Our Community is 940,000 Strong. Join Us.


EGR code & starting issue


senrab
06-07-2010, 10:29 PM
Hi my 97 SE 3.8 200k+ mileage, was running good then had a starting issue. My son got it started and drove it home but now it won't stay running. It starts and dies immediately, it doesn't run for more than a second unless I use ether even if you WOT. It had a1406 EGR code which has since been cleared.
Things done:
1. Checked spark on each plug - all OK (before using the ether)
2. Checked fuel pressure, it was low. The regulator is not leaking fuel through the diaphram. Do these fail often? The pump and filter were replaced. Haven't checked the pressure again but think it should be good. (have to borrow the gage again)

I read somewhere on a thread that a oil pressure switch will cut out the fuel pump. Can't find the thread again. If this is true how can I test / bypass to find out if this is the problem.

The EGR code hasn't been dealt with yet and I didn't know if that could be causing my issue. I haven't checked the ohm readings yet (tomorrow night). Is there a way other than resistance readings to check this?

Basically it acts the same way it was before replacing the pump. Without the ability to keep it running for more than 1 second it's difficult to troubleshoot and try things. Also the security light is not lit so I don't think it is related to that.

I'm open to suggestions.

HotZ28
06-08-2010, 11:15 PM
You need to check fuel prime pressure! There was a recall on the FPR (do a search for manifold explosions) for your particular year. The EGR problem can usually be resolved by a good cleaning of the EGR valve & pintel with carb cleaner and a liberal coating of PBblaster applied after the cleaning. The rumor about the oil pressure switch cutting off the fuel pump is nothing but hearsay. The circuit is only an alternate power source to the primary circuit. It will not stop the FP from operating!

senrab
06-22-2010, 04:22 PM
Well an update:
I'm carring close to 60 psi on the fuel rail. Took the EGR off and cleaned it (it had some carbon but not as bad as I've seen).
It still starts and dies instantly. I've seen some things on the VATS but most of what I read have a couple of common things.
The light blinks or stays on (dash light) and they won't crank. I don't have either. The small red light on the dash doesn't blink anymore. I believe it is part of the security system but don't know when it quit.
I also checked the ground bar on the drivers side. It was clean with no rust.
If it was the crank sensor would it start at all?
I don't have a noid light and the store in town doesn't loan / rent them. So I can't verify the signal to the injectors.
I'm probably over thinking this but I really could use some help. I'm not sure what else to check.

maxwedge
06-22-2010, 05:58 PM
A noid lite set is 15.00, I 've never seen a 3800 with 60 psi unless the return was pinched off.

senrab
06-27-2010, 08:40 PM
Well just to update.
It starts and runs for almost a second then dies.
I can keep it running on ether.
I have plenty of fuel pressure on the rail.
The security light is not on past the initial key on / dash light check.

I'm certain that it is a sensor shutting down the injectors but don't know what sensor(s) will shutdown the fuel.

I've had several responses and appreciate the input.
Has anyone experienced a similar problem?

Add your comment to this topic!