have an external wastegate it can hook up directly to that. As far as the compression on the pistons I don't think you're gonna be able to find a 9.0 to 1 compression that easily, I looked all over for them for my b18c1 and the lowest I was able to find was 9.5:1 by JE. Personally I'd say do some darton sleeves and je's with either crower or eagle rods... just my opinion.

srp 9.0:1 for B16 http://www.crower.com/cgi-bin/detail.cgi?prod_id=99449

Originally posted by 94tegRS
srp 9.0:1 for B16 http://www.crower.com/cgi-bin/detail.cgi?prod_id=99449

they don't make them for a b18 though do they? I thought that's what he was running, didn't realize it was a b16.

maybe if I looked at his sig I would have seen it has a b16.:silly:

see kids this is what happened when you've done too many drugs in your life... you start to forget what exactly you have put into your car, I'll correct myself b4 anyone else does, you can get 9.0:1 compression pistons for b18's cause that's what i have, not 9.5:1... :thinkerg: you should never be under the influence of drugs when driving, and apparently I shouldn't be online. :smoker:

LOL, that was funny.

Yeah about the pistons I'm getting SPR with Crower rods, about the resleeving I'm still checking around.

Ok, a manual boost controller connects directly into de external wastegate, and what about an electronic one? does it hooks up to the wastegate too?

Is there much of a difference besides price between the srp pistons and the JE pistons? Cause JE doesn't have drop ins for a b18b, and I found the srp's for like 320 shipped with rings, which is dumb cheap. If anyone knows help me out thanks.

Is there much of a difference besides price between the srp pistons and the JE pistons? Cause JE doesn't have drop ins for a b18b, and I found the srp's for like 320 shipped with rings, which is dumb cheap. If anyone knows help me out thanks.

OH NO!!!!! PLEASE TELL ME YOUR NOT GOING TO TRY TO RUN 18 LBS OF BOOST ON A 12.5 COMPRESSION RATIO!!!!!!! WHAT THE HECK MAN!! U NEED TO LOWER THAT A WHOLE LOT!!!!! YOUR GOING TO HAVE TO RUN RACE GAS AND HAVE SOME ULTRA TUNING AND AN ENGINE ON STEROIDS WITH SUPER SLEEVES AND PISTONS TO BE ABLE TO TUNE THAT!!! IT WILL NOT BE A DAILY DRIVER AFTER THAT. YOU WILL PROBABLY BE PEELING OUT AT 1000 RPMS....LOL!!!!!

I agree with you about the compression, but at 1000, which is about idle, I doubt there will be ANY boost. so no peeling out there.

SRP pistons are not made for FI applications. SRP pistons are made by JE pistons company. The SRP are supposed to be all-motor and JE are for turbos. SRP pistons will not handle any more boost than stock pistons, meaning 12 PSI. More than 12 and they will melt, this is why they are so cheap-because they SUCK!!!:flamer: SRP

sorry I couldn't answer earlier, I had my pc taken away because some damn virus busted up some things...

about running with 12 comp, that was before, now I'm planning on buying Wiseco 9.0.

Turbo motors love high lift with short duration. so finding a set of cams would help. Definetely would sleeve to block while I'm in there, also, 310cc injectors are way to small, i personally would go with 550's. I woould start at 12p.s.i. better to be safe than sorry, becuase unless you are loaded, it would be a real bitch to replace what you had just completed.

I'm gettin 440 cc injectors.

I'm still somewhat confused about the cams, I was adviced to keep the stock cams, I'm not really sure yet.... any help?

The stock cams are alright for moderate power levels, 200-300hp. But for the most noticable difference, a set of cams with high lift and short duration is the way to go, they allow more power to be made in the mid and upper power ranges, while reatining a somewhat stock idle.

Originally posted by PWMAN
SRP pistons are not made for FI applications. SRP pistons are made by JE pistons company. The SRP are supposed to be all-motor and JE are for turbos. SRP pistons will not handle any more boost than stock pistons, meaning 12 PSI. More than 12 and they will melt, this is why they are so cheap-because they SUCK!!!:flamer: SRP

Well then what forged pistons can you get on a b18A motor that will keep stock compression ratio?? 9.2:1 ???

JE 9:1 is close enough. If you really want 9.2:1 than just mill the head a little.

about the 97 octane.....his 97 octane is not comparable to our 97 octane. i know europe uses a completely different formula for calculating octane (something about rons or mons or something) and im sure peru would be differnt from the usa too.

Yeah your probably right.

If you want to run a lot of boost, your going to have to go lower than 9.0 or your going to have to run race gas on the street, which almost no one can afford to do. USA octane compares to no one elses.
As an example, the new Subaru STi makes 300 hp on pump gas, at 15psi boost, and also uses variable valve timing (vtec), but thousands of hours of development time under laboratory dyno conditions were used to acheive this with the kind of dependability you need in a street car. And it has a compression of 8.2 to 1. It also has an intercooler with water spray, specially designed combustion chambers and tumble generators for more swirl in the chamber, all of which helps control detonation. Water injection would help, but if it fails to work, you'll detonate. Read this. http://sdsefi.com/techocta.htm

I'm running 8.5 PSI of non-intercooled boost in my Daytona right now on 89 octane with 8.5:1 compression. No knock or ping. T2 intercooled daytonas run 12 PSI intercooled boost stock on 8.5:1 compression and it says to run ''unleaded regular''. The only reason I run 89 is because 87 has a whole bunch of floating crap in it that clogs fuel injectors. 89 is clear as can be.

Originally posted by outsidethebox
If you want to run a lot of boost, your going to have to go lower than 9.0 or your going to have to run race gas on the street, which almost no one can afford to do. USA octane compares to no one elses.
As an example, the new Subaru STi makes 300 hp on pump gas, at 15psi boost, and also uses variable valve timing (vtec), but thousands of hours of development time under laboratory dyno conditions were used to acheive this with the kind of dependability you need in a street car. And it has a compression of 8.2 to 1. It also has an intercooler with water spray, specially designed combustion chambers and tumble generators for more swirl in the chamber, all of which helps control detonation. Water injection would help, but if it fails to work, you'll detonate. Read this. http://sdsefi.com/techocta.htm


the sti system is not Vtec type...its only variable timining not lift too....big difference....also the sti is not even close to be as extremely tuned as the evo with 8.8:1 and running 19 psi

the STi will walk all over the Lancer, US versions anyway.

Originally posted by Cronic
the STi will walk all over the Lancer, US versions anyway.


you have not read any reviews have you....the evo manages to take down the sti due to better handling......true by a narow margin but it still manages

www.buschurracing.com has an EVO 8 running 12.6 sec @19psi

Originally posted by 1320B4U
www.buschurracing.com has an EVO 8 running 12.6 sec @19psi


wow they must have done that just trough tunning sice the evo is running stock 19 psi

I really don't see 19psi being the stock boost setting. I'll have to do some digging. Do you have a like to where you saw this?

Also, the Lancer's transmissions have always sucked, the outside is horrid in comparison, and it has 30 less bhp then the STi.

Originally posted by Cronic
and it has 30 less bhp then the STi.

29 less BHP, get it right! J/K LOL
Anyway, the AWD system of the STI takes away alot of HP. So like I said before, from a rolling start say 60 MPH they are probably going to be pretty even.

Originally posted by super_man_3179


Well then what forged pistons can you get on a b18A motor that will keep stock compression ratio?? 9.2:1 ???

SRP are both for turbo and all motor apps. Why would you get low compression all motor? I have JE SRP pistons in my D series motor. 9:1.

IMHO however, JE pistons suck. They're tolerances are only .01" Which is shit compared to other companies such as Wiseco/Endyn/Arias which are closer to .001".

Just personal preference however. My SRP's have held up well in VERY unfavorable detonating conditions. Only the valve reliefs seem to have taken any damage from detonation, and a little sanding will cure the hotspots.

For some Lancer EVO8 info, check this link.

http://www.baic.net/forums/showthread.php?threadid=253

the stock head on a b16 can handle 17-18psi and the stock block without a tune will hold 8-9 pounds. a motor i just built it was a b16 with an 18g turbo with je 9:5:1cr pistons and fmu and vafc holds 17 psi daily driving with out mods to the head. just some info my expierience with boost and the b16

Well not to be argumentative... the head and block don't give out after XXXpsi, they flow, and handle power.

The stock B16a* pistons can hold ~300whp, soon thereafter the piston's ringlands will give out, and around 310whp the rods will bend, and then snap under the pressure. Detonation will of course speed up this process.

The stock B16a* head flows very well. Upwards of 350whp. GSR flows slightly better up top. I believe it was about 1.5% or something marginal.

B series motors handle about the same power.

D series give out around 300.

i must disagree with you cronic, not in a sense about your whp figure, but in a sense that your saying at exaclty 300whp and thats not accurate because its not exactly 300whp, some motors have been perfectly tuned and blew up before 300whp and some have handled more and ran fine. too say exactly 300whp is not accurate.

but i believe you in the 300whp number but i like to say, every b series motor should be able to handle around 300whp and i wouldnt push more then 300whp

and also to say the rods will bend at 310whp is also incorrect because you dont know when the rods will bend could be sooner could be later. no 2 motors are build the same so you cant expect them to handle the same power

Re-read my friend. I said around 300. Which is absolutely correct.

cronic not to be argumenative but the b16 i spoke of is my daily driven 17 psi and 355 whp and the stock rods are holding just fine as is my head and your theory that a gsr head flows better that a b16 tell that to the people who make hondas because apparently they dont know that their design is flawed because a b16 is the same head as the b18c5 minus a factory port and polish

The stock B16a pistons can hold 300whp, soon thereafter the piston's ringlands will give out

thats what you said, it doesnt say around 300whp, it says pistons can hold 300whp. but thats cool if thats what you meant because you seem to be the only other person that knows the stock internals will only handle around 300whp, others seem to think more or less or whatevers.

and then rods will snap at around 310whp. 10whp is nothing if they snap at 310whp then they can certainly snap at 300whp. it would be just fair to say that you shouldnt go higher then 300whp, any higher and you lose reliability. you can go higher then 300whp but higher and its not a given on how long the motor will last. but as a general rule and previous motors that tuners have seen and tuned, anything higher then 300whp has lead to a blown motor faster, so its not that its impossible its just that hte motor will likely not last as long

actually a test ive seen on a lsvtec with a b16 and a gsr head, the gsr head came out with more hp, shown on a dyno sheet. gsr head is a better head to start out with anyways, more potential

cronic did you even read my post, i said stock rods holding just fine @ 350+ hp.been boosted @ 17 psi for year now daily driven, not to be rude dude but duh! a gsr will get more horsepower beause of the larger displacement also more torque,( that's like comparing an h22a to any 1.8 vtec and trying to tell me that sock the h22 would have more hp duh duh duh duh)(like those dumb domestic idiots say" no replacement for displacent ,even a turbo") it is not an idication that that the head flows any better because like i said the b16 head is identical minus the itr's slighly larger valves and a factory port and polish and if you know your stuff you would know that that itr's head is the best honda head from the factory. i told that this is what i do for a living man build motors

Aparently no one here reads...
A ~ as I put in front of the 300, means around.
Your motor making 355whp on stock pistons/rods is a freak of nature. Personally I dont believe it's anything but luck that your engine is still alive.

No one is contesting that a GSR can make more power. Im not sure what you're getting at. I've seen a flow bench of a stock B16a2, and a B18c1 head. The GSR flows slightly better up top. kthxbye.
A b16 is not the same as an ITR, the cams are different, the valve springs are different, as well as the light PnP. You are very wrong here. Actually, the combustion chambers might even be different here. I dont know that for a fact however.

If you build motors for a living, an use stock rods to make 355whp. You're a retard, and your putting your customers on a razor edge of performance and reliability.

The stock B16a pistons can hold 300whp, soon thereafter the piston's ringlands will give out

thats what you said, it doesnt say around 300whp, it says pistons can hold 300whp. but thats cool if thats what you meant because you seem to be the only other person that knows the stock internals will only handle around 300whp, others seem to think more or less or whatevers.

and then rods will snap at around 310whp. 10whp is nothing if they snap at 310whp then they can certainly snap at 300whp. it would be just fair to say that you shouldnt go higher then 300whp, any higher and you lose reliability. you can go higher then 300whp but higher and its not a given on how long the motor will last. but as a general rule and previous motors that tuners have seen and tuned, anything higher then 300whp has lead to a blown motor faster, so its not that its impossible its just that hte motor will likely not last as long

actually a test ive seen on a lsvtec with a b16 and a gsr head, the gsr head came out with more hp, shown on a dyno sheet. gsr head is a better head to start out with anyways, more potential

Im not arguing with anything your sayin here. 300whp is where i'd stop on stock internals. Too many motors have I watched blow up above that number.

again i say did you even read my post i said that i was running forged pistons JE 9:5:1 cr which in will hold upwards of 350 hp no sweat so before you go and talk your shit" READ!" and yes i guess what i meant to say is the heads heads are identical cast from the same shit from the factory and yes the valvetrain parts are different never said they were not i said that the heads were the same. and yet again you are wrong because b16 flow better for the same reason the type-r does so go look at some more flow charts and make sure you have your glasses on okay BIGBOY

I'm pretty sure the b16 head flows better than the b18c. But you guys did make the mistake of thinking he meant at exactly 300whp. Boosted how about a posting yor dyno numbers up, cause quite frankly i call BS. No way your rods held up to a year's worth of abuse at 330+whp.

Prove me wrong then. Go do your own reasearch and post it up. I already have seen the flow charts from the two heads. There is a marginal difference, but it's there.

the gsr head does flow better, ive seen dyno number on a ls vtec with b16 and gsr head. it made about 10 more hp.

ok well now that boostedteg said his cr is lower i believe it. because jeff @ IB is making 350 something whp on his gsr stock block but with a thicker hg to lower compression so i believe it is possible.

but the fact that you say only 350 at 17psi is BS, you either got the worse motor ever, or you got the worse tune ever. ive never seen any motor making that little whp at that psi.

It could be too large, or too small of a turbo.

My friend's LS made 276whp @ 18psi on a PT67/t3 (.63a/r)
The turbo didn't make full boost until 7K, the turbo was rediculously big for his car, and still had the small shaft in it with only a stage 5 wheel. So there was no way he was going to get anywhere with that turbo. I couldn't believe anyone even made that combination for him.. but anything for a buck I guess.

With a properly sized turbo, on a GSR. 10psi should net 300whp. Gaining anywhere from 7-12whp/psi. Just depends on tuning, and the size of the turbo.

not to be rude dude but duh! a gsr will get more horsepower beause of the larger displacement also more torque,( that's like comparing an h22a to any 1.8 vtec and trying to tell me that sock the h22 would have more hp duh duh duh duh)

he didnt say B18C vs B16A ENGINE, it was a LSVTEC with a GSR HEAD and one head a SI HEAD