99 Express 3500 shifting problem

Ive searched but not much info on the express trans problems. I had my fluid changed at about 100,00 just because it was over due. The pumped it out not a drain and fill. There didnt seem to be any problems until maybe 6 months later. When I started out it seemed like I was getting no power. I was trhinking my MAf sensor was dirty and put it off. Then I noticed while on the highway overdrive was not kicking in. I then thought maybe my power problem was that I was not in first gear and sure enough im starting out in second.

This may seem like a stupid question but I was having a shifting issue with my sons Blazer and found it to be the ignition switch. I replaced it and all is fine. Could this be the problem with the van. The only code that has come up is a P0174. Thats what made me think of the Maf sensor. I cleaned that and Ill let you know if that worked it was real dirty. I used Maf Sensor cleaning fluid and a Q tip. The fact its throwing no codes has me wondering. It shifts from second to third with no problem and down shifts with no problem.

I really never payed much attention to the lack of power because I dont drive it hard at all. No towing. 9600 gvw total weight 7600 pounds loaded. So its not overloaded. I would appreciate any help. Thanks

Ive searched but not much info on the express trans problems. I had my fluid changed at about 100,00 just because it was over due. The pumped it out not a drain and fill. There didnt seem to be any problems until maybe 6 months later. When I started out it seemed like I was getting no power. I was trhinking my MAf sensor was dirty and put it off. Then I noticed while on the highway overdrive was not kicking in. I then thought maybe my power problem was that I was not in first gear and sure enough im starting out in second.

This may seem like a stupid question but I was having a shifting issue with my sons Blazer and found it to be the ignition switch. I replaced it and all is fine. Could this be the problem with the van. The only code that has come up is a P0174. Thats what made me think of the Maf sensor. I cleaned that and Ill let you know if that worked it was real dirty. I used Maf Sensor cleaning fluid and a Q tip. The fact its throwing no codes has me wondering. It shifts from second to third with no problem and down shifts with no problem.

I really never payed much attention to the lack of power because I dont drive it hard at all. No towing. 9600 gvw total weight 7600 pounds loaded. So its not overloaded. I would appreciate any help. Thanks

No on ign switch but can be problems from wiring ior fuses or plugins.
First step is get transmission codes.

Code P0174 is for fuel trim on bank 2.

If transmission is starting in second gear it is in fail safe mode.
You need to get it on a transmission/engine capable scanner.
Code readers or OBD11 scanners will not do transmision codes or problems.
Post back and transmission problem and codes from a transmission capable scanner.
And tell us what engine and what transmission and what type of fluid you used in it.

MT-2500
Thanks for the responce. How do I know if a transmission code is even present if the check engine light isnt lit. On my blazer it gives trans codes through the obd II. Is the G30 van not the same? I dont want to spend money to have codes read if there is none. Autozone reads normal obd II but none others. I have the same code reader as Autozone. Thanks for your help. The cleaning of the Maf sensor seems to have solved the P0174 code. Im not sure of trans the fluid was done by the dealer.

MT-2500
Thanks for the responce. How do I know if a transmission code is even present if the check engine light isnt lit. On my blazer it gives trans codes through the obd II. Is the G30 van not the same? I dont want to spend money to have codes read if there is none. Autozone reads normal obd II but none others. I have the same code reader as Autozone. Thanks for your help. The cleaning of the Maf sensor seems to have solved the P0174 code. Im not sure of trans the fluid was done by the dealer.

If it is in fail safe mode it will have transmission codes.
But you need a transmission capable scanner to read out transmission data and transmission codes.

MT-2500
If I disconnect the battery will the codes disappear? I would just like to verify since it does shift fine from second to third and works in reverse. If the codes are removed it should shift one time at least correct ? I thought fail safe or limp mode would not allow it to shift at all except manually and that it would not shift out of second gear. Thanks.

MT-2500
If I disconnect the battery will the codes disappear? I would just like to verify since it does shift fine from second to third and works in reverse. If the codes are removed it should shift one time at least correct ? I thought fail safe or limp mode would not allow it to shift at all except manually and that it would not shift out of second gear. Thanks.

A battery disconnect is the worst thing you can do.
It may or may not shift right after a code clear.
All depends on the problem.
Code may reset as soon as key is turned on or after it is driven and the problems occurs.

That limp mode in second gear only pertains to chrysler transmissions.:lol2:

Even on them all codes can not be erased by battery disconnect.

Limp mode on GM only reduces transmission functions and the transmission should not be driven very far in limp or major damage to transmission can happen.
Before we can help you.
You need to get codes and post back codes.
Allso transmission data and shift data and slippage data readings helps.
And tell us what transmission and engine you have.

MT-2500 (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/member.php?u=382930)
AF - Advisor

Thanks again. I just had a shop read the cods and a shift solenoid code was stored. He wouldnt tell me which one. He said there were 2 solenoids. I read that there was a kit with both solenoids and a valve body filter and bracket. The trans is a 480E or is it a 4l80e . The motor is a 5.7 litre. He quoted me $275.00 to replace the solenoid. The biggest problem I have is dropping the pan. The mess because there is no drain plug. If I do it Ill add one. Iwould appreciate your opinion. Thanks

MT-2500 (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/member.php?u=382930)
AF - Advisor

Thanks again. I just had a shop read the cods and a shift solenoid code was stored. He wouldnt tell me which one. He said there were 2 solenoids. I read that there was a kit with both solenoids and a valve body filter and bracket. The trans is a 480E or is it a 4l80e . The motor is a 5.7 litre. He quoted me $275.00 to replace the solenoid. The biggest problem I have is dropping the pan. The mess because there is no drain plug. If I do it Ill add one. Iwould appreciate your opinion. Thanks

Just throwing parts at it may not the answer to your problem.
First you need the code no.
And then go threw the repair flow chart for the code.
There is about 4 shift solenoids codes.
Two are for the solenoids and 2 are for electrical circuit problem.
You may have either or both.
Does the kit have the wiring with solenoids?

MT-2500
Just found out that kit was for a4t80e. No it doesnt come with wiring. I located those online. The intrnal and external were like $85.00 solenoids about $16.00 a piece. Obviousley if they diagnose it that far for me I may as well pay them to do the job. They read the codes for free. The mechanic said he almost sure it would only be the solenoid but once over 100,00 miles it is possible the valve body would need replacing. If that was the case he would almost reccomend a re-build. He did say most problems with this trans was related to solenoid or wiring though. Thanks

MT-2500
Just found out that kit was for a4t80e. No it doesnt come with wiring. I located those online. The intrnal and external were like $85.00 solenoids about $16.00 a piece. Obviousley if they diagnose it that far for me I may as well pay them to do the job. They read the codes for free. The mechanic said he almost sure it would only be the solenoid but once over 100,00 miles it is possible the valve body would need replacing. If that was the case he would almost reccomend a re-build. He did say most problems with this trans was related to solenoid or wiring though. Thanks

You need to follow the code and repair flow chart for that code.
Good Luck

MT-2500
Well I replaced the 2 shift solenoids. I know it was probabley just the 1 to 2 that was bad but as long as I was in there I replaced both. They wer only $14.28 a piece, I also replaced the filter and the fluid obviousley. The pan was real clean. Intersting thing is there was no magnet inside the pan. That solved the shifting problem.

MT-2500
We all appreciate your help with things but not everyone can go out and buy the necessary diagnostic equiptment. People come hear because they dont have the tools or knowledge. My advice for what its worth is to give them the advice to get something diagnosed or buy the necessary testing equiptment but if they cant then explain possible solutions. In my case you told me to have the codes read go through flow charts. If I had a shop do that they would charge me and then the parts and all would leave me at the same price. While I would like a transmission scanner I'm not going to shell out $3000. for a scanner. Doing searches on the 4l80e trans came up with a lot of shift solenoid problems. I had a code for a shift solenoid. In all likely hood the shift solenoid was the problem or the wiring to the solenoid.
Again you do answer a lot of peoples posts and we all appreciate that. You obviosley own a shop or work at one that has the equiptment. I got out of the buisness in the middle 70s before any real testing equiptment was around short of a scope and dwell tach timing light etc. Ive kept most my cars going well over 200,000 miles but I still need advice so Thanks

MT-2500
Well I replaced the 2 shift solenoids. I know it was probabley just the 1 to 2 that was bad but as long as I was in there I replaced both. They wer only $14.28 a piece, I also replaced the filter and the fluid obviousley. The pan was real clean. Intersting thing is there was no magnet inside the pan. That solved the shifting problem.

MT-2500
We all appreciate your help with things but not everyone can go out and buy the necessary diagnostic equiptment. People come hear because they dont have the tools or knowledge. My advice for what its worth is to give them the advice to get something diagnosed or buy the necessary testing equiptment but if they cant then explain possible solutions. In my case you told me to have the codes read go through flow charts. If I had a shop do that they would charge me and then the parts and all would leave me at the same price. While I would like a transmission scanner I'm not going to shell out $3000. for a scanner. Doing searches on the 4l80e trans came up with a lot of shift solenoid problems. I had a code for a shift solenoid. In all likely hood the shift solenoid was the problem or the wiring to the solenoid.
Again you do answer a lot of peoples posts and we all appreciate that. You obviosley own a shop or work at one that has the equiptment. I got out of the buisness in the middle 70s before any real testing equiptment was around short of a scope and dwell tach timing light etc. Ive kept most my cars going well over 200,000 miles but I still need advice so Thanks

Yes I operate a repair shop and do have most of the diagnostic equipment.
And started back in the early 1960.

But no way Am I going to tell people to start throwing parts at in just in the hope of fixing it.

But I do try to help if the give all of the information and systems.

And it hurts every time I have to tell people you need to get it on a capable scanner to find the problem to do a proper fix.
But that is the only way to do a proper fix.

Even back in the 1960 you needed some test equipment and repair info to fix them right.
Since then and when computers hit us in the rear around 1980 up some people got the idea that you can just start throwing parts at it and get it fixed.

But just look at the wasted parts and time and money a lot of them used up.

Back then and now you need proper testing and info to get the problem fixed.

In you case you did get the code and hit it luckier on replacing the right part.

But read this post.
And there is a lot more on here like it if you do a search.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=1017025

Quote
i have a 1999 s-10 zr2. it will start and idle fine, but whenever i put the truck into gear it will stall. i have replaced the following parts: tps, map sensor, ignition control module, plugs, wires, coil, cap, distributor, battery, and fuel pump. i am running out of money to throw away, please help asap!!!
End of quote
Now.
How much money and time could they have saved with some proper testing?

I know a lot people can not afford the proper testing equipment.
But there is a lot of parts places that even give a free diagnostic and read codes and a lot of repair shops the will check codes and computer system for a small fee.

MT-2500
Your right in the case you just sighted it would have made a lot of sense to spend $100. to $125.00 to have a diagnosis done and get the actual cause of the problem. There are times though that it is not a bad thing to throw money at something. People tend to ignore their vehicles unless there is a problem. If someone has a ten year old vehicle and they have never changed plugs cap rotor wires fuel filter or even a sensor it is time to do these things anyways. Preventative repairs that should have been done anyways. Or in my case if I had gone and replaced my transmission as some have done or in the case of my blazer with a bad ignition switch that caused trans problem it would have been crazy to do that. It didnt hurt to throw the extra $28.00 at the trans because probability was very good it was the shift solenoid. Certain vehicles have problems inherent to that vehicle. I have a Windstar. the 3.8 litre has a problem with egr ports getting clogged so when a person comes up with a code for egr I would be 99 percent sure it was clogged egr ports.
Like I said I appreciate the time you spend answering all these questions for everyone. I certanley dont want to spend anymore money then necessary but also realize that on an older vehicle you will probabley be replacing it later.

Perfect example. My heater hose had asmall hole in it it would drip under the car I couldnt for the life of me figure where it was comeing from. When I replaced my alternator I lifted the one hose a little and I saw Dexcool come from underneath. I didnt just replace the hose that was bad I replaced all of them all. If I hadnt been fooling with the alternator I would have replaced them anyways because they were old. Hope you understand what im saying. Thanks

MT-2500
Your right in the case you just sighted it would have made a lot of sense to spend $100. to $125.00 to have a diagnosis done and get the actual cause of the problem. There are times though that it is not a bad thing to throw money at something. People tend to ignore their vehicles unless there is a problem. If someone has a ten year old vehicle and they have never changed plugs cap rotor wires fuel filter or even a sensor it is time to do these things anyways. Preventative repairs that should have been done anyways. Or in my case if I had gone and replaced my transmission as some have done or in the case of my blazer with a bad ignition switch that caused trans problem it would have been crazy to do that. It didnt hurt to throw the extra $28.00 at the trans because probability was very good it was the shift solenoid. Certain vehicles have problems inherent to that vehicle. I have a Windstar. the 3.8 litre has a problem with egr ports getting clogged so when a person comes up with a code for egr I would be 99 percent sure it was clogged egr ports.
Like I said I appreciate the time you spend answering all these questions for everyone. I certanley dont want to spend anymore money then necessary but also realize that on an older vehicle you will probabley be replacing it later.

Perfect example. My heater hose had asmall hole in it it would drip under the car I couldnt for the life of me figure where it was comeing from. When I replaced my alternator I lifted the one hose a little and I saw Dexcool come from underneath. I didnt just replace the hose that was bad I replaced all of them all. If I hadnt been fooling with the alternator I would have replaced them anyways because they were old. Hope you understand what im saying. Thanks

Yes I do.

Old preventive mantiance would be good for a lot of people and help keep ther vechicals gooing good without many problem.
But I have saw it go by the way side starting with the 100K tune up cars and throw way models.